Bob the Campulance. E350 Crestline with Roof Raise. V3 in Progress.

[Bikersmurf]

The clamp on posts were needed because they were starting batteries.

To keep your house batteries healthy you’ll need:

1) lots of solar &/or a multistage charger

2) an ACR type change relay (or manual combiner)... ditch the diode isolator if it has on.

Binicle marine had the best price I could find on a Blue Sea ACR.

Now that I have it, I love my Statpower (now Xantrex) TRUECHARGE charger... I’m sure my house batteries will last far longer now... rather than rarely getting a full charge.

I had an older marine charger that was supposed to put out 13.8 to charge them... it reached a point where it seemed to drain them overnight. I was using it along with a cheaper home use Mulit-stage. The other multi-stage could usually charge them up overnight. The TRUECHARGE can do it in a few hours and then switches to 13.2-13.3v which won’t charge them, but instead powers everything that’s connected. They changed some over the years... the one I’m running is one of their earlier models so it doesn’t have quite as many options. I bought it in new condition (suspect it wasn’t used at all) for $50... so I good with only having the features I’d use rather than also having extras.

 

[iggi]

Took the ambo out for it's first real run. Met friends to go for a road bike on a section of highway that's closed to cars until tomorrow and makes a great ride.
So just for kicks I threw the bike in the back (seat belts work great as a bike restraint) and went for a rip.
About a 200K round trip. Averaged 15 litres per 100k. I'm super impressed! Doesn't feel like it should get that good of fuel economy.

It is rather noisy though. Anyone gone to the trouble of installing fatmat or some other sound deadening material in the cab and on the dog house? When coasting it's surprisingly quiet.

Was showing it off to friends. No surprise to any existing ambo owners but the amount of room as great. 4 people, plus a dog, plus a bike (blocking the one seat) and there was still plenty of room.

 

[iggi]

Thanks!

Due to your earlier posts on the ACR that's my next purchase. (LED lights just showed up today)

I'll look into the charger next.
Then solar.

Are you running just the two house batteries?

Ohhh.. just remembered. The stock intake and exhaust fans are powerful... but noisy.
Did you find a quieter fan that fits into the stock location?

Thanks again for all the info you share!
Ian

The clamp on posts were needed because they were starting batteries.

To keep your house batteries healthy you’ll need:

1) lots of solar &/or a multistage charger

2) an ACR type change relay (or manual combiner)... ditch the diode isolator if it has on.

Binicle marine had the best price I could find on a Blue Sea ACR.

Now that I have it, I love my Statpower (now Xantrex) TRUECHARGE charger... I’m sure my house batteries will last far longer now... rather than rarely getting a full charge.

I had an older marine charger that was supposed to put out 13.8 to charge them... it reached a point where it seemed to drain them overnight. I was using it along with a cheaper home use Mulit-stage. The other multi-stage could usually charge them up overnight. The TRUECHARGE can do it in a few hours and then switches to 13.2-13.3v which won’t charge them, but instead powers everything that’s connected. They changed some over the years... the one I’m running is one of their earlier models so it doesn’t have quite as many options. I bought it in new condition (suspect it wasn’t used at all) for $50... so I good with only having the features I’d use rather than also having extras.

 

[iggi]

Figured I should put a voltmeter on my system before I started ordering new parts willy-nilly.
Looks like Crestline must have upgraded the electronics some since the 90's

On shore power I'm getting 14.3 volts at the house batteries
On alternator I'm getting 15.3.

I'm no expert on charging systems but it seems like I don't need to upgrade the battery isolator or the charger.

 

[Bikersmurf]

15.3 seems a little high. Most 12 v electronics don't like to see more than 15 v. My inverter will shut down due to over voltage above 15 v.

I'd check the connections to the alternator to ensure the regulator doesn't over charge your batteries. When I connected the alternator directly to the house batteries, its output would reach 15.4 v, it would shut down the inverter until the ACR connected the starting batteries. Once the alternator was connected to the starting batteries, the alternator voltage was reduced to <15 v.

