Bolted together utility trailer frame

[NorthbyNorthwest]

So... winter project time

With 2 kids under 5, cargo space (not to mention payload weight) is in short supply in our Pathfinder. The solution: an off-road utility trailer. The problem: I don't weld (and I rent and have no shop space so learning to weld is not an option).

My research so far suggests that there are a lot of people who HATE bolted together trailer frames, HOWEVER, designed and built properly, there is nothing wrong with it. The trouble is that everyone says "bolted together properly" without explaining how to bolt it together properly.

So, who is willing to offer up advice on how to design and build a bolted trailer frame for a 4x6 utility box? I'm pretty set on size as I drive fairly small vehicle with a narrow track width and spend lots of time in pinstripe-tight brush. FWIW, I want quality rather than quantity (but I still want DIY, so don't tell me to just go find someone to weld it for me) - I'm okay starting with a solid frame and plywood deck, then add high quality features (box, kitchen, roof rack, etc.) one piece at a time later on, rather than trying to realize a dream overnight.

 

[rnArmy]

Start with a 4x8' Harbor Freight NONFOLDING trailer frame and modify/reinforce to suit your needs. It will make it much easier to get a tag.

Check this out: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...ype-trailer-ultimate-build-up-thread-1180456/

If you go to post #459 in the link above it will give you a link on modifying such a trailer.

 

[rnArmy]

I started out with a little 4' HF type trailer and went from there.

 

[NorthbyNorthwest]

HF is out. I live in Northwestern BC. I could get a professional fabricator to build me a frame from scratch by the time I pay duties and shipping.

Opinions on ordering a set of plans like this? http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/utility-trailer-plans-8x4.html If it's bolt together... can't tell for sure without asking them

 

[rayra]

'bolted together properly' is simply a matter of using a decent grade of bolt, some proper lockwashers and something akin to nylock nuts. And maybe even some threadlocker goop. And placing your bolts so the nuts are on the underside, such that even if the nut works loose the bolt is still in the hole giving you time to notice before it falls apart. And if you are REALLY worried about, you can use different bolts and safety wire or cotter pin things as on some aviation assemblies.

And just make a practice of inspecting your bolts before and after trips or at least on the same frequency as you lube the trailer.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Difficult

A bolted trailer frame would be difficult to design and build from scratch.

Lots of design elements would be "odd" as you attempt to make stock steel or aluminum pieces line up over one another in order to get bolts to pass through.

Proper torque for the bolt size and locking nuts are pretty easy to achieve with basic Internet research. A bolted joint that is correctly designed to take all of the forces a trailer will see is relatively easy to learn as well. The alignment of parts without welded on tabs to bolt through is not so easy.

I suspect that even the cheapo home center trailers made to be self assembled will have tabs welded in place to receive the bolts.

I believe you would be better off starting with Craigslist or similar for a trailer, or saving money and buying off the Internet, or...

Have you considered signing up for a welding course at a local community college? Quite often, you can find shop space, equipment, qualified instruction, and create a "class project"... Wow! How about a simple camping trailer?

Either way, good luck.

 

[rokrawlr]

Harbor Freight may be out, but what about a simple utility trailer from one of the other supply type stores? I know Tractor Supply, Home Depot and Lowes all sell varying levels of utility trailers. Wouldn't there be a Canada counterpart that sells a decent one that you can use as a starting point?

 

[WanderingJim]

Bolted connections do have some advantages over welded connections. If the bolt tab or bolt breaks, you lose that discreet connection. In the case of a welded connection, there is a good possibility that a fracture in the welded connection will also propagate into the welded structural member which would result not only in the loss of the connection but the loss of the structural member. If you do use bolted connections, I would recommend using properly rated "nylock" nuts or blue thread locker.

 

[bhguy]

1)Canadian tire sells the same unit as harbor freight
2)princess auto is the Canadian harbor freight
3)kms tools sells them
4)home depot sells em
5)lowes sells em
6)Costco sells em

lots of options...I bet if you price out a pre-fab will cost the same or less

 

[chrislloyd]

Hello rnArmy... can you tell me where you found the diamond plate tub? I was thinking of something similar using 2 5th wheel cargo boxes, but what you have looks perfect!

thanks!

 

[rnArmy]

The tub was built by a company on the east coast called "Diamond Deluxe". They build hunting dog boxes among other things. It's one of the best things I've done with my trailer.

http://www.diamonddeluxe.com/

 

[NnyDave]

My trailer is kind of a hybrid in that it's welded in some spots, bolted in others. The first thing I would do if building from scratch, I'd get rid of all the cheap Chineese bolts & replace them with zink coated grade 8 sae hardware.