Stay Wild Outdoors
Observer
You get to work on the coolest rigs. Nice build as usual.
BJ74 TD Build Thread - Stoffregen Motorsports
- Thread starter Stoffregen Motorsports
- Start date
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
The stock leaf springs feel like a 50 year old truck. Coilovers (while a tad noisy on the street) combined with the long 3 links, are going to give it a modern vehicle feel. I like to take the modern approach whenever I can.
BTW- I did hack them off and make new ones. I need to post the pics.
Thanks.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Life could be worse, huh?
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
It is crack, I know. Build threads have to be pic heavy, or they're not worth reading. Photobucket sucks and I wish I weren't so invested in them. It takes 8 clicks to add one photo to a forum, but I'm stuck there so I should just quit bitching.
The pickup will be on the block before summer's come and gone. I have a pile of new parts for it waiting to be installed. About $6K of new parts actually so I'm excited to get it done.
Thanks.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Front End Coompletion
In an effort to speed things along, I chose to focus my efforts on the front end of the truck, from suspension to wiring, plumbing, body, etc. The rear is going to be simple by comparison and I needed to consolidate the growing pile of parts for this project. Well it worked. I now have two small carts and one large cart free of parts. Motivation can be found in the strangest places...
Before I tore the truck down for the final front end assembly, I needed to get all the details worked out. These included bump stops, limiting straps, steering stabilizer brackets, brake lines, proportioning valve, FJ80 master and booster, battery boxes and cables and any other small item that would have me grinding off paint to add something I forgot.
The bump stops are one of those items that can change as the truck gets used and the driver become more familiar with it or changes are made. To keep them flexible, I chose the budget air bumps from Poly Performance and a generic bump can to mount them. They are easily adjustable so if larger tires get added later, the bumps can be adjusted to keep the tires from hitting the bodywork. And air bumps can easily be added later too.
Limiting straps are not absolutely needed, but they are cheap insurance against premature shock wear. I made these adjustable as well using a clevis on the top. The lower brackets are mounted to the lower control arms via a sleeve that I fabbed from 2.50 x .250 DOM which I slit down the middle, welded on bolt bungs and tabs and slipped on to the control arms. Now the length of the arms can be adjusted without having to go a whole rotation. I also welded a stop to the control arm so the sleeve can't creep up the arm if it ever becomes loose.
Mock up one more time before tear down.
The visual angle of the shock is very pleasing to the eye.
In an effort to speed things along, I chose to focus my efforts on the front end of the truck, from suspension to wiring, plumbing, body, etc. The rear is going to be simple by comparison and I needed to consolidate the growing pile of parts for this project. Well it worked. I now have two small carts and one large cart free of parts. Motivation can be found in the strangest places...
Before I tore the truck down for the final front end assembly, I needed to get all the details worked out. These included bump stops, limiting straps, steering stabilizer brackets, brake lines, proportioning valve, FJ80 master and booster, battery boxes and cables and any other small item that would have me grinding off paint to add something I forgot.
The bump stops are one of those items that can change as the truck gets used and the driver become more familiar with it or changes are made. To keep them flexible, I chose the budget air bumps from Poly Performance and a generic bump can to mount them. They are easily adjustable so if larger tires get added later, the bumps can be adjusted to keep the tires from hitting the bodywork. And air bumps can easily be added later too.
Limiting straps are not absolutely needed, but they are cheap insurance against premature shock wear. I made these adjustable as well using a clevis on the top. The lower brackets are mounted to the lower control arms via a sleeve that I fabbed from 2.50 x .250 DOM which I slit down the middle, welded on bolt bungs and tabs and slipped on to the control arms. Now the length of the arms can be adjusted without having to go a whole rotation. I also welded a stop to the control arm so the sleeve can't creep up the arm if it ever becomes loose.
Mock up one more time before tear down.
The visual angle of the shock is very pleasing to the eye.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Look at that sexy steering stabilizer. No, it's not going to be used, it's for mock up purposes only.
The stock brake booster would probably have worked, but a better pedal feel and more power is simple enough to get by swapping in the FJ80 master and booster. It's important to note that the FJ80 came with both disc/drum and disc/disc, so we ordered a FZJ80 master for disc/disc. The new booster is deeper than the original unit so some tweaking was required to get it to fit. The actuating rod had to be lengthned, or more accurately, the clevis that screws onto it. This was done by machining a threaded bushing that welds onto the stock clevis to make it longer by an inch.
Mock up and fit the brake lines.
Then cut and modify the rear brake line for the proportioning valve.
Then a new vacuum line needed to be made as the clocking of the port on the two boosters is different. A bracket to bolt the prop valve was made too.
