Black Series HQ Tips, Tricks, and Learning.....
- Thread starter kevin_j
- Start date
Bikepals
Member
I knew you loved projects after our conversation on the phone. Were you having problems with the tanks? I also have questions about your other projects. Could you give some instructions for wheel alignment and maybe include some pictures. Also interested in your hot water circulation project, pictures of that would be helpful also.
Hopefully sometime this year we can meet up. I have your polyblock hitch in a box ready to give to you. The. Mchitch is fantastic. Thanks
Bikepals
Member
Already did this project. When we first got the trailer and we extended the awning and we noticed the door would rake across the awning. Got a wheel and did this right away.
Bikepals
Member
Good to know. I check my wheels every season. I will check the wheels and see if they are tight. You must have a little play or the bearings will be destroyed.
Raspy
Active member
The only trouble with the tank straps was that the tanks were kinda deformed where the straps were not holding it tight against the bottom of the trailer and the aluminum protection plate was also kinda bent. So now everything is held up nicely and the straps are much stronger than stock .
Wheel alignment.
One of my tires was worn out in about 2000 miles. So I began to look more closely at what was going on. Here is how you check it:
Take a long straight edge, like a long construction level, for instance, and lay it against the two tires on one side of the trailer. Do this with the level parallel to the ground and on center of the wheels. It should touch the tires in four spots, Back and front of each tire. This tells you the tires are parallel with each other. If there is a gap somewhere, adjust the eccentric adjusters on the swing arm pivots to move the swing arms until you get the touch at four points, or very close to it. This takes a bit of looking at it to see what happens when the adjuster is turned. Also, to make the adjustment, jack up one of the wheels under the swing arm (call that wheel #1), until the other wheel (call that wheel #2) is off the ground. Then adjust the one that is hanging (wheel #2). Then set it back down and see how you did. This will have to be done with both wheels and done several times to get what you want. To adjust, loosen the jam nuts on the swing arm pivot bolts, and then adjust it by turning the bolt head that is attached to the eccentric washer to move one end of the swing arm around in an arc. This allows tow-in and camber adjustment.
Now do the other side in the same way.
Once each set of wheels is running inline with each other, it's time to check tow-in for the total set of four. Each pair needs to be running along one line, but the lines on each side are not parallel with each other. To check this you need two levels and a helper. Set a level up as described already, against the tires, on each side. Then measure with a tape measure the distance across in front of the forward tires and behind the rear tires. In front and behind. Compare these two measurements. The front should be less. This is not a precise number and mine are at 5/8" less in front than in the rear. This seemed like more than was optimal, but I've discovered that the swing arms can crush the urethane bushings enough to move around a bit while driving, so some tow in allows for this while averaging out to be, more or less, straight.
If this number is not close to 1/2" or 5/8", readjust the eccentrics to correct it, while keepng the tires running true with each other per side.
When you think you are done, drive straight ahead for about 20' or more without turning. Stop and check with the level again. If the tires are still aligned with each other, you are done.
Proof it's right: I put a new tire on after I aligned mine and then pulled it for 3,000 more miles. That new tire still has a bit of the mold tits showing after 3,000 miles! No measurable tread wear. It seems to be perfect.
Be sure to grease the zerks on each swing arm (2 each). I did not see any grease squeezing out after twelve pumps, but I figured that was enough and left it at that.
Wheel alignment.
One of my tires was worn out in about 2000 miles. So I began to look more closely at what was going on. Here is how you check it:
Take a long straight edge, like a long construction level, for instance, and lay it against the two tires on one side of the trailer. Do this with the level parallel to the ground and on center of the wheels. It should touch the tires in four spots, Back and front of each tire. This tells you the tires are parallel with each other. If there is a gap somewhere, adjust the eccentric adjusters on the swing arm pivots to move the swing arms until you get the touch at four points, or very close to it. This takes a bit of looking at it to see what happens when the adjuster is turned. Also, to make the adjustment, jack up one of the wheels under the swing arm (call that wheel #1), until the other wheel (call that wheel #2) is off the ground. Then adjust the one that is hanging (wheel #2). Then set it back down and see how you did. This will have to be done with both wheels and done several times to get what you want. To adjust, loosen the jam nuts on the swing arm pivot bolts, and then adjust it by turning the bolt head that is attached to the eccentric washer to move one end of the swing arm around in an arc. This allows tow-in and camber adjustment.
