Bend It Like Texas

spoof

New member
Hello all. I’m new to your forum. I do the majority of my kicking around on motorcycles, so I’m a long time advrider.com junkie, but have just recently become more interested in doing some knocking around in my truck, a 95.5 Tacoma, which is my only four-wheeled conveyance. It serves as a work truck, junk hauler, night-on-the-town mobile, taxi/u-haul for friends and, hopefully from now on, a passable, if not necessarily aggressive, expedition rig. Congratulations on such a well-maintained site and a friendly and helpful group of participants: the portal appears to be an exceptional community. Rather than introduce myself with a series of bumbling questions (which I’m sure will come eventually), I thought I’d try to wade in proper with a trip report.

I spent two months over the winter on an unforgettable adventure through Mexico and Guatemala on my trusty DRZ 400 Suzuki dual-sport motorcycle. There are sixty typewritten pages of travel journal to accompany that voyage, but I’ll spare you guys that agony…at least until we know each other better.
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Such a luxurious amount of vacation demanded that I trade in my fly-by-night freelancer’s hat on return to the States and settle into a more regular gig for a while. With a new full-time job starting in a couple weeks, I had little alternative but to pack up the truck, grab my friend Katherine, and head to Big Bend for a few days.

First, however, I was going to have to solve a couple of problems. I don’t have a topper and, especially as I just had to drop a bunch of money on new suspension components (an OME set-up that would be waiting for me on my return), I’d rather spend the cash on fuel and good eating. Still, I needed some secure gear stowage in the bed of the truck. I also needed a platform to lay out my truck sized paco pad for comfortable nights under the stars. A quick perusal of this site revealed that many members have solved these issues in ways far more elegant that I ever will, but stealing some basic ideas solved both problems for me. And, yeah, maybe the tiny stuffed animals and the gas can combine in some way for target practice and maybe not. I'll never tell.

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A few years ago, when driving a vintage Chevy van back to New Mexico from Seattle with a friend, (It was red with black flames. Seriously.) we stopped at the Boeing Surplus Yard and, like greedy, over-sized apes with credit cards, bought all the kinds of things that a man needs to buy in a place like that: Oversized nuts and bolts, bizarre bearing assemblies, airplane windows, ridiculously proportioned specialty wrenches, spools of stainless wire and few hundred square feet of diamond plate aluminum. So I grabbed my remaining aluminum, a couple of 2 x 10s and a couple cheap tool boxes and put together a sleeping platform with some decent storage. Locking bin section up toward the cab, locking tailgate at the back and the two toolboxes all provide enough security to keep good men honest, as they say.

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Schedules demanded that we leave around midday on a Friday, but that suited our circuitous route toward Big Bend just fine. We started by driving east past Albuquerque. At Casa Blanca, almost due south from Mt. Taylor, we turned toward Acoma Pueblo, sometimes called “Sky City” because of it’s prominent, mesa-top situation. *Not my photo of Mt. Taylor: Photo by D. Arnold.

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Acoma is in a dramatic and beautiful valley, full of rocky outcroppings and tantalizing geological formations, but the tribe allows no photos, at least not without ponying up for a permit. Pardon me for being stingy.

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spoof

New member
Frontage road ruin:
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We traveled highway frontage along Interstate 40 until we could drop down on the 53 toward El Malpais National Monument. I’ve been past these volcanic badlands several times on the paved 117 route, but never taken the Chain of Craters Back Country Byway that charts the western edge of the monument. We turned south just past the Bandera Volcano and Ice Caves. Persistent mud from snow melt and a fabulous red clay road made for 4-high conditions just a couple miles in. But I didn’t have so much traction that I couldn’t drift a bit through open corners with a good sight line and little danger of compromising the integrity of the road surface for others. It’s a beautiful stretch of road to drive at an enthusiastic but responsible pace. We were soon slowed, however, by the afternoon sun breaking apart on huge expanses of jagged volcanic rock. Even among Pine and Juniper trees, the ground was covered entirely in sharp and angular moments of frozen heat, bubbles, fissures and sagging flow visible everywhere.

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Knowing that we wanted to make it a good ways into West Texas the following day, we didn’t want to lose ourselves entirely in the Malpais expanse—although it certainly put out a stirring siren call—and we settled on a short hike to the Big Sky Cave in the Big Tubes area. The whole place is littered with lava tubes. I’d visited such tubes as a teen-ager and they had always been relatively small, the kind of thing where you were lucky to be able to stand upright after crawling on your belly for 20 feet with bats beating about your head. I didn’t know what to expect from “big tubes,” so I was stunned when we came upon Caterpillar Collapse, a stretch of fallen tube, and saw an arch that must have been a good 25 feet above the collapse floor. After climbing down into the canyon that it formed, it was clear that the existing cave was gigantic. Katherine is in some of these pictures, which gives a sense of scale.

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I’ve lived just a few hours from here for almost 18 years and just had never gotten around to checking it out. I immediately resolved (again) to be more diligent about exploring the treasures that are nearby, rather than always fixating on exotic trips to far away places.

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About 30 or 40 yards into the cave, light poured in from an almost perfectly circular collapse in the ceiling.

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The area below was covered in snow and ice, with startling protrusion of rock and an eerie, fine moss.

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There was quite a bit a scat and guano at various points, as well as one significant nest on a cavern wall.

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While Katherine too more photographs, I wandered farther back into the cave to the point where I could stand in complete darkness and feel my breath begin to grow heavy with anxiety and exertion. Soon Katherine joined me. I don’t know that the cave went much further, but it dropped in elevation and took a sharp turn past the point at which we stood. We didn’t have hard-hats, ropes or back-up light sources, so we turned around at that point. We stayed in the cavern for quite a while, marveling at its similarities to cathedral architecture, the expansive, inspirational spaces that it created. It was a pity there was no choir to sing, or a least a lone cellist tucked into some deep corner, to belt out the kind of somber, introspective tones that the space seemed to cry out for. After all, if Robert Doisneau could put a cellist on a mountain in 1957...

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As the light tucked low into the sky, we hoofed back to the truck and drove a bit farther south before pulling over to camp just off a little side road. Tomorrow, the goal is Marfa, Texas along county roads and blue highways. The day after, a first visit to Big Bend for both of us. I'll try to make it exciting and to become a better photographer over the next couple days...er...
 

Spikepretorius

Explorer
Stunning photos. I love the one with the two frames.

Regarding that signboard. Can they seriously stop you from taking a photo or is that that just attempted bullying?
 
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preacherman

Explorer
spoof, welcome.

Big bend is one of my top 3 places, Santa Fe is another one so glad to see someone who likes both here on the portal.
 

Ursidae69

Traveller
Welcome fellow New Mexican. :sombrero: Nice pics of El Mapais, been there once myself and plan to go back.

spikepretorius said:
Regarding that signboard. Can they seriously stop you from taking a photo is that that just attempted bullying?

It's tribal land, they can do whatever they want really.
 
spoof said:
I’ve lived just a few hours from here for almost 18 years and just had never gotten around to checking it out. I immediately resolved (again) to be more diligent about exploring the treasures that are nearby, rather than always fixating on exotic trips to far away places.

Ive lived out here for a long while now, and I feel the exact same way... Texas is so big, with so many great places ive never been to. This was the reason I was inspired this summer...something in me.... its deffinetly on this summer:sunflower :tent:
 

spoof

New member
Thanks for the encouraging comments. Got busy at work and it slowed up the narrative flow, but I'll able to post more by tomorrow morning.

As to the Acoma photography restriction...I guess it's more like respecting that they asked. I suppose if I didn't want people taking pictures of my home, I'd want them to respect that. I don't know who'd want those pictures...:Wow1:
 

spoof

New member
We woke into crisp, pre-sunrise light searing the eastern horizon while stars still played against the darker west. A thin coating of frost covered the sleeping bags, but we were warm and comfortable atop the new sleeping platform. Packing was quick, and we chose coffee and fruit as a light breakfast, knowing that Pie Town would be on today’s route and that large helping’s would be in order. Somehow, though, between enjoying that coffee, the rising sun and the expansive Malpais, it was 10 am before we fired up the truck and swung south—a bit of a late start for the length of today’s trek, but enjoying ourselves is more important than maintaining schedules or fixating on destinations.

