Budget Build thread for the Sub2k2k - I'll explain....

[hilgeg]

The best laid plans are on a shoestring budget and under an impossible deadline, right?
Sub2k2k was my dumb name for a tent trailer that I had 10 days to build, $2k budget, and a max weight of 2000 lbs. So let's get started!
Originally I had 4 weeks before a planned camping trip and have been wanting an adventure trailer since the summer. Craigslist and FB Marketplace kept letting me down. Either the trailer was WAY too expensive, or it sold before I could get the location. With only 10 days to go I found this gem for $400. At least what metal that was left included the tub.

As soon as I got home it was stripping time. All wood, rusty metal and the likes. I did not like what I saw.

Trip one of three to the steel yard for new stringers front to back, then a trip to Home Depot for plywood, Harbor Freight for lights, and Napa for bed-liner and something resembling a trailer started to emerge.

 

[hilgeg]

Strip and weld the tongue and add a truck box

Build walls and a box and start a tailgate (this proves to be a sticking point and one I still need to address. Also start the tent and awning supports.

Sheetmetal and hang the tailgate and pin it on the far side because the hinges and trailer metal are not strong enough to hold jack-crap (rookie mistake). Create cross-brace for tent. Needed some flexibility because 22" linear actuators will be used to raise tent and awning.

 

[hilgeg]

Amazon order and a 100ahr battery laying around in the garage and electronics are taken care of (fuse block, cut-off, dc to dc charger, actuator controller)

Another amazon order for drawer slides and a fold-out sink. Save money by using spare counter tops and plywood (I told you this was budget!)
Mount existing rack fabricated for truck that supports the awning.

Score some $50 craigslist wheels and tires and paint them copper because it is what color you have in your garage, move it inside because Oregon weather sucks. Please note my awesome spacers to get the tent deck level. Also add a tongue jack.

 

[hilgeg]

Mount the tent and add the actuators. (lots of wiring)

Mount the trash-a-roo. Check wiring, grease bearings, inflate tires, pray you didn't forget anything because you leave for camping in 8hrs.
Tow it 300 miles looking in your rear-view for parts to fall off. Realize that you love the way it pulls and that the tires are even balanced properly!

 

[hilgeg]

Camp in it and love it, but start making your list of things to improve. Yes I realize it looks like the Clampit's built it.


Realize as you sleep that thin leaf-springs and no trailer jacks means rocking yourself to sleep.


I'll update as I strengthen and re-hang the tailgate and add a tire mount. Also I need shocks bad. It was bouncing a ton over the rugged terrain we covered. Also, trailer jacks at the back to level.
Other than that I stayed under the $2k budget, weight wise not sure but it towed like it wasn't there.

 

[NatersXJ6]

It looks fun and functional. Nice hitting the price point for sure.

Are you having any problems with stuff vibrating out of the plywood backplate for electrics? I’ve fought that before.

Does the lid open? It looks like no? Have you considered an access panel in case something falls off the slide at the blind front of the trailer?

 

[hilgeg]

It looks fun and functional. Nice hitting the price point for sure.

Are you having any problems with stuff vibrating out of the plywood backplate for electrics? I’ve fought that before.

Does the lid open? It looks like no? Have you considered an access panel in case something falls off the slide at the blind front of the trailer?

So the plywood backing plate is tech-screwed through the metal and also glued. Components are then wood-screwed with RTV to try and prevent that. So far so good.

The lid actually does open. Well - the front 1/3 anyway. You can see some trigger releases on the front of the box. There is a design flaw though - because it is hinged I can only access the contents when the tent is raised. I'll probably omit the hinges and just trigger release the whole hatch for ease of use.

One other thing I need to do is drill holes for hitch pins at all 4 corners to allow the rack to take the load of the tent instead of the rods on the linear actuators. Basically nothing works the way you dream it up on paper or in your head.