I'd look into the model of charger and determine how advanced its charging algorythms are. 14.3 v to begin with is fine, however, if it's not reduced as they approach full charge, it'll boil the batteries.

 

[cody c]

15.3 seems a little high. Most 12 v electronics don't like to see more than 15 v. My inverter will shut down due to over voltage above 15 v.

I'd check the connections to the alternator to ensure the regulator doesn't over charge your batteries. When I connected the alternator directly to the house batteries, its output would reach 15.4 v, it would shut down the inverter until the ACR connected the starting batteries. Once the alternator was connected to the starting batteries, the alternator voltage was reduced to <15 v.

I'd look into the model of charger and determine how advanced its charging algorythms are. 14.3 v to begin with is fine, however, if it's not reduced as they approach full charge, it'll boil the batteries.

Huh, Ive heard of higher alt outputs, his system may be designed to see high load at all times, or some sort of high output scenario.

Maybe dig up the manufacturers specs on the batteries to see if they define a range of limits. May be different for non high CCA style batteries.

 

[iggi]

checked out the intake fan tube. It's marked as 100mm. Think I'll try one of those low noise computer fans. 100mm on the intake and while I have to take the cabinet apart it looks like the exhaust fan might handle a 200mm fan. Obviously not as good as powered roof vent but better than no air ventilation at all.

And since it's already wired up and the parts are less than $50 I think it's worth the try.

PcCooler F105,Toptekits100mm/10cm Quiet Fan, Single Fan, Washable, Super Mute, for Power Supply, for Computer Case Cooler by Toptekits : Amazon.ca: Electronics

PcCooler F105,Toptekits100mm/10cm Quiet Fan, Single Fan, Washable, Super Mute, for Power Supply, for Computer Case Cooler by Toptekits : Amazon.ca: Electronics

www.amazon.ca

Thermaltake Technoloy Pure Series Case Cooling Fan CL-F016-PL20BU-A, White: Amazon.ca: Gateway

Thermaltake Technoloy Pure Series Case Cooling Fan CL-F016-PL20BU-A, White: Amazon.ca: Gateway

www.amazon.ca

 

[iggi]

Thanks for the feedback.

I'll test to see if the voltage gets turned down as the batteries are fully charged..
I doubt Crestline was delivering units from the factory that were frying the house batteries.

Cheers,
Ian

15.3 seems a little high. Most 12 v electronics don't like to see more than 15 v. My inverter will shut down due to over voltage above 15 v.

I'd check the connections to the alternator to ensure the regulator doesn't over charge your batteries. When I connected the alternator directly to the house batteries, its output would reach 15.4 v, it would shut down the inverter until the ACR connected the starting batteries. Once the alternator was connected to the starting batteries, the alternator voltage was reduced to <15 v.

I'd look into the model of charger and determine how advanced its charging algorythms are. 14.3 v to begin with is fine, however, if it's not reduced as they approach full charge, it'll boil the batteries.

 

[iggi]

I looked up the charger/inverter. Don't think I have much to worry about:



Fleet Power 1000 (Ambulance)

Reliable AC Power for Emergency Vehicles

The Fleet PowerTM 1000 provides 1000 continuous watts of silent and efficient AC household power from your vehicle’s DC batteries. When plugged into an electrical outlet, a built-in 50-amp, 3-stage charger automatically charges your batteries without the risk of overcharge. It comes with a transfer switch that automatically selects either an external or inverter power source. It is ideal for powering loads such as motors with high surge.

Built for hands-off operation, the Fleet Power 1000 can be used with the optional Fleet Power Remote for on/off control and basic system monitoring. For advanced system monitoring and control, Fleet Power 1000 can be paired with optional Link instrumentation.