Now do the other side in the same way.
Once each set of wheels is running inline with each other, it's time to check tow-in for the total set of four. Each pair needs to be running along one line, but the lines on each side are not parallel with each other. To check this you need two levels and a helper. Set a level up as described already, against the tires, on each side. Then measure with a tape measure the distance across in front of the forward tires and behind the rear tires. In front and behind. Compare these two measurements. The front should be less. This is not a precise number and mine are at 5/8" less in front than in the rear. This seemed like more than was optimal, but I've discovered that the swing arms can crush the urethane bushings enough to move around a bit while driving, so some tow in allows for this while averaging out to be, more or less, straight.
If this number is not close to 1/2" or 5/8", readjust the eccentrics to correct it, while keepng the tires running true with each other per side.
When you think you are done, drive straight ahead for about 20' or more without turning. Stop and check with the level again. If the tires are still aligned with each other, you are done.
Proof it's right: I put a new tire on after I aligned mine and then pulled it for 3,000 more miles. That new tire still has a bit of the mold tits showing after 3,000 miles! No measurable tread wear. It seems to be perfect.
Be sure to grease the zerks on each swing arm (2 each). I did not see any grease squeezing out after twelve pumps, but I figured that was enough and left it at that.
OK, city water connection through the outdoor shower on a 2020 HQ 15 (that did not come with city water connection) is complete and working. I removed the handles and faucet that came from the factory and installed a city water connector on the cold water side. The hot water side is plugged for now but Im waiting on a few parts and will install one of these. https://aquorwatersystems.com/shop/universal-outlet/
Robbrown27
New member
im interested in your city water tap simply for the ease of winterization. Livening in Wyoming I some times go through that 2-3 times a year so I can maximize my outdoor usage while being spoiled by lux RV living! The first time I winterized my 2020 HQ15 I was not ready for the effort it took. I’ve had campers for quite some time and have always used the city tap to blow air through the system with great luck for winter. I would only use enough antifreeze to run through the water pump/s and P traps and always had good success minus the one outside shower I lost a couple years back. I’m definitely interested in your success with this mod in that aspect. Regards, Rob
Bikepals
Member
It would be helpful if you took some pictures so we could see what your talking about. I have a HQ15 so I would have to adapt your method to my trailer.
I am very happy to find this board. You guys have given so much useful information and answer so many questions I had. since this is my first trailer. I cant wait to start modding if the better. First is the MPPT solar controller with two more flexible panels. Has anybody hooked up the whole electrical panel to the inverter yet?
Bikepals
Member
You can’t hookup the whole electrical box to the inverter. The inverter gets its shore power from the breaker box in the storage area and there is not enough battery power to run the air conditioner. You could move the ac sockets that are on the kitchen side and bathroom to the inverter which would also put the tank heaters to the inverter. I have looked at doing this but it will be after I switch to lithium batteries - the tank heaters will draw a lot of power.
To do this you would need to run a line from the output side of the inverter to the front storage area. Then disconnect the wires from the breaker labeled GFCI which is position 4 on the HQ15. These need to be connected together. On the video that RV of Americ did on this, they used a separate breaker box to connect them together.
If I do this in the future I will post pictures. Do not run with this and do it yourself unless you have good electrical knowledge. I have a degree in electrical engineering and would do a lot of testing first to make sure I am doing it correctly. Proceed at your own risk.
To do this you would need to run a line from the output side of the inverter to the front storage area. Then disconnect the wires from the breaker labeled GFCI which is position 4 on the HQ15. These need to be connected together. On the video that RV of Americ did on this, they used a separate breaker box to connect them together.
If I do this in the future I will post pictures. Do not run with this and do it yourself unless you have good electrical knowledge. I have a degree in electrical engineering and would do a lot of testing first to make sure I am doing it correctly. Proceed at your own risk.
I don't know why i watched this video on youtube today but i did and i have some questions for you guys i also have a 2020 HQ15 and i don't have a city water hookup my outside stove has the power port on the outside of my unit and i Had to request the wood/storage hold with the jerry can holder. here is the video
RoA-offroadtrailer
Member
Great post.. Just so you know the heater pad takes about 4 amps.. less than we thought. We just tested it lately. Some 12volt pads take the same amount.