Brakes upgrade Gen 2.5

freewayross

Adventurer
Hi all, was wondering if there are any upgrades anyone has done here for Gen 2.5? I have 33" on new akebono pads all round and new rotors/ calipers in front. Bled the system. But I still feel the braking is not good enough, also it's a little spongy. Always have to keep extra distance from other cars in freeways :smilies27 which pisses other people behind me.

Also any tips on how I can reduce dip of the front end while braking? I have new dampers in front.

Thanks
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Did you bleed the load sensing proportioning valve? You might want to start there and get someone to help you bled the system.
 
Last edited:

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Also if your truck has to much dive it could be you have weak front springs or weak shocks like Gabriel or Monroe. I'm working on some brake upgrade technical writeups as well as upgrade parts to go on the website to make it easy to buy what you need. Until then i think you have other problems you need to solve before trying upgrades.
 

freewayross

Adventurer
Did you bleed the load sensing proportioning valve? You might want to start there and get someone to help you bled the system.

I haven't bled that, thank you for the pointer. Let's see if that helps

Also if your truck has to much dive it could be you have weak front springs or weak shocks like Gabriel or Monroe. I'm working on some brake upgrade technical writeups as well as upgrade parts to go on the website to make it easy to buy what you need. Until then i think you have other problems you need to solve before trying upgrades.

I have KYB GAS A Just (think that's what they are called) in front, they are about an year old. Do you think KYB MONOMAX would help with this?

I will stay tuned for the upgrade you are coming with.

Thanks
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
KYB's are super stiff, not your problem. Are your front outer axles higher than the inners?

Also, could it be that this is your first SUV? We once spent a decent amount of time trying to troubleshoot an issue a guy was having on his brand new Montero "i feel like I'm going to fly off the road!". It would align perfect, drive perfect and take high speed turns like a champ. We could not duplicate the problem he was having. Come to find out he had only owned FWD cars before and was unhappy with how a truck handles.
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
Yup, these sure ain't built to handle like a sports car. And if you expect to follow closer even with "better brakes" then you may wish to invest in some common sense instead.
 

freewayross

Adventurer
Yup, these sure ain't built to handle like a sports car. And if you expect to follow closer even with "better brakes" then you may wish to invest in some common sense instead.

I did say "Extra distance" and never expressed following close!

KYB's are super stiff, not your problem. Are your front outer axles higher than the inners?

Also, could it be that this is your first SUV? We once spent a decent amount of time trying to troubleshoot an issue a guy was having on his brand new Montero "i feel like I'm going to fly off the road!". It would align perfect, drive perfect and take high speed turns like a champ. We could not duplicate the problem he was having. Come to find out he had only owned FWD cars before and was unhappy with how a truck handles.

Per your tip I did I bleed the LSPV and there were Air bubbles in it. Thank you for the tip. But I still feel it's spongy, but you could be right may be I'm expecting too much and the bigger tires don't help.

I'll bleed the whole system once more and live with it.:smiley_drive:
 

JohnnyBfromPeoria

I'm Getting Around To It
What condition are your soft lines in? They are regular replacement items and aren't costly. Have an assistant pump the brakes and check them.

John B.
 
you have air in the system.

keep bleeding, or pressure bleed. . its nearly impossible in some cases to get air out. keep pushing fluid through it.
check for wet areas around brake lines ... air intrusion.

use a quart of fluid is not uncommon. on a relatively small system.
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Yeah it took me maybe four tries to get all the air out of my system after new front calipers.
 

freewayross

Adventurer
Think I missed an important info in the above thread. My "Anti Lock" light is on. It has been ever since I took my dash out to replace the Heater core, also had the "SRS" at the same time which I was able to reset and it never came back. The mechanics tool was not able to reset the "Anti Lock" and gave out error codes about speed sensors.
But I thought that could be BS as I did not have the "Anti Lock" light on before Dash disassembly, so how can the sensors go bad right after?

I know I lose the anti skid feature with the light on, but will it make my brakes less effective during normal braking? Any tips on what tool to use to reset the error code? I want to reset it and see if it comes back or not, before I start spending money on parts!

Thanks
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
I'm surprised your mechanic's scan tool couldn't clear ABS codes. Having your ABS system disabled shouldn't impact your stopping power under the conditions you describe. ABS doesn't interfere with braking until you start to lock a wheel up in a skid.
 

RyanY

Adventurer
Per your tip I did I bleed the LSPV and there were Air bubbles in it. Thank you for the tip. But I still feel it's spongy, but you could be right may be I'm expecting too much and the bigger tires don't help.

I'll bleed the whole system once more and live with it.:smiley_drive:

There is a specific order that the system is supposed to be bled in - detailed instructions are in the FSM.

If you bleed it with the correct procedure and still feel the pedal is spongy, you may have a flexible brake hose that's either leaking or expanding under brake pressure.
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
By law I believe that mechanics cannot clear an ABS code unless the issue causing the code has been remedied, as it is an indicator of a problematic safety issue and cannot be tampered with in a professional capacity, same goes for any other engine error code. That being said, you can buy one of the nicer scanner units for yourself that clears ABS codes, but the light may just come right back on because the issue causing the light to come on has not been fixed.
 

freewayross

Adventurer
By law I believe that mechanics cannot clear an ABS code unless the issue causing the code has been remedied, as it is an indicator of a problematic safety issue and cannot be tampered with in a professional capacity, same goes for any other engine error code. That being said, you can buy one of the nicer scanner units for yourself that clears ABS codes, but the light may just come right back on because the issue causing the light to come on has not been fixed.

Completely agree and it's a safety issue too, but as I said. "SRS" and "Anti Lock" both triggered when I had to take the dash apart and had to disconnect and connect the ecu for "SRS" and "ABS". Which i thought was because of user error. And the "SRS" hasn't come back since July, 2016 when it was reset. I understand those tools are very expensive/ beyond my means to buy.
 

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