Big Green 5-ton 6X6 Motorhome build

theburtseoni

Observer
I started out with a low mileage (14,700) 1971 Kaiser/Jeep 5-ton 6X6 model 820 powered by a very strong running 250hp Cummins 6-cylinder non-turbo with a 5-spd manual transmission and 2-spd transfer case. The truck had an expanding van box that was used by the military for an mobile repair shop for electronics. It was very tall and heavy so I had it removed and built the special low profile steel flat bed that measures 18 feet long. My whole mantra for this build was my version of KISS . . . . Keep It Simple & Stout.
I have owned a couple of x-military 2.5 ton 'deuce and a half' trucks that I was going to do an RV makeover to, but the trucks lacked power steering, and I wanted the extra carry capacity of the 5-ton 800 series trucks.
I originally planned on mounting a typical pickup truck style cab over camper and having room left over for a generator, extra water and fuel tanks, etc. But even with the lower bed, it was going to be touch and go on staying under the 14 foot max height under most US laws. Plus, with the very tall camper, it would make navigating tough trails with low hanging trees a challenge, so I began to look for a Hi-Lo camp trailer in the short version. It is easy to find Hi-Lo trailers in the 25 foot range, but that would not work due to the length of the wheelbase and the 18 foot flatbed I am working with.
After a while I gave up trying to find the correct length trailer and tried to sell the truck just as a flatbed. But after a few weeks of not getting any decent offers, I found the right length Hi-Lo trailer and bought it to mount on the flatbed.
I had to cut a couple of feet out of the tongue to shorten the trailer to a reasonable length, which then required that I mount the propane tanks on the flatbed in front of the trailer. I built in some tabs on either side underneath the flatbed in the front areas so a person can hang a generator, extra fuel or water tanks, or toolboxes on. There is room underneath the trailer on the flatbed for ladders, or extra gear, etc.
The last truck I built (my avatar) was bought by some folks who wanted to mount their own gen-set and solar panels, so I have not mounted any on this truck yet in case I sell it as a work in progress.
This truck has a top speed of 55 mph downhill with a tailwind, 50 is a comfortable cruising speed. I lowered the exhaust down under the passenger side step of the cab to lower the noise level, and to keep exhaust soot from getting on the side of the camper unit. The truck is rated to haul 20K lbs, and my total load is only 6K lbs currently including the flatbed. The truck can tow another 30K lbs as well, so I would envision a trailer towed behind with more gear, gen set, extra water, fuel, tires etc. The truck as it is currently configured would get about 6-8 mpg on the highway depending on terrain, wind, road conditions, etc.
I am an Oregon state resident, so the truck can be titled and licensed as a motorhome since it has permanently attached cooking and sleeping arrangements. The trailer/camper unit is fully self contained with bath and shower in the back corner, it will sleep two adults and four kids quite nicely. In the down position the total height is about 10.5 feet.
I'd thought I'd share this with the folks on the forum in case my build would help give ideas to others who are in the planning stages of a build. :smiley_drive:
MVC-003S.JPGMVC-004S.JPGMVC-008S.JPGMVC-021S.JPGMVC-010S.JPGMVC-015S.JPGMVC-016S.JPG
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Cool:Wow1:looking rig! Now that gives a whole new idea to the term, `pop top´ Cheers Chilli...:)
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Is the trailer mounted on spring isolators or something? I'd add another set of taillights down low.
 

Freebird

Adventurer
Cool. You could slip right into the back of the local convoys we see on the interstate headed to "Yakistan" (Yakima Firing Range)....
Lol
 

theburtseoni

Observer
There are rubber blocks under the former spring mounts to give some cushion between the trailer and the truck flatbed, the trailer uses the regular hitch in the front to attach to a 2-inch ball that is mounted on a stand on the truck bed at the front so the trailer can flex separately from the flat bed of the truck. There are attachments at the back of the trailer that hold it down to the bed so it cannot move or bounce up or from side to side. I thought about small hinged covers all the way around, but as soon as I put something like that on, the person that buys it from me has a different idea as to what should be done. So I have done 'all the heavy lifting' (so to speak), and left the smaller details like tool boxes, storage space, side panels, gen-set, solar panels, etc to the next owner.
 

pmoyle

New member
I love it. I'm still working on designing a lift mechanism so I can get my Pine mountain pop up camper in the back of my M923A2.
 

theburtseoni

Observer
I have a friend who has an 8K lb forklift who lifted the trailer up so I could back the truck under the trailer. He had to put on the fork extensions to reach under the trailer far enough, the trailer is supposed to weigh about 2,900 lbs and the forklift was working to get it up high enough to back the truck under. Then I had to bring the truck back to my shop and use bottle jacks and cribbing to lift the trailer up enough to get the tires off and the axles off and out from under the trailer and attach the brackets that hold the trailer from moving side to side or up, and attach the front bracket that has the 2-inch trailer ball that the trailer hitch is attached to in the front.
You should have seen the 'event' when I was putting the camper on the back of the truck that is my avatar. That was a little nerve wracking to have the camper so high in the air on the jacks that were up high already on wooden cribbing, and my 4K lb forklift on the back to steady things!:Wow1:
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
There are rubber blocks under the former spring mounts to give some cushion between the trailer and the truck flatbed, the trailer uses the regular hitch in the front to attach to a 2-inch ball that is mounted on a stand on the truck bed at the front so the trailer can flex separately from the flat bed of the truck. There are attachments at the back of the trailer that hold it down to the bed so it cannot move or bounce up or from side to side. .....

DANG..... just when you think something is your own idea*..... you find someone else has done it LOL . So how has the trailer held up to the bounce of offroad travel this way?

* using tounge/ball and trailer's own suspension as a 3pt mount.
 
Last edited:

mr_ed

Toolbag
That's an awesome rig!

So this is probably a noob-ish question, but what's the deal with driving these 5 tons? Does one need a CDL? I know the OP said this one is titled as an RV, but in standard format, wouldn't these beasts be over the limit for your standard drivers license?


Sent while on the toilet using Tapatalk
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
That's an awesome rig!

So this is probably a noob-ish question, but what's the deal with driving these 5 tons? Does one need a CDL? I know the OP said this one is titled as an RV, but in standard format, wouldn't these beasts be over the limit for your standard drivers license?


Sent while on the toilet using Tapatalk
Matters which truck. The newer one's released from Military; the FMTV line of trucks no you do not need CDL in most states but it is a state by state thing though. More can answer that at Steelsoliders forum.
 

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