NOTE - All of these pics were properly rotated before they were posted. If they show up on their side, it's Photobucket's fault. Can you guys feel how much I loathe Photobucket...?
The stock brake booster would probably have worked, but a better pedal feel and more power is simple enough to get by swapping in the FJ80 master and booster. It's important to note that the FJ80 came with both disc/drum and disc/disc, so we ordered a FZJ80 master for disc/disc. The new booster is deeper than the original unit so some tweaking was required to get it to fit. The actuating rod had to be lengthned, or more accurately, the clevis that screws onto it. This was done by machining a threaded bushing that welds onto the stock clevis to make it longer by an inch.
Mock up and fit the brake lines.
Then cut and modify the rear brake line for the proportioning valve.
Then a new vacuum line needed to be made as the clocking of the port on the two boosters is different. A bracket to bolt the prop valve was made too.
NOTE - All of these pics were properly rotated before they were posted. If they show up on their side, it's Photobucket's fault. Can you guys feel how much I loathe Photobucket...?
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Stainless steel brake lines were used at all corners of the truck including between the body and frame. Maybe this is common to early Cruisers (I have never seen it before), but the brake lines between the body and frame are isolated by soft lines to allow greater flex. I like the idea, but really it seems rather redundant.
The decision to run the front brake lines down the upper control arm was simple as that was the original design and there was no tee in the body mounted brake lines.
Hard lines for the axle were bent, brackets to hold them were welded on and a tee was mounted to the diff. -3AN flex lines were used to run the length of the upper control arms (front and rear) so this meant using adapter fittings.
The decision to run the front brake lines down the upper control arm was simple as that was the original design and there was no tee in the body mounted brake lines.
Hard lines for the axle were bent, brackets to hold them were welded on and a tee was mounted to the diff. -3AN flex lines were used to run the length of the upper control arms (front and rear) so this meant using adapter fittings.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Teardown, clean, frame paint, reassembly (final).
But wait. Didn't want to get metal grindings on my new paint, so we cut the fenders first. I'll add that we aren't completely sure if this cut is going to be enough, so it will be in cut only form until the truck is driven and flexed out. Then, if the customer chooses, we may weld some strength back into the fenders and complete the inner fender well.
Here's the cut fender. The shape was chosen based on the original flares; it follows exactly that shape.
You can see here the original fender with a sharpie line drawn at the original flare outer edge.
Then the cut fender. You only get one chance to make this look right...
Leftovers.
But wait. Didn't want to get metal grindings on my new paint, so we cut the fenders first. I'll add that we aren't completely sure if this cut is going to be enough, so it will be in cut only form until the truck is driven and flexed out. Then, if the customer chooses, we may weld some strength back into the fenders and complete the inner fender well.
Here's the cut fender. The shape was chosen based on the original flares; it follows exactly that shape.
You can see here the original fender with a sharpie line drawn at the original flare outer edge.
Then the cut fender. You only get one chance to make this look right...
Leftovers.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Now for the cleaning, painting and reassembly. You can see the aforementioned body mounts in the first couple of pics.
Battery box with new cables.
Power steering hoses, using -6AN adapters at the pump and box with Aeroquip hose and hose ends. The hose gets heat shrink wrapped to protect it from premature deterioration from the elements.
Battery box with new cables.
Power steering hoses, using -6AN adapters at the pump and box with Aeroquip hose and hose ends. The hose gets heat shrink wrapped to protect it from premature deterioration from the elements.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
It's not flattery, it's respect. I can appreciate the time and extra effort it takes to post pictures and info.....let alone build the vehicle in the first place.
Question. What tool did you use to cut the fenders? Body saw? The edge looks great for such a complex curve in thin metal.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
That's all I got. I hope after refreshing the page that the pics come out all right. Otherwise, I've tried everyhting I know to get them oriented properly.
Building the front axle today and tomorrow. Lots of fitting and tweaking there too. The diff has to be fit to the housing, the knuckles need to be clearanced for the birfs, and the steering arms have to be final welded. The the diff gets an ARB locker, all parts painted and then assembled. Should have more by early next week.
Oh...#@*&%^$& you Photobucket.
Building the front axle today and tomorrow. Lots of fitting and tweaking there too. The diff has to be fit to the housing, the knuckles need to be clearanced for the birfs, and the steering arms have to be final welded. The the diff gets an ARB locker, all parts painted and then assembled. Should have more by early next week.
Oh...#@*&%^$& you Photobucket.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I use a 6" cutoff wheel on a hand held electric grinder. It takes a steady hand, but with patience, it's a one shot deal. No trimming to do after the cut, only gentle cleanup.
Thanks again.