Boreas Campers EOS12

rehammer81

Active member
Planning on a week long beach camping trip this December. EOS owners, how have you prepared your rigs for a campsite with no hookups? I’m thinking Home Depot bucket under the sink, but don’t know where I would empty it. Into shower drain is a possibility but will make the floor gross. Into the cassette and I’ll be emptying that cassette every other day. Maybe dump the bucket in the camp toilet? I wish there was a way to transfer easily into the grey tank.
Pouring a catch bucket into the shower seems the best idea if there is another dump option at the campsite. If you use a funnel with a wider spout that will stand up in the drain hole and poor slow enough you should be able to avoid getting the shower pan wet. Even better if you could find one with a wide rubber spout that would wedge into the hole.

If you are going to dump the cassette that often that that is also a pretty easy option.


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DFNDER

Active member
We camped at cape lookout for five days and just ran a hose into a trench in the sand. It’s just sink water with biodegradable detergent and we put all food scraps in the trash so not a problem. Otherwise, we’d put it in a bucket and use hand squeeze siphon pump and hose to drain right into the shower drain to keep the floor clean. Works great. When we’re in the woods, we have an extra long drain hose and run it away from camp.
 

Boreas Campers

Supporting Sponsor / Approved Vendor
Hey EOS12 owners, we are doing a presale for our custom EOS covers. They are going to retail for $1,150 but if you buy during the presale, we are going to sell for $1,000 plus tax and shipping.

This sale is going to run until 12/31. Get ahold of me before 12/31 and I will collect $1,000 plus tax and then will collect shipping after they are produced and I get a shipping quote. Production will happen about 3-4 weeks after 12/31.

The files are too large to share photos on here, but if you want photos email me at adam@boreascampers.com

Thanks!
 

singlethreaded

New member
Hey folks, have had my EOS for a few months now (loooove it!). I was wondering if anyone had any solutions they have tried for a couple things:
1. My pull out bed is a bit flimsy on the end. I have broken the rear-side seat legs and brackets twice now. Its' just not very stable for a sleepy person to step on it or scoot off it to go to the bathroom at night. I've thought about installing foldable support brackets or putting the entire bench on slide-out rails.

2. The faucet flow rate is way to high for boondocking like I do and it doesn't have great control using the faucet nob. Anyone install a flow restricter on there and know what size to get?

3. I'm nervous attaching things to the wall, anyone have any data on how strong the wall is with screws in it? Supportable weight? Is there a source to buy a scrap peice of wall to experiment on?

Chris
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Hey folks, have had my EOS for a few months now (loooove it!). I was wondering if anyone had any solutions they have tried for a couple things:
1. My pull out bed is a bit flimsy on the end. I have broken the rear-side seat legs and brackets twice now. Its' just not very stable for a sleepy person to step on it or scoot off it to go to the bathroom at night. I've thought about installing foldable support brackets or putting the entire bench on slide-out rails.

2. The faucet flow rate is way to high for boondocking like I do and it doesn't have great control using the faucet nob. Anyone install a flow restricter on there and know what size to get?

3. I'm nervous attaching things to the wall, anyone have any data on how strong the wall is with screws in it? Supportable weight? Is there a source to buy a scrap peice of wall to experiment on?

Chris

3. Call Boreas and ask what size frp bolt you would need. Not sure but I assume your walls are frp.

See pic
 

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DFNDER

Active member
I’ve attached several of the net pockets to the walls in the EOS and before that in our XT. I’m sure Adam can give advice on max load, but I’ve never had any issues with the net pockets coming loose with their standard wood screws. The walls are plenty strong enough for that kind of light storage. No t sure I’d want to try anything else. I installed L-track to the upper inside frames to hang heavier items.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
The frp bolts do require drilling a whole thru the entire wall so probably best for heavier items. My non eos trailer likely has skinnier walls. Mine are honeycomb as well so I am paranoid on wood screws.
 

