BlueRanger's 2004 Tundra AC 4x4 "Do Everything" Truck

Hey all,

Long, long time coming, will do my best to document everything up to this point (and keep you updated on the current and future progress). I bought this truck brand new in 2004 with 11 miles on the ODO so we have a lot of history together (16 years!). This happened after a deal to buy a similar 2002 supercharged, coilovers, sweet stereo etc fell though so its been a long 16 years getting back to (and even better than) the truck I originally wanted and dreamed of.

Why BlueRanger? My first truck was a 98 Ford Ranger, 2wd, stock years, 2.5L 4 banger for a whopping 119 hp. Freeway trips and 3rd gear pinned hills were the norm. Loved the truck but wanted 4x4 and more power. Sold it to a friend who sold it to another friend – no idea where she is now. Used to be my old AIM handle, who has that anymore? Still don't have a name for this truck 16 years later so suggestions welcome :).

Overall goal is to be able to do everything well, nothing great (or can I?). A lot of diverse dirt in Southern California from Ocitilllo, Glamis and Mexico. A lot of mountains to explore nearby as well…wanted something to do it all and get me back home safe and some weekend runs to Home Depot. As tempting as LT is I just didn’t want the added width and fiberglass, although I may cave eventually, we will see.

I’ll do my best to document the last 16 years in the coming days but a lot is happening NOW, including a supercharger install. Wanted to get the post up now and piece together the loose ends later. Ultimately hoping I can help / inspire others as has been done to me through many years of reading/researching/modifying. Big thanks to others on here for the inspiration and help, specifically Lancehansen (I bought his old rear bumper), Seanpistol, and Rickashay. Toyotech and Kpac, enjoying your builds too.


Current Status:
2004 Tundra AC SR5 TRD 4x4
Current Mileage: 153K


Suspension:
Front:

  • King Ext Travel 2.5 w/ 700lb coil
  • Built Right Uniball UCA
  • Spindle Gussets
  • Coil Bucket Gussets
  • Built Right Custom Lower A-Arm to improve ground clearance and caster
  • Timbren Bumpstops
  • Cam Tab Gussets
Rear:
  • Icon Piggyback 2.5 Resi w/ 3-leaf AAL replacement for overload

Driveline:
  • 315/70/17 Falken AT3s
  • Method 701 Bronze 17x8s
  • Full size spare mounted in bed w/ 3-strap
  • 1” Wheel Adaptors in Front
  • Nitro 4.88 Gears
  • ARB Air Lockers F/R w/ Compressor in engine bay
  • ARB Breather Kit mounted next to brake booster
  • Aisen Manual Hub Conversion
Performance:
  • Doug Thorley Shorty Headers
  • Spintech Sportsman Street direct muffler replacement
  • TRD Supercharger w/ 9th & 10th Injector (install underway)
  • Unichip (install underway)
  • Volant CAI (install underway)
  • TRD 160 Thermostat
  • Innovate Motorsports PSB-1 Boost/AFR gauge in A-Pillar mount
  • ScanGauge (need to program trans temp, any help appreciated)
  • IPT Valve Body Transmission Mod

Armor/Recovery/Lighting:

  • Brute Force Fab Front Bumper
  • BajaDesigns 20” OnX Light Bar
  • BajaDesigns Squadron Sports Amber Spot/Fog Combo
  • Smittybuilt X20 10K w/ Syn-line & wireless remote
  • HIDRetrofit HID Projector Replacement w/lighted Halos + Turning Signals
  • Custom Aluminum Front Skid Plate (Brand new Skid Row for sale)
  • Custom Aluminum Oil Pan Skid Plate (Brand dnew Skid Row for sale)
  • Skid Row Transmission Skid Plate
  • Skid Row Transfer Case Skid Plate
  • Custom SoloDesigns High-Clearance Rear Bumper
  • LineX Bed Liner

