Belefonte (or whatever the new name will be) is looking good!:sombrero:
Woo Freakin Hoo! I finally got my D60 hung and sweet baby jesus was that an ordeal. I loaded it in the bed of my truck easy enough using a tow motor at my shop, but getting it out of my truck was fun. I muscled that bugger out that hard way, IE by hand with a ********-pot full of gruntin and groanin.
A $100-$150 engine hoist is cheaper than a visit to the ER or back surgery! Engine hoist/crane is very helpful around the shop, not just for hoisting engines.
Drives like crap! It's a slug. I had my doubts the 4.10s were going to cut it with the 37s and it seems I was right. I'm thinking 4.56 or 4.88. Might wait and see a bit before I pull the trigger on that, but I'm expecting a gear change.
I decided to leave the rear wheel wells as is, except I pulled the flairs and I don't think they'll be going back on. All yours Pat.
No reason to cut the rear wheel wells unless you are rubbing at full stuff. Stock ambo wheelwell looks better IMHO
It's a slug! Man those 37s killed it. Pretty sure 4.10s are whats in it and I'm thinking 4.56/4.88.
Mine goes pretty good with the 37's and 4:10's
Maybe the turbo is the big difference.
Same here, I have 4.10s and 37s (BFG KM2) and feel like it has plenty of low end grunt, cruises 70MPH@ 2000 RPM...I could even run a larger tire or even run 3.55s to drop RPM a bit, but I like the lower gears for off-road...but I've got 7.3 Powerstroke and ZF 5 speed. I would think with 4.56/4.88 you'd be screaming at highway speed.
Could be the slushbox too, Automatics suck the power. Is it E4OD?
Maybe add a turbo before you change gears?
Drove it to the alignment shop which was scary as hog snot. Thing was WAY out of whack. Not as scary as after the alignment shop though. Seemed great till I hit the first good bump at about 45 mph and then death wobble that almost had me in the ditch. BAD. Second worst I've ever experienced. I know they set the toe at essentially nuetral which is what they say factory specs call for on that model year F-350(what the axle came from) but I just heard back from Chris that he recommends .125 total toe. I took it back and had them hook up the track bar. I didnt do that myself because I could have swore I read in the instructions, or saw in the videos, that you should drive it just a bit and then install it. Might have screwed the pooch on that one.
So they installed the track bar and so far its golden. I white knuckled my way across some pot holes here and there and no wobble. I'm still going to go back and have them readjust that toe, but so far seems the track bar did the trick.
What's your caster set at?
Yep, death wobble is no joke. Chris says the 6" needs a trackbar. In theory, a leafsprung suspension should not need a trackbar to locate the axle, but even some Ford SuperDuties came with track bar and leaf springs. Glad the trackbar cured the death wobble. :beer:
Over in Chris' UJOR thread, there's a few posts on the different thread pitch for 4 wheel ABS vs rear wheel ABS unit bearing hubs.
I could picture doing something along these lines. It avoids what to me is the hard part of painting one of these and that's once you start climbing up over the hood/cab, and get too high up the box getting into all the lights. The lower section is easier to reach and requires way less masking. Not too sure about the black. Looking a little too County Sheriff I think.
