Best value Suburban as an all arounder

[upcruiser]

Looking for some feedback, primarily from folks with experience with Burbs. We are considering getting rid of our FJ Cruiser to both get rid of a car payment AND to replace it with something with more interior space that can tow. My only experience with full size Chevys was a new 2005 1500 Silverado crew cab that I put around 100,000 miles with.

It had a few issues but I appreciated the fact that it could do most everything pretty well and still squeeze out 20mpg on the highway.

Looking around for an inexpensive large SUV I keep coming back to the Burbs. I keep finding 150,000ish mile examples of '95-'99's that look clean for around 3k. From what I have read the 5.7 Vortec is a great motor that tows better than the 5.3 Burbs. From my research I see the following things to consider between the pre 2000 and the post 2000 Suburbans....

Pre:
More truck like ride with rear leaf springs
Better towing because of leaf springs and torquey 5.7
Slightly worse fuel economy
Available with diesel in 3/4 AND half ton models
Issues with intake manifold gaskets on the 96-99's with the Vortec 5.7
Older so more wear and tear in general

Post:
5.3 has some issues with cylinder head casting for the first few model years and piston slap
A nicer ride with coil springs in the back.
Better economy on the highway
5.3 makes power higher in the rev range so not quite as good as a tow rig.
More amenities but also more gizmos to break on the interior.
Available auto locker on half ton models

The towing I am needing is to pull our 23', 4,100lb camper and to tow occasional lumber supplies and possibly a race car from time to time. It would be used for road trips with a growing fam in the future with 2 kids, 2 adults and a dog. Off-road will be kept to two tracks and forest service tracks, nothing technical.

I am thinking I don't need the heavier duty 2500 series but maybe it would pay for itself with extra long term durability? He trade off is mileage though it seems. I am leaning a bit more towards a pre 2000 just for the affordable price of entry, seems like a great value. Or is it worth spending a few grand more and getting a newer Burb?

We are trying to keep the price down though and buy something for cash. It seems like Suburbans are the best values out there but being a long term Toyota guy I just don't have much experience with them. Thoughts?

 

[upcruiser]

Oh and I hear that the 2000-2006 1500's have pretty sub par braking and that the 2500's are much better for towing because of that. I assume that's the same case on the '95-'99's as well?

Seems like all the 3/4 ton engine options are pretty solid too.

 

[njtacoma]

I have two friends that have '99 1500 suburbans, one chevy, one gmc and they each have over 200K on them. There are the usual "little things" about the interior like wear and tear, and window switches and door handles, but the main trucks have been very reliable.

I would get the 2500 personally, the price difference here in Colorado is pretty minimal and although some will disagree with the choice you can find 2500's with the 350 all over here. i'm really tempted by the 454, but keep telling myself probably wrongly that I will get slightly better mileage with the 350.

My opinion is worth what you paid for it!

 

[DaveNay]

I bought a '99 2500 2WD with the 7.4L engine earlier this spring and I really couldn't be happier. The brakes took a little getting used to with the hydro-boost technology. There has been absolutely nothing that has caused me to wish I had even considered a different truck. I have towed in excess of 8K lbs already and I can say your 5K trailer and gear will not be an issue.

 

[82fb]

I have towed a lot with 4 different burbs. 90 k1500 5.7 auto, 94 k2500 7.4 auto, 98 k1500 5.7 auto, and 01 k2500 8.1 auto. Any of those motors will to fine up to 6k or so. With trailer brakes the half tons tow fine and stop fine up to 6k. If you are regularly towing more than 6k, I would go with the 2500, mainly for the braking, but also for the better cooling system, better transmission, etc.

Almost forgot mpg. 90 around 14, 94 around 10, 98 around 15, and 01 around 11 So yes, the 5.7 gets much better mileage. Now my bil tows his 4k trailer with his 03 k1500 5.3 auto just fine. And when empty gets 19 mpg highway. I would not hesitate to go with the 5.3 for moderate towing.

 

[Sock Puppet]

I had an '06 1500 Crew Cab 4X4 truck with the 5.3 for a company wagon for over 100K. Had some small issues, but nothing major. I was always very pleased with the towing performance up to 7.5K pounds or so, so I wouldn't rule out the newer ones based on a perceived difference in towing.