Interior:
  • Kenwood KDC X-700 Deck (replacing with Alpine 149-BT)
  • Polk DB 6502 Components in Front / stock paper rear
  • Kenwood X-450-4, rear bridged to sub (300x1), mounted on cab wall behind driver rear bench
  • Infintiy Kappa Perfect 10” in custom baffle w/ fiberglassed storage compartment
  • SoundDeadening Showdown Front Door Treatment (Tiles, Foam, MLV).
  • Wet Okole Seat covers Black/Charcoal combo F/R (2nd set!)
  • 20% 3M tint on front
  • Kenwood TM-281A Race Radio w/ Mag Mount as needed
  • Blue LED Dash Mod
  • WeatherTech Front Floor Liners
  • Modified Drivers rail for more legroom (I’m 6’5”)
Future Mods:
  • Rear Suspension makeover – taking ideas
  • Thinking Spring under w/ low-profile bed shock hoop or cantilever setup
  • Archive Garage Hammer Shackles (when available)
  • Beef up recovery gear options (Factor55)
  • ARB Fridge
  • Bed Cage for RTT flush w/ roofline
  • Rear Lights for Bumper
  • Backup Camera?
  • Rock Lights?

I’m sure I will think of more little things but that’s the 99% of the build as of now. Looking forward to updating and following others as well, cheers!
 

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James @ http://sdtruckshop.com/ built them for me. Brought the truck in for a major transformation (gears, tires, lockers, skids, etc) and we noticed the camber was way out after replacing with OEM less than 20K previously. James said this was a big problem on our trucks and offered to try and fix (I got to be the prototype truck). Notice the horizontal angle before dropping down to lbj. He also pushed lower mounting point forward improving caster and requiring significantly less tubbing to get the 35s to fit.

He now has them available for sale, not sure on price though, would have to call him. No complaints here! Multiple romping trips and miles, need to get them powder coating next time I take the truck in.
 

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Kpack

Adventurer
Really like what you've done. I would love to move up to 315 size tires, but I really don't want to bother with a regear anytime soon.

I'm also interested in seeing more of the LCA and the aluminum skids you have. Who made the skids?

BTW, your pictures are showing up super small and hard to see.
 

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
Really like what you've done. I would love to move up to 315 size tires, but I really don't want to bother with a regear anytime soon.

I'm also interested in seeing more of the LCA and the aluminum skids you have. Who made the skids?

BTW, your pictures are showing up super small and hard to see.
I had planned to do 315s but the 295s I just got on mine are a good happy medium for now. I don't really notice the difference in weight/diameter difference from the 285s but I can tell they are bigger and they fill the wheel wells much better.

@blueranger501 Thanks for the info, it looks like you have the front camber bolts shielded/reinforced as well. Any info on that?


Cool setup, I like the direction you have gone so far.

Sean
 
If I could do it again I would have done 285/75/17. Would still need/prefer the regear (4.56 vs 4.88) but the weight savings would be significant!

I was so obsessed with "35s" I didn't think about it as much as I should have. Can you drive with 35s and 3.91s? Sure, but its an absolute DOG (I did it for a month)!

Previously, I had 285/75/16s for the first 14 years on stock gearing and it was AWESOME! People were blown away with where my truck could go. ReGearing to 4.56 would have been even better but did just fine (drop to 3rd on big freeway climbs) and frankly for most of the people on here that's all you will ever need (just don't skimp on shocks front and rear).

Here are some better pics I just took of the arms, cam bracing and skid plate support, any other angles let me know. I'll weave in other earlier revelations as I keep you updated on the supercharger install.

Look above though, 33s, good shocks (ran Donahoe Coilovers for 14 years with one rebuild) will get you almost anywhere. Only thing I would have added in that period would have been a rear locker, onboard air, and skids. Go 35s, you open up a huge can of worms as you will shortly see...
 

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Last edited:
Ebay.....brand new seller found 2 at an estate sale, kept 1 sold one. Still had the original testing tags on it.

