Brakes/rotors on 03' Taco

[climber-420]

So I installed new brake pads and rotors on my 2003 Taco the other day, bled the brakes a little, and the pedal still seems spongey. Is this a normal thing for tacomas? I searched tacomaworld, and not a whole lot on the topic over there. I called the dealership here in town and they want $50 just to look at it. I figured someone on here could help me out a bit. Does the line still need to be bled more? What can I do to get the pedal to be stiffer. You'd think you change out everything, and the brake pedal would not still be so giving. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[seanz0rz]

the pedal should not be spongy.

do you have any sort of traction control?

otherwise, just bleed the right rear until no bubbles come out, bleed the left rear, right front, and finally the left front. (its not a bad idea to do this anyway, gets all that old nasty fluid out of the way)

 

[climber-420]

the fluid is crystal clear. not nasty at all. i think we did the bleeding wrong the first time. we started right by the master cylinder, and shouldn't have. i will have to retry this and start from the back right like you said. thanks for the response.

 

[SAR_Squid79]

I have worked and re-worked the brakes on my Tacoma about 4 times now. To me they always feel a little spongy, and I've never been 100% happy with my truck's braking.

The next step (which will probably be a while) is the front Tundra brake conversion, and rear disk brake conversion.

 

[taco chaser]

If your rig is an 03 it has ABS and when bleeding an ABS system you need constant pressure using a pressure bleeder. Traditional bleeding will not work, the pedal will feel soft... :sombrero: So why did you bleed your brakes if you just changed pads n rotors ??? One step to many.. :ylsmoke:

 

[climber-420]

changed pads and rotors.

 

[atavuss]

you don't really need to bleed the system unless you open the lines, like replacing the master cylinder or a caliper, brake hose, wheel cylinder, etc.
I have used a "vacula" vacuum pump or even a Mity Vac with a brake bleeder adaptor, both with good results.

 

[taco chaser]

changed pads and rotors.

Yeah got that....you don't need to bleed the system when changing pads and rotors dummie :drool:. ABS requires constant pressure when being bled by using a pressure bleeder at about 15 to 17 PSI. You just created more work for yourself and spent more money by cracking the lines...

you don't really need to bleed the system unless you open the lines, like replacing the master cylinder or a caliper, brake hose, wheel cylinder, etc.
I have used a "vacula" vacuum pump or even a Mity Vac with a brake bleeder adaptor, both with good results.

Is there an echo around here :sombrero: