Breaking a bead with the Hi-Lift?

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
So, I got more crap jammed into my sidewalls making my tires leak. I decided to try breaking the bead off to clean properly, and what better way to practice with the HiLift than in the safety of my garage.

I don't have that special HiLift bead tool, I figured just having the foot of the jack on the sidewall would be enough. But, no dice. I lifted the back of the truck off the ground, and the bead didn't come off.

Was it the lack of the special tool? And if so, why? I really don't see why that thing would make a big difference?

Is it just really hard to do?
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
yes it is hard to do..
I remember as part of our Overland Training Cert Class we had to learn about breaking & seating a bead, it is tough.
With a Hi Lift you have to get a corner or the entire foot right up to the edge of the rim.
Another option if you have already changed to your spare and are just wanting to repair the damaged tire as your new spare is to drive over the tire to break the bead.
Of course having a set of Tyre Plyers from Extreme Outback makes it much much easier to do, enough that I as an amputee was able to make it happen.
If I had to carry a dedicated tool I would rather the tyre plyers as they could serve more "other" purposed than the Hi Lift tire breaker base.
 

tdesanto

Expedition Leader
The Tyrepliers are awesome for sure. I got them too after getting a chance to see how well they worked.

I'm surprised, though, that the hi-lift didn't do the trick with all the air out of the tire and the valve core removed. So, it just squished the tire and then lifted the back end of the truck up, but didn't break the bead enough to get a couple tire irons in there?

Maybe getting pressure right against the bead really is that important. I haven't tried that yet with a hi-lift.
 

The Adam Blaster

Expedition Leader
A few years back I punctured a tire, and we wanted to patch it it properly, so we layed it on a cement driveway and started to drive over it.
It took about 5-6 passes to get right up against the rim and pop the bead off.
We had tire irons and pulled it right off the rim so we could buff the spot on the inside and get the patch to seal really nicely.
Levered the tire back on, and then used a ratchet strap to squish the center and push the bead against the rim. Then lots of air and fast! lol

In the future I'd much rather pay a shop 20 bucks to do it. ;)
 

Patman

Explorer
I know on alloys like your's it seems to be more difficult to get close to the bead with a normal hilift foot, but not undoable. One thing that has helped me in the past is to put some air in the tire, just a couple of psi. This helps push the foot towards the rim under load instead of it sliding out.

Tirepliers rock, but you can only use the tools you have, its always fun to make it work.
 

01tundra

Explorer
Even with beadlocks I have to use my highlift to break the bead. It usually takes three spots to break them off the bead. I also typically spray the tire bead down with a soap/water solution. I go util the truck's almost off the ground, then drop the jack and rotate the wheel 1/3 and do it again, then one final time will usually get it to break. Want to obviously get the jack foot as close to the rim as possible. Some tire/wheels combos are easier than others.

I also have a tire bead breaker tool I picked up at Northern Tool a few years ago that works pretty good for the stubborn ones.

I've changed my own tires for several years now......good times :)!

Tire bead breaker tool -


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This topic is intriguing.... how does one get the tire back on the bead after you pop it off?

I have heard of some pretty scary idea (to me at least) like brake parts cleaner and a match...:Wow1:

are there any youtube videos you guys know about?
 

Wyowanderer

Explorer
:)
This topic is intriguing.... how does one get the tire back on the bead after you pop it off?

I have heard of some pretty scary idea (to me at least) like brake parts cleaner and a match...:Wow1:

are there any youtube videos you guys know about?

Once you're finished working on the tire, you lubricate the bead with soapy water and air it up. The bead will pop right into place. It's best done in a "cage" for safety, but millions have been installed without one.
Once the bead is in place, air up the tire, check for leaks, balance the tire (you marked the position of the weights you removed, right?:)) and you're done.
 

Maximus Ram

Expedition Leader
This topic is intriguing.... how does one get the tire back on the bead after you pop it off?

I have heard of some pretty scary idea (to me at least) like brake parts cleaner and a match...:Wow1:

are there any youtube videos you guys know about?

Here's one..

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzbgyRrQybQ&feature=related"]YouTube - REDNECK TIRE MOUNTING[/ame]

there are more and some are good examples of what not to do.
 

01tundra

Explorer
I've assisted with the starter fluid and match trick on a backhoe tire, but it made me really nervous and I wouldn't recommend it and would only consider using that technique in an extreme emergency situation.

On my truck tires I grab a spray bottle and put a mixture of 50% liquid dish soap and 50% water in it. Spray the beads down good.

Helps to pull the valve core and have the tire/wheel standing up so you can basically lay over it and put downward pressure on the tire. If that doesn't work, take a ratchet strap and put it around the tire dead center and ratchet it down as tight as you can, but once the tire starts seating and taking air, be sure to remove the strap.........ask me how I know ;).

A CO2 tank set up works well for seating tires because of the quick, large air volume delivery capabilities......but I'm usually too cheap and lazy and opt to use my shop compressor.

In four hours I've manually removed five 37's and installed five 40's, all by hand with a hi-lift and a spray bottle full of soapy water......and a sore back :).
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
i have found that a ratchet strap around the thread of the tire helps along with a rapid shot of air from the Extreme Outback compressor run into a 2 gal tank. Having the valve core out allows a greater volume of air to enter
 
Interesting experiences with the hi-lift.

I can see I need to give it a try in the safety of my garage sometime.

As regards the re-mounting....well, we really needed to get some autocross tires mounted.

Of course this is late at night during college.

We weren't having any luck getting the bead to seat with our little compressor.

The only place open was the truck stop out on the highway.

The tire monkey tries his giant compressor, tries that thing we used to wrap around the tire and fill with air - don't recall the name - all without success.

He's taking this as a personal challenge by this time.

Walks across the shop and grabs the biggest can of starting fluid (ether) that I've ever seen.

Hoses the tire down, takes a couple of steps back - hey by this time we're behind him, being geenius college boys - and tosses his lit cigarette at the tire....WHAMMO...there ya' go boys!

Man, that'll wake you up :)
 

The Adam Blaster

Expedition Leader
Whatever method you use to seat the bead, you should really stand at least a few feet back from the tire. Guys are hurt - seriously hurt - every year in tire shops when a tire zippers open while trying to seat the bead, and the guy is standing too close to it.
I get pictures all the time from our safety department of damaged equipment when a tire blows. I like getting those pictures over the ones where a tire tech gets hurt. :(

In regards to the ether/lighter/brake fluid method, while lots of fun to try on the trail or after a few drinks, it's not something you want to put your tires through too often.
Surprise, surprise, tires don't like to be set on fire! :campfire:


The inner liner deteriotes quite quickly from the heat.
So, if you're stuck and have no other means at your disposal, light 'er up and do it safely.
But, if you have any other method available, try that first or else your expensive tires may not last quite as long as they should. ;)
 

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