 

[kojackJKU]

I have a 2005 suburban z71. Its really good for a family mover. I have the torsions cranked in the front to level it up, and to stiffen the front end. The suspension is like pudding from the factory. Horrible actually. I am installing airlift in the rear for carrying heavy loads, and putting on 285s. I also put on Monroe reflex monotube shocks and the rig drives MUCH better with those. Most of my other issues is the fact that the rig sits for months at a time and is not used. I have to get it going this week and drive it for a bit. Plus its my plow vehicle, I am very careful and do not tear the crap out of it.

I love the size for hauling the family off and on road.

 

[1leglance]

with all that towing how about a burb with the 6.5 turbo diesel??

I have a 70 burb with a 350 gasser and I love it...don't tow but for everything else we do it is a great rig for camping and around town.

 

[1meanz]

--Do you plan on any lift in the future? If so I'd say the leaf sprung trucks will get the nod.


--Be carefull when shopping for 3/4 ton models. If you're paying the extra, make sure it has the 4L80 trans and NOT the 4L60. I'm not certain that all 5.7L equipped 2500 'burbs got the 4L80.


--The "auto locker" found in ANY of the 'burbs mentioned is absolute junk, unless you get the 3/4 ton with the 10.5" full float rear axle. The Gov Lock in the 9.5" semi floater and the half ton 8.5/8.6 rear axle is complete garbage and shouldn't be trusted.


--Similar goes for the front differential. I'm not certain if all 2500 burbs got the bigger 9.25 front diff. I like that better because there is a limited slip available for it in the aftermarket, and the half shafts are much stronger and you're less likely to break them if you run larger tires and crank the torsion bars up a bit. The half tons with the 8.25 front diffs like to break front half shafts with big tires, too much torsion bar crank and a heavy right foot. I haven't broken any yet, but I wheel gently and with common sense, plus my truck is lifted properly.


--The earlier GMT400 burbs will likely have the manual NP241 transfer case with the lever on the floor. I don't really care for the later GMT400s with the push button NP243 or the push button autotrac NP246 found in GMT400 and 800 trucks, largely because I don't like relying on electronics to get into 4x4. The original NP246 in my Tahoe failed catastrophically at 208k miles, but in that time it always went into 4x4 when i needed it to. I've since upgraded to the NP241 and a Posi-loc cable to manually engage the front diff.


--The brakes on the half ton GMT800 trucks (00-06) is far superior to the half ton GMT400 trucks (88-99)


--The 5.7 is more torquey and handles the suburban at part throttle than the 5.3. However when you go WOT and the 5.3 gets wound up, the 5.3 has more pep. I've towed with both and don't think there is a clear winner. I give the 5.7 the nod because I don't feel like I'm beating on it to make a big heavy suburban move briskly at part throttle.


--GMT800 trucks seem to wear out front wheel bearings much faster than GMT400s do, I have no idea why. GMT800 half ton trucks also have an issue with rusting brake lines and the rear brake backing plates always rot off. The rocker panels also seem to rust out sooner than the GMT400s do. The exterior door handles will probably eventually break on he GMT400, easy to replace. Both platforms will need a fuel pump every 150k miles or so.


--I've owned and been around many of these trucks, I don't think there is a clear winner. I have a 98 Tahoe that I really like and would probably give the GMT400 the nod because I think they look more truck like, and I know them better.


--I'll muddy the water and ask if you've considered a Tahoe or regular Yukon over a Suburban or Yukon XL. How much space do you need? There is no such thing as a 3/4 ton Tahoe (although you can do what I did and turn it into one) so if you end up deciding you want a 3/4 ton, you'll be in a Suburban for sure.

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Drive em both and compare.

I thought I wanted a late-90s 454, til I drove a couple. They just seemed tired. Maybe they were, maybe I could have found another one I liked better.

But when I drove an 02 with the 496, I was sold. That 8.1 will flat MOVE.


I know you're not looking big-block, and I'm not trying to talk you into one. I'm just saying you can do all the research you want, but you won't really know what you want until you get your butt in the seat.

$0.02

Robert

 

[Erik N]

The square body burbs were really towing machines only in 2wd trim, w/ 454 and bigger brakes.

Mid 90's came w/ 454 and brakes to match, plus 4x4.

I have one of each.

 

[brushogger]

I loved my 99 4wd. Only issues were one transfer case shift motor, and had the intake gaskets done 3 times in 225k miles.

