Build planning and questions
- Thread starter SethJ
- Start date
Went digging in my scrap today and found the old axles from my current lowboy. Also found a shorter one from a different trailer. The long ones are both 3500lb axles and are slightly bent. We replaced those with 6500 lb axles. Also found some springs, I think they are 3500lb springs. Found a coupler as well. One brake was full of dirt and rusted pretty bad and the other one was a little rusted but not as bad. Hopefully I can salvage them. I will probably use the shorter one since it does not seem to be bent.
You might have some issues - quite a few places will frown upon draining into the ditch... make sure that you have a plan to drain into something instead of loose....
I will probably have a jug or something. Haven't had a problem washing dishes at state parks at the Water spoute yet.
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Shifting gears a little bit, decided to go with an enclosed cargo trailer for the base to save time and possibly money. Since we were aiming for a 5x10 cabin it would be simpler to just buy a 5x10 cargo trailer. With school and work it would take a while to get this trailer built from the ground up and we would be time and money ahead buying the box pre-built and outfit it to our needs. Most of the trailers weigh less than 1000# empty and come with doors and can often be special ordered. Hope to look at some this weekend.
axle location
Consider make the axle on a separate (subframe) assy that can be moved back and forth and bolted in place after axle placement is determined. Plan on making a couple test tows with you normally loaded trailer, try different axle placements, fab up fenders when location is fixed.
I've seen this on boat trailers, it allows the them to make a generic trailer. Depending on the boat's weight distribution, the axle can be moved to the ideal location.
Remember a trailer with the wheels far back will be the easiest to back up, and will tow the best at highway speeds. Put the axle too far back and you'll have too much tongue weight.
Consider make the axle on a separate (subframe) assy that can be moved back and forth and bolted in place after axle placement is determined. Plan on making a couple test tows with you normally loaded trailer, try different axle placements, fab up fenders when location is fixed.
I've seen this on boat trailers, it allows the them to make a generic trailer. Depending on the boat's weight distribution, the axle can be moved to the ideal location.
Remember a trailer with the wheels far back will be the easiest to back up, and will tow the best at highway speeds. Put the axle too far back and you'll have too much tongue weight.
Look into your design and the expected total weight above the axle. Your springs might be a bit too stiff for what youh are building. I currently have that problem with my trailer.
Sorry about the lack of posts this week, I've been lazy. This past weekend my brother and I took a trip to Houston and checked out some cargo trailers and a 5x10 enclosed trailer is going to be perfect for what we want to do. I'm going to call around and get some quotes on ordering one with RV handles, 6x5.5 hubs and an unfinished interior. Trying to go as bare bones as possible to initial cost down.
My brother for scale.
Also checked out some Casitas at PPLmotorhomes in sugarland.
My brother for scale.
Also checked out some Casitas at PPLmotorhomes in sugarland.
Been a while since the last post, still looking for a trailer. Decided to try and find a used trailer but have yet to come across a decent one. Also trying to keep an eye out for a m101 trailer. Looked at one today but it was in rough shape.
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southpier
Expedition Leader
Thank you, very interesting and helpful.
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ottsville
Observer
Condensation is almost always an issue when you are sleeping in a small space with limited airflow. Breathing releases a lot of moisture into the air which will condense on any cooler surface. Even in winter we keep a window cracked with three people sleeping in a 17' camper. Plan windows and/or a roof vent in your camper.