Unit only, took me 6 weeks to piece everything else together. Huge thanks to James McCann, he has been my guide through this process and knows more about these units than anyone I know. He sells units he rebuilds himself if you need contact info let me know.

In other news I have my intake manifold off and am cleaning the valves, heads etc before the blower goes back on.

What would you guys do about the cast iron block surface rust? Leave as is or prep and paint? I’m changing the original starter since I am in there, won’t be here until next Thursday so I have time.....
 

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smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
Leave the block as is, its "seasoned" For the starter, use oem or rebuild your stock one.

Which version of the charger and which tuner are you installing? They revised that kit several times.

Sean
 

Muleman

The Journey
Hey all,

Long, long time coming, will do my best to document everything up to this point (and keep you updated on the current and future progress). I bought this truck brand new in 2004 with 11 miles on the ODO so we have a lot of history together (16 years!). This happened after a deal to buy a similar 2002 supercharged, coilovers, sweet stereo etc fell though so its been a long 16 years getting back to (and even better than) the truck I originally wanted and dreamed of.

Why BlueRanger? My first truck was a 98 Ford Ranger, 2wd, stock years, 2.5L 4 banger for a whopping 119 hp. Freeway trips and 3rd gear pinned hills were the norm. Loved the truck but wanted 4x4 and more power. Sold it to a friend who sold it to another friend – no idea where she is now. Used to be my old AIM handle, who has that anymore? Still don't have a name for this truck 16 years later so suggestions welcome :).

Overall goal is to be able to do everything well, nothing great (or can I?). A lot of diverse dirt in Southern California from Ocitilllo, Glamis and Mexico. A lot of mountains to explore nearby as well…wanted something to do it all and get me back home safe and some weekend runs to Home Depot. As tempting as LT is I just didn’t want the added width and fiberglass, although I may cave eventually, we will see.

I’ll do my best to document the last 16 years in the coming days but a lot is happening NOW, including a supercharger install. Wanted to get the post up now and piece together the loose ends later. Ultimately hoping I can help / inspire others as has been done to me through many years of reading/researching/modifying. Big thanks to others on here for the inspiration and help, specifically Lancehansen (I bought his old rear bumper), Seanpistol, and Rickashay. Toyotech and Kpac, enjoying your builds too.


Current Status:
2004 Tundra AC SR5 TRD 4x4
Current Mileage: 153K


Suspension:
Front:

  • King Ext Travel 2.5 w/ 700lb coil
  • Built Right Uniball UCA
  • Spindle Gussets
  • Coil Bucket Gussets
  • Built Right Custom Lower A-Arm to improve ground clearance and caster
  • Timbren Bumpstops
  • Cam Tab Gussets
Rear:
  • Icon Piggyback 2.5 Resi w/ 3-leaf AAL replacement for overload

Driveline:
  • 315/70/17 Falken AT3s
  • Method 701 Bronze 17x8s
  • Full size spare mounted in bed w/ 3-strap
  • 1” Wheel Adaptors in Front
  • Nitro 4.88 Gears
  • ARB Air Lockers F/R w/ Compressor in engine bay
  • ARB Breather Kit mounted next to brake booster
  • Aisen Manual Hub Conversion
Performance:
  • Doug Thorley Shorty Headers
  • Spintech Sportsman Street direct muffler replacement
  • TRD Supercharger w/ 9th & 10th Injector (install underway)
  • Unichip (install underway)
  • Volant CAI (install underway)
  • TRD 160 Thermostat
  • Innovate Motorsports PSB-1 Boost/AFR gauge in A-Pillar mount
  • ScanGauge (need to program trans temp, any help appreciated)
  • IPT Valve Body Transmission Mod

Armor/Recovery/Lighting:

  • Brute Force Fab Front Bumper
  • BajaDesigns 20” OnX Light Bar
  • BajaDesigns Squadron Sports Amber Spot/Fog Combo
  • Smittybuilt X20 10K w/ Syn-line & wireless remote
  • HIDRetrofit HID Projector Replacement w/lighted Halos + Turning Signals
  • Custom Aluminum Front Skid Plate (Brand new Skid Row for sale)
  • Custom Aluminum Oil Pan Skid Plate (Brand dnew Skid Row for sale)
  • Skid Row Transmission Skid Plate
  • Skid Row Transfer Case Skid Plate
  • Custom SoloDesigns High-Clearance Rear Bumper
  • LineX Bed Liner

Interior:
  • Kenwood KDC X-700 Deck (replacing with Alpine 149-BT)
  • Polk DB 6502 Components in Front / stock paper rear
  • Kenwood X-450-4, rear bridged to sub (300x1), mounted on cab wall behind driver rear bench
  • Infintiy Kappa Perfect 10” in custom baffle w/ fiberglassed storage compartment
  • SoundDeadening Showdown Front Door Treatment (Tiles, Foam, MLV).
  • Wet Okole Seat covers Black/Charcoal combo F/R (2nd set!)
  • 20% 3M tint on front
  • Kenwood TM-281A Race Radio w/ Mag Mount as needed
  • Blue LED Dash Mod
  • WeatherTech Front Floor Liners
  • Modified Drivers rail for more legroom (I’m 6’5”)
Future Mods:
  • Rear Suspension makeover – taking ideas
  • Thinking Spring under w/ low-profile bed shock hoop or cantilever setup
  • Archive Garage Hammer Shackles (when available)
  • Beef up recovery gear options (Factor55)
  • ARB Fridge
  • Bed Cage for RTT flush w/ roofline
  • Rear Lights for Bumper
  • Backup Camera?
  • Rock Lights?

I’m sure I will think of more little things but that’s the 99% of the build as of now. Looking forward to updating and following others as well, cheers!
Man, I really like the build & your thought process.
 
Leave the block as is, its "seasoned" For the starter, use oem or rebuild your stock one.

Which version of the charger and which tuner are you installing? They revised that kit several times.

Sean

Bought a reman Denso off rock auto...will keep original as a spare.

The supercharger is the newest version to my knowledge as it has 9th and 10th injectors.

Running a unichip with the 5 map switch for the ECU, hope to get that wired in in the next few days.

Also coming off of stock intake (always read bad reviews going aftermarket on N/A engines) and went with a Volant CAI. Larger diameter (3.5” vs. 3”) and better insulated to lower IAT.

Here’s a pic of my AFR / Boost combo gauge. Was fun to look at AFR ratios before the supercharger to compare. Most the time it runs 14:1, WOT was the only time I could get it to run rich at 11:1.

Rebuilding my coil boots now and trying to figure out how to swap those damn springs. Any advice? After that putting in my cooler NGK plugs.

Chugging along,,,
 

odonekanobe

Observer
Ebay.....brand new seller found 2 at an estate sale, kept 1 sold one. Still had the original testing tags on it.

Unit only, took me 6 weeks to piece everything else together. Huge thanks to James McCann, he has been my guide through this process and knows more about these units than anyone I know. He sells units he rebuilds himself if you need contact info let me know.

In other news I have my intake manifold off and am cleaning the valves, heads etc before the blower goes back on.

What would you guys do about the cast iron block surface rust? Leave as is or prep and paint? I’m changing the original starter since I am in there, won’t be here until next Thursday so I have time.....

I know James well. He's a good dude and the guru on these units. When I saw what you were using such as the Volant intake and the Innovative gauge I suspected he might be your guy.

My Tundra was one of the rigs that contributed to those maps on the unichip I believe.
 
Right on, thanks for the help/contribution! Our trucks need some love....aftermarket forgot about us...

Rebuilding the coil boots right now and I cannot figure out how to get the new spring seated into the coil boot. It’s cone shaped; The fatter end goes into the coil. Pushing with a spark plug, snap ring pliars etc I cant get the new spring in.
Overall my coil boots look great. Will do the valve cover gasket and the distal boot. Just not sure about the spring. If I can figure it out I’ll swap everything otherwise will leave as is....
 

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