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The road soon swung west of the national monument and into the Malpais wilderness, open plains of ranch land, dotted with a profusion of low, volcanic rises, the remanants from molten bubbles where steam and fire once poured forth. Our copy of New Mexico Roadside Geology explained that much the eruptions were so recent (around 1,000 years ago) that Native American stories about entire valleys of fire might well be true. Just imagining standing on a ridgetop and looking down upon this valley while it was in the throes of constant volcanic upheaval is extraordinary. I can only dumbly wonder what it must have been to actually see.

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A few miles east on the 117 and we are again off on an unpaved county road, with the dramatic Sawtooth range filling the horizon while a plate of pie looms on the horizon. The road is in well-graded, good condition, but it is still noon by the time we settle into diner chairs and split a cheeseburger and two heaping pie wedges, one cleverly made with spicy green chile and piñon nuts. Then it’s west toward Socorro. Between Datil and the Very Large Array, we pass the northwestern plain of the dramatic and expansive Plains of San Agustin.

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The VLA itself is one of the world’s most significant radio astronomy facilities, with the massive “ears” able to be position along railway tracks in tight configurations or over a huge distance. The bigger the distance the greater the size of the effective “dish.” A full time crew of mechanics keeps the intricate hydraulic systems on each ear operating in perfect order, so that minute adjustments may be made. For anyone who is unfamiliar with this area, there are a number of exceptional and scenic dirt roads and small tracks that branch out, exploring the Sawtooths, the Gila Wilderness, etc.

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At Socorro we have the option of shooting down the interstate, through El Paso and on to Marfa, but, well, why the hell would we do that? Better to stay on the blue highways and the unique views of America provided along such byways. In all kinds of weird forms.

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spoof

New member
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We stopped briefly at the famous Owl Bar in San Antonio, New Mexico, just north of the Bosque del Apache wildlife refuge and famed bird migratory flyway. We sucked down, uh, the atmosphere, as there’s still a lot of road to cover, and keep west on highway 380, across the entrance to Trinity Site (where the first atomic bomb was detonated), through the Valley of Fires State Park (another volcanic flow, now marked with a profusion of Yucca) and into the historic town of Lincoln, famous for the Lincoln County War and as the stomping grounds of Billy the Kid.

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At UFO capital Roswell, we stock up on bacon because, well, we were driving around without it, which seemed alarming and unfortunate. Plus the butcher shop had a meat hook/carcass gantry in the back.

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A turn south onto 285 takes us quickly down to Carlsbad, where we again head west, past the entrance to Carlsbad Caverns, into Texas and into the beautiful Guadalupe Mountains, etched with western desert grandeur in the fading sunlight. Going south into West Texas is equally beautiful, but as the sun drops altogether, the road becomes littered with rabbits. After counting about 35 of them in the span of a few miles and several near misses…THUNK. A bummer.

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One of these days I’ll learn how to bleed, skin and dress things properly, so that these mishaps can lead to a meal instead of a weird photography session. But for now it was off the road and over the fence as an unexpected treat for coyotes and vultures. We creep toward Marfa at about 55 which seems to be the max speed for avoiding the execution of any more cuddly critters.

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Just outside Marfa, which has become a major center for contemporary art since the involvement of minimalist sculptor, Donald Judd, there’s a sculpture piece done in jest to poke fun at all the ritzy city-dwellers that have swarmed the quiet ranching and farming community. It’s a Prada shoe store on a barren stretch of road, just outside Lovington, by artist Luke Warm.

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Friends are waiting with a hot meal and a cozy guest bed. Tomorrow: Strange art, lunch in Mexico and, finally, the wilds of Big Bend.
 
good read so far, but dont worry bout them there jack rabbits, thems not good eatin anyways, and they are everywhere lik locasts in a crop field.:gunt: YEEEHHAA, lol
 

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