Bit overwhelmed with ARB fridge. Please help me set it up so I'm good to go?

[vision-quest]

I graduated from Boulder High School. Does that count?
Look at that list I posted for ARB dealerships. Hopefully one can help you if 4Wheelparts doesn't have it.

I only moved here from Australia in January, not sure I'm the best to be giving out Boulder certificates :sombrero:

I'm going to give 4Wheelparts a call now. So you definitely recommend http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/34r-pc1500t for a deep cell battery that can also start my car for this trip? Then I could add another deep cell to the arkpak later on to pair with it?

 

[Ducky's Dad]

So you definitely recommend http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/34r-pc1500t for a deep cell battery that can also start my car for this trip? Then I could add another deep cell to the arkpak later on to pair with it?

If that is the biggest battery you can fit in there, then the answer is yes. I suspect you may be able to stuff an Odyssey 1750 into that truck, but I have never owned one of those trucks. Group for group, Odyssey's specs and quality are as good as anyone's, better than most. If you do find that you can fit a Grp 31, do NOT use an Odyssey 2150 or a Sears PM1 (same battery branded for Sears) because of the goofy charging and maintenance requirements for that particular battery. When you later go to a dual battery setup, if you have an isolator there is no need to match this battery with the new battery. So, get the best battery you can find and fit tonight.

 

[1Louder]

If that is the biggest battery you can fit in there, then the answer is yes. I suspect you may be able to stuff an Odyssey 1750 into that truck, but I have never owned one of those trucks. Group for group, Odyssey's specs and quality are as good as anyone's, better than most. If you do find that you can fit a Grp 31, do NOT use an Odyssey 2150 or a Sears PM1 (same battery branded for Sears) because of the goofy charging and maintenance requirements for that particular battery. When you later go to a dual battery setup, if you have an isolator there is no need to match this battery with the new battery. So, get the best battery you can find and fit tonight.

What he said. Good luck!

 

[lchavez]

Man, just plug it in a go have fun. The ARB is a great, well designed, travel fridge.

Note: I use the same tricks from ice chest.
-Pre chill chest
-pre chill food
- freeze a few drinks and food ahead of time. (Acts like ice)

PS: welcome to AZ!

 

[Kcdude]

So I got inspired by the OP dilema and decided to do a direct wire, single battery setup in my 4Runner. Picked up a Ody34R-PC1500, canvas cover, wire loom and remote fridge monitor. Got a great deal on the battery..$220 shipped on their website, pricematched by 4wdparts

I got the battery installed last night but realized I should have ordered the $3 spacer because it is slightly shorter than the OEM battery and the holdown threads are max'd out. So I had to cut a small scrap out of wood as a temp spacer. It will do for now but I think a better setup is needed with the weight of the battery.

Anyone have a recommendation on a nice cage style holddown bracket that is less than the $150 one from Odyssey?

Then I prep'd the ARB wire loom to run through the firewall. Nothing like a big ole zip tie and a little soap for lube. I ran the wire through the same hole as the cable that actuates the hood latch. This was a big pain....after the wire lube dried up like a dummy I kept pulling and the rubber grommlet pulled out of the hole. After a lot of work I finally got it back in the hole and wire installed. Just a friendly tip...lot of lube and pull slow.

Now I need to route to the back drivers side and need to decide how to terminate it. Three options:

1) Solder on the ARB connectors, use the plug housing and the supplied 12v cord with the fridge. Only problem is where to mount it? I am thinking about the inside of the jack access cover. When I want to run the fridge just plug in and snap the cover back in place with the wire coming out. Basically hidden.

2) Direct wire. I have a spare 12v fridge wire and can cut off the plug and solder directly on to the wire loom. I can leave some slack, roll it up and stash in the jack area. When I need to use the just pull it out and snap the cover back in place. One question here is what to do with the pluge end since it is a direct wire to the battery...do they make plug covers for this type of connector?

3) Anderson powerpole style connector stashed in the jack area with a plug cover. Only problem is that I really don't want to buy a $40 tool to do one connection.

Any thoughts?

 

[unseenone]

That is an excellent follow up and progress report.

I would implore you to forget the solder and use proper crimped connections though. I suggest an alternative to solder, cigarette or hella plug, or direct wire. This would be Anderson connectors. They will offer you a solid no loss connection and will not heat up. Even if you use the proper butt connectors and other connectors crimped on, and shrink wrapped would be better than soldering it IMO.

You could contact a local Ham club, more than likely several members have the proper crimpers so you do not need to buy them. If nothing else, you pay shipping I'll lend you mine.

You have done a nice job to this point, just do it right, you will not regret it.

Here is a picture of what they look like after being put together. In the picture, you'll note there are three difference sizes, and 2 types. The one I am referring to for the fridge run is the smallest one for up to 45 amp draw. You could for example, take the two smaller connectors you see plugged into the power pole, and plug them into each other, such as a power cord for the fridge into a single feed wire without the use of a power pole at all.

If you decided to get fancier down the road, it might even be done like this.

 

[Kcdude]

So I looked at the rear storage area and behind the jack cover is going to be a pain. I am going to bite the bullet and do a powerpole connector. I found a nifty storage area behind the the back seat so I can tuck it away when not in use. They also have connector protectors. Off to Powerwerx for a little order.