 

[Kaisen]

I've owned both styles, and both 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton in both styles. 5.7 and 7.4 in the older -- 5.3, 6.0, and 8.1 in the newer. All 4x4.

I'd buy based on what you happen to come across in the marketplace. Buy a nice truck at a good price, regardless of which one. You'll stumble across the right find. In other word, there's not a clear 'winner' between years, versions, or powertrains. A 5,000 pound load that you'll tow a handful of times each year isn't going to be a big consideration. Even fuel economy **in my experience** isn't a big difference. I get 15-16 mpg on the freeway with my 8.1L with 3.73 gearing, and got 17-18 with my best 5.3 with 3.42 gearing. For the average daily driver, that 2mpg delta would be 10 gallons per month. Not as big a deal as buying the right truck, in the right condition, for the right value.

I'm very, very happy with my 2003 8.1L, even after more than a quarter million miles. It's been a great truck.

 

[plumber mike]

Every blazer or tahoe I've had has come up short at some time or another. Pun intended
For me.....

Anything pre 72 is off the charts cool......not so much a daily driver without some careful restomods.

Pre 91 is a different league of truck. Tough as nails. I like the 96-99 best for the street chores(and street truck look....until I drove an 8.1.....now I want that.

Currently looking for a 3/4 ton with 8.1 to replace f350 and a 2010 or newer gmc with a 6.2 to replace the tahoe. I let a NNBS 3/4 ton slip away because the wife said it felt too much like a truck, but found middle ground with a half ton 6.2.......hard to find around here
Larry's polar bear......that's the suburban right there. I love my 90. It has earned it's keep. I finally swapped out the original clutch this year:coffeedrink:

 

[upcruiser]

Thanks for all the feedback fellas. Alot of good stuff there. First off let me state that I am looking toward the Suburban over the Tahoe primarily for the extra space in the back and the seemingly little hit on mileage for that jump. I need the vehicle to function as a daily driver and tow rig but for longer trips I want to be able to haul mountain bikes inside the back behind the second row seats and out of the weather. I also like the option of building a sleeping platform back there with storage underneath to make for good stealth camping when needed. Being 6' it would be a touch on the short side for me but for my wife and kiddo, it would be fine.

Have I considered the 6.5 diesel, yes, but they aren't as numerous to find and comand a premium price. Coupled with the extra upkeep of a turbo diesel and the fear of an injector pump replacement, I actually prefer a good old fashioned naturally aspirated V8 gasser. My camper tows fine behind my FJ Cruiser so I don't have too much worry behind a 5.3 or a 5.7 definitely not with the 6.0 and big block options. You guys have me intrigued with the 8.1.

I am hoping to keep the price at or under 5K so it can be a cash deal. Again, I want to get out of a car payment so thats a big part of my criteria. The point about buying the best example I can find regardless of spec is a good one. I so far have missed out on 2 clean '99 half tons and am trying to get in touch with a fellow with a 1 owner 2000 LT 1500 that has the full service history and 120,000 miles on the clock. Looks super clean and well cared for. Asking price is $4,900.

If I could find a similar condition and priced 2500 I would probably jump on it without much thought but they tend to be priced a bit higher in this region. Finding something not rusty is tough. I am considering looking to the south or southwest too as I have miles I can use to fly but its a bit of a risk flying in to buy something sight unseen and not sure if I want to gamble on that with a sub $5,000 vehicle.

Seems there are no shortage of Burbs out there but finding some that have been cherished and treated well is a bit tough. Most people tend to use them and abuse them it appears.

Regarding the '92 and earlier Burbs, those are my absolute favorites but I think from a daily driver and comfort standpoint the newer models would be more appealing for family duties, even despite the shortcomings of the IFS. I do have a well built Land Cruiser for doing the more hard core offroad travels so this is more for long road trips, towing, dirt forest tracks. A trip up to Alaska and towing our camper to the west coast next spring are likely in the works for whatever this rig is going to be as well.

I did some towing with a 2002 1500 Burb that was a company vehicle for the US Ski Team when I worked for them. Despite 150,000 miles of abuse and neglect it was a supremely comfortable vehicle on the highway, even with a heavy trailer behind it. The shocks and springs did seem tired though. Hoping a simple shock upgrade would take care of my needs so I don't have to lift it.