Product Features

1000-watt inverter (3000-watt surge)
50 A automatic 3-stage battery charger
Built-in transfer switch automatically transfers between inverter power and incoming AC power
Power sharing increases available AC during charging
GFCI receptacle
High surge capability
Durable design and easy to install horizontally or vertically
in compact spaces
One year warranty

Protection Features

Over voltage and under voltage protection Over-temperature protection
Overload protection
Short circuit protection

Accessories

Battery cables with Anderson connector (included) AC input cord (included)
Fleet Power Remote (optional)
Link 1000 or 2000 (optional)

 

[Bikersmurf]

Thanks for the feedback.

I'll test to see if the voltage gets turned down as the batteries are fully charged..
I doubt Crestline was delivering units from the factory that were frying the house batteries.

Cheers,
Ian

It looks like you’re good. In ‘97, the diode isolators and charger inverters were killing the batteries prematurely... at the time it was just accepted that the batteries died quickly. A lot has changed since then... one Benefit of a 12 year newer rig.

 

[iggi]

@Bikersmurf At least I got something out of all the extra money I spent over what yours cost!

 

[iggi]

Ok. Progress on the bed.
I've been scratching my head on this for probably a month before I even got the ambulance.

Initially figured a murphy would be the way to go but.. decided I'd really like a window in that wall that is accessible in the day. (and not just when the bed was down)
The flip style seemed solid and simple but a couple people told me that they found it a pain in the ass moving the mattress around
I spent a few days looking at slat bed designs and beds using drawer slides but they just seemed too fussy or.. wouldn't extend from bench size to double.


Requirements:

able to grab a quick nap without adjusting anything
bench to remain as stock a possible
I want it to be a fairly comfy couch.
End of a long day I really don't want to have to shuffle a full mattress about or flip two halves from one side to another.


So here's what I came up with:

I built the two frames shown the pic. Each will be hinged to the corner of the bench and since the lid overhangs the bench, they will fold completely out of the way.
The factory bench pad will be replaced with a roughly half a twin mattress.
The other half will be mounted to a sheet of plywood and upholstered.
When in bench mode this will be the back rest. In bed mode of course it'll just be flipped down on top of the frame and secured tightly to the other half the mattress.
I didn't fab it up but there is room for a smaller flip out support in the middle and I'll need to make a middle support for the cabinet side.

It might be hard to tell from the pics but the captains chair will have to come out as it's in the way of the bed.

If a person wanted a queen size width then adding two drawer slides per frame would allow them to extend further than there is room for across the bench.
I may add the slides anyway so that the bed can become two singles. I'll be doing a fair bit of climbing trips and especially for ice season I won't be able to expect that my non-romantic climbing partners always sleep outside.

Cheers,
Ian

 

[iggi]

First camping trip happened over the weekend.
Ran out of time to finish building the bed so just threw down a tri-fold and sleeping bag.
I pulled the rear captains chair out before I left and really appreciated the extra space and ease of getting around.
Was really cool getting a bunch of my stuff in there. I must be one of the lucky ones as I can't see building cabinets that could suit my needs better.
Even my preferred size of rubbermaid containers fit right into the rear shelves and the belts hold them in.

Averaged 15 litres per 100K (15 MPG) through mountainous terrain. Happy with that as well.

In removing the seat I did discover the floor isn't insulated. Will have to address that. Preferably from below as I don't feel like redoing the floor or losing any headroom.

 

[Bikersmurf]

You’ll likely find that you’ll have a layer of aluminum, 5/8” of firing/insulation, 5/8” of plywood, and then your ‘rubber’ flooring. Where seats are bolted down there is extra plywood so that it won’t compress.

 

[iggi]

Bunch of small progress the last few days. Things are always more fiddly than expected and take longer than planned.

Let's see, what's been accomplished:

• Ceiling dome lights all replaced with LED
• Removed factory exhaust and intake fans. Installed 12 Volt computer case fans to replace
• Installed cup holder
• installed broom holder
• ordered lots of parts
• test run of solar system
• planning out sink install
• removed panel in front of factory box heater/ac and measured.. There's room for a webasto airtop right next to it.