Brake help please!

Mayne

Explorer
I've installed a new dexter 3500# axel in my M416 and a Prodegy P2 in my 80 series. If I'm right, the brakes on the trailer should lock up easily as they're new, and I adjusted them slightly tight, but I barely get an assist from them. I get no error messages on the Prodegy, I've the power for it run through a 30amp breaker, the brake wire is soldered (10 gauge) all the way down the truck and relay so its key powered. The trailer hookup is grounded to the chassis, and again grounded on the tongue. (There's a ground to the truck, and connected at a second point to two soldered ring connectors onto the tongue making the wire continuous) The rest of the wiring is soldered and marine heat shrunk over it.

Where am I going wrong? And where should I be testing with a multimeter to figure it out.
Thanks
Mayne
 

Mayne

Explorer
May have it figured out... How counter intuitive is it that you need to smoke a new set of brakes before they even begin to work?

Thanks
Mayne
 

Mayne

Explorer
The axel came fully assembled direct from Dexter. It might be possible they swapped it around, but prolly pretty slim on it. The brakes are working a bit better this morning as I put a manual drag on them on the way to work.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Doesn't sound right. You should be able to slow the vehicle down and or lock the wheels up by turning up the controller. Sounds like either the brakes are not adjusted correctly or you have weak magnets. If you jack the trailer up so one wheel is off the ground, apply the brakes, and try to spin the wheel what happens? What happens when you do the same thing but apply a direct 12 volt current to the brake circuit?
 

brian90744

American Trekker
Those brake sets are left and right only.[/QUOTE] If you installed the axle 180 degrees off, brake magnets will not work to stop the trailer. You may pull a brake drum to check. Or do what Martyn said and If you jack the trailer up so one wheel is off the ground, apply the brakes, and try to spin the wheel what happens, if the brakes work spinning the wheel backwards, your 180 off.
just FYI=brian
 
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Mayne

Explorer
I have an axel setup with a parking brake, so it can only go one way with the cable brackets. Sorry, should have mentioned that.

The brakes stop the wheel in the air, and my multi meter says I'm getting 12v to each wheel from the controller at the wheels. I'm not getting large volt reading alla sub 1 volt from the ground side at the wheels.
With the controller gain turned all the way up it does slow the vehicle down with the manual brake lever, just not very impressed.
Mayne
Sooo... Bad magnet?
 

green73brc

Observer
i have the same issue. 3500 lb dexter axle. Around 2500lb maybe loaded. It will slow down the tow vehicle but I can not lock up the breaks. I am not sure but I think having grippier 4x4 tires in the rear allows for better traction than an slightly unloaded trailer with trailer style tires. That is my theory anyway.

All I want it to be able to do is take the major brake work off the tow vehicle but not lock up and fishtail. Also allowing in a 4x4 situation to not have the trailer push the vehicle. I can tell a difference with it big time when I have no brake hookup so I figured it is doing its job.
 

cs0430

Member
From Dexter FAQ:

BRAKES - Why can't I lock and slide my electric brakes?
On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes. When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards. All of our brakes will perform better after numerous burnish stops to seat the brake linings to the drums.
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
I had the same kinds of issues with my trailer. On my car trailer with dual 3500lb axles, I can easily lock them up when empty using the manual switch on the controller and put a LOT of stopping force even when fully loaded. On my camper trailer, with 35" tires, I can definitely feel it pulling on the truck, but nowhere near as good as my car trailer. Like you, I've checked everything and taken the entire hub assembly apart and everything is assembled correctly. I think the main difference is the size of the wheels/tires I have on it. All that weight and mechanical advantage on the brakes has dis-advantages, just like on the trucks we put them on. On the plus size, while the brakes did take a while to break in, they do work a good bit better now than when they were new.

One more thing, like all drum style brakes, they also have an adjustment lever, so make sure that they are set correctly without dragging. You'll know if you have them set too tight because it will basically make the drums glow red after a few miles on the highway, ask me how I know, and how hard it is to back them off on the side of the highway with a pocket knife... :eek:)

Don

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Mayne

Explorer
Thanks for the help guys. I got them working. I had to drag the brakes down the expressway at 45mph for about 12 miles, but after that heat cycle, they perform to expected satisfaction.
Saw it on a Google search in Pirate of all places, and it worked.
Re adjusted the wheel bearings to spec and the brakes as well.
Mayne
 

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