Is there a specific size of prong/connector combination that will accept the ARB 8ga wire size? Anyone know the pin out of the ARB 12V two prong plug?

 

[unseenone]

You should be able to use a multi meter to determine which is positive. I would suggest cutting off the existing plug, and you can use the existing cord and leave the fridge side as is. You'll use the 45amp Anderson connectors here

You "might" want to consider picking up a starter set, which has an assortment of various sizes and options. There are numerous options with and without crimpers. The offer still stands to lend you the tool if you can't find one locally.

Here are some powerpole choices. The small one is a decent choice, it's pictured in the gallery pictures I posted previously. What I like, is if you happen to blow a fuse, it lights the blown one up. The 4004 is a decent choice, compact and has 2 USB outlets on it. http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution/

I recently cut off one of my fridge plugs, and fitted Andersons on it, I can snap a picture for you if you like. Here is a picture of the 4004 all setup. In order they are plugged in, 1. Power In, 2. Rear Rigid Lights 3. Ham Radio, 4. Ham Tracker APRS 5. Fridge (not shown)

 

[Kcdude]

Planned on using the fridge 12v cord and just cutting off the plug. Just need to understand which is + and -

Here is a pic of the plug. Two wires, one goes to the springs on the side the other goes right behind the center pin. Is the pin lead the positive lead?

Thanks for the link on the connectors. Will order today and post up the final. Appreciate all the help!

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Anyone have a recommendation on a nice cage style holddown bracket that is less than the $150 one from Odyssey?

Here is a cage mount for $50.

http://www.artecindustries.com/Odyssey-PC-1500-Battery-Mount_p_113.html

 

[Kcdude]

Here is a cage mount for $50.

http://www.artecindustries.com/Odyssey-PC-1500-Battery-Mount_p_113.html

Score! Thanks.

 

[louie71]

How old is your battery? You might want to just put in a deep cycle battery like an Optima Yellow Top. These serve a dual purpose as a starting battery and have more reserve capacity to power a fridge.

I have a question about using a dual purpose battery. I run an EdgeStar fridge and by design if the battery voltage gets to low it will shut off to theoretically leave me enough juice to still start my jeep. I'm a novice with how the amp hours and how the electrical draws work, but if the fridge shuts off once the voltage drops will I actually see the full deep cycle benefit? Also, isn't there something about not running AGM batteries too low as it reduces cycle life? So the best bet would be to go with a gel or wet cell dual purpose battery? Much thanks

 

[1Louder]

I have a question about using a dual purpose battery. I run an EdgeStar fridge and by design if the battery voltage gets to low it will shut off to theoretically leave me enough juice to still start my jeep. I'm a novice with how the amp hours and how the electrical draws work, but if the fridge shuts off once the voltage drops will I actually see the full deep cycle benefit? Also, isn't there something about not running AGM batteries too low as it reduces cycle life? So the best bet would be to go with a gel or wet cell dual purpose battery? Much thanks

Give this article a read. http://www.arkportablepower.com/blo...reezer-and-battery-life-what-you-need-to-know There are others on the Arkpak as well. Just do a search for dual battery. Starting batteries don't like to be drained down over and over again whereas deep cycle are meant for that. The shutoff on your fridge is meant to prevent the battery from getting to low thus preventing what you are concerned about. (Cycle life)

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Some Optimas are starting batteries(red), some are dual purpose with deep cycle capabilities(yellow), and some come in both persuasions (blue). All Odysseys are deep cycle. I think all Northstar and Deka AGMs are deep cycle, but confirm that before you buy. Flooded lead acid deep cycles are cheaper and generally less sensitive to charging routines, but they typically don't have anywhere near the capacity of the AGM equivalents. The low voltage cutout on your fridge can probably be set to about three levels. The lowest level (~9.6V) is probably going to preserve your battery but won't start the truck. The middle setting (~10.6V) is safer for the battery and may still start the truck, but probably not. The highest setting (~11.something) should start the truck and not do any damage to the battery. Odyssey advises to not let the battery voltage drop below something like 10.6V to avoid "permanent" damage. You will probably want to invest in a desulphating smart charger for battery maintenance between trips.

 

[louie71]

The arkpak sounds like what I'm looking for. Spendy, but gives me what I need as a house battery. I need to read up on this more and find some you tube videos as I'm confused by where and how you mount it and connect to the alternator for charging, but I'll figure it out.

But back to my dual purpose battery question. The EdgeStar has no options to chose different voltages so once the battery drops to a certain voltage the fridge shuts off and the jeep will still start. That scenario I've been through many times with no issues. My question is with the dual purpose that have the deep cycle option does the voltage remain high enough throughout the draining process to see the benefit of the additional reserve power? Does the voltage on the battery stay above 11 volts for example throughout use thus ensuring the full benefit of the additional amp hours. The specs say the EdgeStar will run when the voltage gets as low as 10.5, but from testing voltages my fridge seems to cut off in the high 11's like around 11.8. This may be an issue with the cooler itself not working correctly. I'm trying to figure out how much time I will get before the deep cycle voltage drops into the 11's.

Thanks!