Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Yeah I saw that. Looks all wrong for the pre-1992 vans due to filler neck, etc but tough to tell from those single line drawings. Good luck. Interesting!
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Build Thread - 1990 Ford E-250 4x4 7.3 Pathfinder with a Falcon body swap.
- Thread starter bugwhacker
- Start date
bugwhacker
Observer
I made it to the salvage yard today (6 degrees!!!) and pulled myself a 85 diesel truck cluster with a tach just to see how close they are to the vans. The plastic is completely wrong but the electronics are very close.... I did work out that the clusters from the 70's ford trucks and broncos fit the vans all the way up until 1990-ish but none of them came with a tach either. Ford trucks 1973- 1979, 1975 - 1989 E-series Van, 1978 - 1979 Ford Bronco clusters are all interchangeable with the possibility of some wiring changes. The other options for a cluster that physically fit but don't know what it would take to hook them up (They are digital) are the Grand Marquis and some Lincoln town cars. So it looks like an easy bolt in factory tach is not to be had.
So the options for a factory look cluster with a tach are not good. I see 2 options without going too crazy.
1,) Order a $600 digital Cluster from Dakota Digital Dashes. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=606/category_id=437/mode=prod/prd606.htm
2.) