Its not in the blade. Its in the circuit board 100%. Works with proximity. You can take the blade off and stick it in. If the remote is not in proximity it will not start
Best place to order OEM LR3 keys
- Thread starter Victory_Overland
- Start date
I was wrong and I found the proof!
If the shop manual is to be believed...
So the transponder is on the PCB and is also how the charging works. Very cool. The blade and board are not electrically linked.
I will update earlier posts to reflect my error.
Although... he could still replace the mangled fob with a new case and it should work just fine. The wet key is shot if the PCB is shot.
EDIT: BPUtah Sells blank (not programmed) keys/fobs. At least one driver on another forum managed to save a few pesos going this route. You could even save a few more swapping your key blades if inclined.
Cheers,
Ian
If the shop manual is to be believed...
So the transponder is on the PCB and is also how the charging works. Very cool. The blade and board are not electrically linked.
I will update earlier posts to reflect my error.
Although... he could still replace the mangled fob with a new case and it should work just fine. The wet key is shot if the PCB is shot.
EDIT: BPUtah Sells blank (not programmed) keys/fobs. At least one driver on another forum managed to save a few pesos going this route. You could even save a few more swapping your key blades if inclined.
Cheers,
Ian
Last edited:
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Thanks for all the research everyone. And no worries and thanks for correcting your post Ian, I think we are all learning something about the mighty LR keys.
I'm waiting to hear back from my local stealership in Honolulu and see what the price is. I'd rather not have to crack a new key I just bought only to make it exposed to another wet ride. :snorkel:
Victory_Overland
Explorer
On a side note... that's too bad that the LR3 key didn't make it through the washing machine. These keys were advertised as being waterproof, so you could drop it in a lake (or your soda...), fish it out and it would work just fine. Guess the spin cycle is too much for it though.Once you get your new keys, I wouldn't hesitate to try and repair the FOB of your old one if you have the time/inclination.
Also, while buying a key off of eBay will not start your car, you CAN buy a blank off of eBay, have it cut, and then stick it in a magnet mount box underneath your car. This works really well because it will unlock your doors in case you every lock your keys in the car, but it will not start the car. So, a thief could never find it and drive off with your car. You might want to consider doing with with your dead FOB Victory.
Great advice on all. I surely will
After having some good club members sacrifice a small array of antennas (CB) in an effort to get back into my truck (I awoke excited for a day of wheeling. Jumped out the back and slammed the door shut with my keys inside.) I resolved to keeping a key in an inaccessible location. My already damaged fob is apart on the desk as I was setting about making a small box or mount for just the blade. I had incorrectly understood that I'd be able to start my truck with the blade - so now I'm going to put it back together after soldering in a new battery and conceal the whole fob.
crap
crap
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Honolulu Dealer Quote
Got a call back last night from the Honolulu Landy STEALERSHIP! They quoted me at roughly $650 and some change for a new key and program.
Looks like I shall start making the calls on other member's recommendations.
Ridiculous.
Got a call back last night from the Honolulu Landy STEALERSHIP! They quoted me at roughly $650 and some change for a new key and program.
Looks like I shall start making the calls on other member's recommendations.
Ridiculous.
DVD
Adventurer
From my post #3:
I thought I lost a set and recently found them. Best I could find is here (but I found the key&fob so didn't order):
http://parts.landroverpalmbeach.com/...E500051SW.html
$250 or so for a real key and fob from a real dealer. Then you should be able to use your IID tool to do the programming.
As mentioned, I found my lost key, so didn't have to go this route, but it seems like it should save some $$.
Good luck!
I thought I lost a set and recently found them. Best I could find is here (but I found the key&fob so didn't order):
http://parts.landroverpalmbeach.com/...E500051SW.html
$250 or so for a real key and fob from a real dealer. Then you should be able to use your IID tool to do the programming.
As mentioned, I found my lost key, so didn't have to go this route, but it seems like it should save some $$.
Good luck!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Just ordered 1 x key from LR Palm Beach. Out the door for the new factory key is $285. I'm sure I will get a bit more for shipping to Hawaii but as stated before, well under the HNL LR cost here.
I probably need 2 x keys as my rubber case on the spare is cracking as well but figured I would attempt to buy and program one key first on my own before I drop $500 on two new paperweights...hahahaha
Thanks again for all the help everyone. I'll provide updates as I run through this process.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Sorry about that. Here is the link. For over the phone and online orders you need to email registration or title with two forms of photo ID for verification. Factory mails the key directly to you once the VIN is verified at the dealer.
http://parts.landroverpalmbeach.com/p/Key-Transmitter/48673116/CWE500051SW.html
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Key showed up, put my one good key in for the IID Tool load up. Ran through the "Key Program" sequence on the tool. Super easy, one key at a time and done in 3 minutes.
I'll be ordering another key a few months down the road since my now spare and only remaining is cracking as well.
I'll be ordering another key a few months down the road since my now spare and only remaining is cracking as well.