singlethreaded

New member
I’ve attached several of the net pockets to the walls in the EOS and before that in our XT. I’m sure Adam can give advice on max load, but I’ve never had any issues with the net pockets coming loose with their standard wood screws. The walls are plenty strong enough for that kind of light storage. No t sure I’d want to try anything else. I installed L-track to the upper inside frames to hang heavier items.
Yeah, have some netting installed inside but I actually installed L-Track to the outside: using rings for my roll up kitchen organizer and hooks to hang spatchulas and knives. I used 1.25 inch self-drilling wood screws and it feels solid but I feel like the only thing holding it is the outside layer.
@Obsessed2findARuggedHybid - Boreas uses Transcore Panels like what Airstreams started using a couple years ago and there's all this marketing hype about them. Like they claim "Superior Screw Retention" over their previous plywood floors though most forums i've seen debate this. I've seen no datasheet to verify or confirm.

1704337221148.png
I'd prefer data or a junk peace to test breaking strength... in lue of that, I figure I can replace with rivets if the screws come lose on the trail or maybe I can even patch it up and replace them with a through bolt if it actually rips off. Hope these walls patch well...
 

rehammer81

Active member
I thought only the floor switched to Transcore but I could be wrong. The previous floor was similar to Transcore but not exactly the same. I thought the walls were still FRP, high density foam and composite ribs. I may be forgetting exactly what I saw when I picked up my 2022.

You notice that they use mostly rivets to fasten everything. Depending on how much load will be on them and ensuring you use the right size, that might be the best option. It's a commitment but you are already talking about running a screw in the wall. The FRP isn't that thick for a screw to have a lot of bite. I would think a rivet would be better.

I have yet to commit to putting any fastener holes in my walls. I tried Velcro wall nets but the adhesive under tension didn't hold up to the storage temps my trailer sees in the AZ summer. I'm going to use DFNDER's L-Track idea now for hanging storage.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
I thought only the floor switched to Transcore but I could be wrong. The previous floor was similar to Transcore but not exactly the same. I thought the walls were still FRP, high density foam and composite ribs. I may be forgetting exactly what I saw when I picked up my 2022.

You notice that they use mostly rivets to fasten everything. Depending on how much load will be on them and ensuring you use the right size, that might be the best option. It's a commitment but you are already talking about running a screw in the wall. The FRP isn't that thick for a screw to have a lot of bite. I would think a rivet would be better.

I have yet to commit to putting any fastener holes in my walls. I tried Velcro wall nets but the adhesive under tension didn't hold up to the storage temps my trailer sees in the AZ summer. I'm going to use DFNDER's L-Track idea now for hanging storage.


There might be a reason rivets would work better but the frp bolts sandwich the screw with rubber bolt and can be easily loosened or tightened.
 

rehammer81

Active member
FRP bolts would definitely work and probably the best option if you really need to hold some significant weight. Only drawback is putting a hole all the way through the wall.
 

singlethreaded

New member
So the rivots just shoot in but don't go through?
Blind rivets just go in half an inch and then expand/mushroom behind the rigid composite layer -- still not a through bolt but it will never come loose from vibration. Other than being irreversable (you can drill them out I guess), they are super easy to do with an $18 rivet gun. Other than the steel frame attachment, i don't see any obvious place that Boreas uses through-bolts (or FRP bolts). I see blind rivets everywhere though.

I don't have direct confirmation of what manufacturer makes these panels but the only water/mildew/bug/rot resistant, totally recyclable, no wood or fiberglass, foam-interior transcore panels for RVs I could find are built by Ridge Corp (the ones Airstream uses for their floors now), these use HERCULEAN™ structural foam inside which is a lot less secretative about their IP/trade secrets:

The linked datasheet in there is quite comprehensive: if this is that material, a #10 wood screw would need over 30 (H80 density) or 50 (H140 density) pounds of pressure to pull it out of the internal foam alone - that's not counting the hard laminate shell.

As a comparison: A #10 screw in drywall can be pulled out with 10-15 pounds of force, same screw with a drywall anchor can hold up to 50 pounds. Getting half the screw into a stud gives you over 100 pounds of pullout strength.
 

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