Bilstein shock installation question(front). (gen 2.5) Inner tie rod removal **********

[snakeyjake]

I'm sure this has been addressed somewhere and I'm just not smart enough to find it. Anyway the kyb's I removed have 2 nippled bushings for the upper mount. Obviously to help them seat . Bilsteins only have 1.(see photo) I'm assuming I should install the nippled bushing underneath and the flat on top? Or does it even matter? Just find it odd. Also has anyone ever gotten their inner tie rods out a special tool. I got the outer out with rubber mallet but now stuck on the inner. Should I go to harbor freight and buy the tool or am I better off flush cutting the bolt against the frame and trying to pop it out after that? I imagine the idler arm will be even more difficult to remove so may leave that for mechanic.

 

[Toasty]

There are supposed to be 2 shock stud bushings, the tie rod ends don't require a tool. Just apply pressure in the direction of removal and hit the boss holding the stud with a sledgehammer. This is the same process if you have a tie rod puller, the puller doesn't typically remove the rod end by itself. It needs the shock from being struck.

 

[snakeyjake]

There are 2 bushings. One has the nipple, (shown) the other is just a flat bushing that's the same size. Both boxes are the same so the hardware is correct. The KYB's that are on there have 2 nippled bushings per shock, not 1. That's why I have the question. If theres only nippled bushing I'm thinking it should go underneath? I tried rumoving inner tie rod with a regular hammer not seeing how a sledge hammer will fit in that space it seemed too limited. I'll see if I have a short throw sledge hammer. Thanks

 

[snakeyjake]

Re-read my original post. I made it sound like there was only one bushing supplied by Bilstein. There are two but only one is nippled. That's the issue.

 

[nwoods]

I have seen some YouTube mechanics heat up the tie rod ends with a torch and then go after them with a BFH.
I think the asterisk in that sentence is self-explanatory, but it did seem to work....

 

[snakeyjake]

Ok I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks for the advice fellas.

 

[Toasty]

I use a stubby 3lb sledge and it works like a charm. I don't even own a tie rid end puller and I've removed probably close to 100 rod ends. Once you get the technique down...

 

[snakeyjake]

Clearly I’m a talentless hack . (Not that it was ever in question) . Can’t get the damn thing to . Maybe trying to pound the stud out with a hammer yesterday made it worse. I’ll keep trying.

 

[snakeyjake]

Ok hopefully I got this time. I have a big heavy pry bar but I've been hammering the wrong spot like a DA. I've pretty much been hammering every where where but where you're pointing. ? Thanks for the diagram I'll give it another go tomorrow.

 

[Salonika]

I use a stubby 3lb sledge and it works like a charm. I don't even own a tie rid end puller and I've removed probably close to 100 rod ends. Once you get the technique down...

How many of those 100 were done in your garage vs. out in the bush?

 

[Toasty]

Most in my garage, i have done them on the trail and junkyard though. I really don't feel like it makes a difference with TREs where you're breaking them free at. Once you get it down they become not hard at all.

 

[snakeyjake]

Wasn’t able to get down to my warehouse until today. I’m on it now but having problems getting access to getting a good shot with the hammer to the area. Are you guys removing the lower control arm? Where are you getting access to really get a good shot on it?I’m on Jack stands

 

[snakeyjake]

 

[snakeyjake]

 

[snakeyjake]

Ummmm.... bastard popped right out.