Best value Suburban as an all arounder

[justcuz]

2000-2006 are the GMT 800 model. Look for the best maintained vehicle for the money with receipts to back it up. Bad trans will have sluggish shifting and usually dark, dirty fluid. Good ones will sell quick.
Look at a few, if they sell fast, then ones like those are what you look for. Bad cosmetics generally mean the rest of the car was not cared for either. I lucked out once and bought a filthy car that was mechanically solid, but it does not happen often.
Clunks, rattles and squeaks are not common to these cars and indicate trouble.
Sorry I can't be more specific but the usual applies as far as leaks, service records, overall appearance etc.
If you are super concerned ask if you can take it to an independent mechanic, if they agree then usually they have nothing to hide.

 

[TroopThrowback]

Nah, I have a general handle on checking out a car, just wondering if there's something specific about these subs that's not on the list.

Did they come with trans coolers on the 5.3 4x4 models? Or was that only the 6.1/2500 models?


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[justcuz]

Not all of them.
My 5.3 2000 1500 only has a radiator cooler, no external oil cooler for the trans. Others with a tow package may have them though.

 

[TroopThrowback]

Thanks justcuz. Anybody else seen the 5.3 with a trans cooler?


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[TroopThrowback]

And who's got thoughts on or experience with Yukon XL All Wheel Drive systems? To be avoided? Problematic? AWD is not my cup of tea, wondering if anyone knows anything about GM use in the big Burbs.


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[rayra]

'02 K1500 Z71 Suburban and '05 K1500 Z71 Tahoe, both with 5.3L, 4L60E, both with the Tow Package, both have a small trans cooler in addition to the radiator tank, in the same loop. I presume it's trans->cooler->radiator tank->trans.

We've towed various things / weights many times around CA with our Tahoe(s) from surf to mountains and over the vehicle-murdering Grapevine incline. The only inkling of concern was summertime southbound up the steep side of the Grapevine, 106F outside, with a trailered ski boat, kept a good 60mph, windows open, heater blasting for about <10mins. But these vehicles have a 195F thermostat, so it's a very narrow range before you have to take protective / corrective action when under a heavy load. Same drive with a loaded 14' tandem axle uHaul trailer in January, towed it like it wasn't even there, no trouble at all.

The trans cooler is small like they typically are and it is in a ludicrous position behind the Chevy bow tie logo, scarcely bigger than it. At higher speeds it probably isn't getting any direct airflow at all. In fact I'm going to look into relocating it downward. Maybe. Need a remote temp sensor rig so I can measure changes, before I mess with moving it.

This shot is looking up and in from below, bumper to the right, at some of the trans plumbing. The two lines to the right of the cosmetic plastic skid plate (which I need to replace with a real plate) lead to the front-mounted cooler

This shot is looking up towards the sky from below the radiator end tank with the typical GM tank cooler line locations. But more detailed inspection / tracing of lines shows the front cooler is part of the loop.

 

[TroopThrowback]

Wow! Thanks for all the info on the trans coolers and your experience.


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[82fb]

I tow a 10k toyhauler with my 2001 2500 8.1 burb. My tranny temp gauge would show 230-240 going up longer hills, so I looked and found that the stock trans cooler is about 4x10 inches. I swapped in a larger cooler from a 2004 ford f350 diesel which is much larger than I anticipated(21x19 or so) and required rebuilding the core support, but my trans temps rarely go over 210 now.

 

[TroopThrowback]

So I may be coming into a free 1999 k2500 suburban 4x4 with a blown 454 (not supercharged, blown up) and a 1990 454 motor with 80k on it out of an allegro motor home. So I'll be trolling the web for info on motor swaps and emissions stuff. Any help on where to start reading?


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[TroopThrowback]

...and while that deal develops I've struck a deal on a 2006 2500 (HD?) 4x4 suburban with 6.0. 120k in white. It's got some body dings but mechanically checks out. Tranny been rebuilt and transfer case too. It's got the full tow package with trans cooler and digital gauge in the dash.

Electronic trailer brake installed for when I actually get something to tow.

The spec sheet says factory locking rear differential. Who knows about it?

I pick it up this weekend and we'll finally have a real family daily driver to take is the places we so want to go!

I've been searching the too half of this state for six months and this is the first good one I've found that has literally everything I was looking for.


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[justcuz]

Locking rear differential is the G80 gov-lock. It is a centrifigal force/flyweight type limited slip that becomes locked when certain conditions are met. There is a couple of YouTube videos about it. Look them up and watch them.
There are 2 14 bolt rear axles in these years, one is a full floater and the other is a semi float. Both should have rear disc brakes in 2006. The full floater is a stronger axle but both are good axles.

The 1999 Suburban will have a fuel injected engine and the 1990 motor home engine may be carbed. If it is you can swap all the injector engine parts to the motor home engine for a easy swap.

 

[TroopThrowback]

Hey thanks. I'll look up the locker info and get under that diff to figure out my axle too.

I believe this 1990 454 was EFI, if my memory serves. I have read all the later motor items swap directly over too. Easy to "modernize" the earlier motor. That said, I'm believing the actual extraction may prove challenging. Not much online covering it, but it appears that the entire front cowl can be removed on the motor home to facilitate access. That's a long term project, since this 2006 is about to be delivered.

Thanks all, now what homage you guys done to modify your suburbans? Mine will need tires soon. I was thinking of cranking the torsion bars a little in front and mounting something a little oversized since I won't be heavy towing anytime soon (no trailer yet). I want some solid good All Terrains of some brand. It's got the factory alloy 16" wheels. Thoughts and suggestions?


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[justcuz]

Go re read post #88. 1/2 ton keys in a 3/4 ton will help to level it, with out excessive cranking of the torsion bars. 285/75x16 fit easily on stock wheels. 32.5" tire.
Check the glovebox for your axle ratio. You will most likely have 3.73 or 4.10's.
A 14 bolt semi float has a more rounded diff cover, a full float rear axle will be more angular. Once you get it, post a picture and we can tell you what you have. Pulling a hub cover is an easy way to tell also, a full floater will have a set of bolts in the center to hold the axle into the housing. A semi float will look like a bigger version of a 1/2 ton rear axle with a machined end to the axle to center the wheel.

Motor home engine removal should be right out the front once you remove the grille and radiator. It will help to pull the bumper too if it is higher than the bottom of the core support. They are easier if it has a beam axle in front. If it has the factory IFS, you have to raise it for the oil pan to clear the crossmember. For vans and motor homes we usually took off the carb or TBI and set the chain short so the end of the boom is right were the carb or TBI sat.

 

[TroopThrowback]

I'll do so for sure. I take delivery at 10am pacific tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. I'll post up as soon as I can.


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[justcuz]

Ok I will be out of town till Monday but will check in tomorrow night if my motel has wifi.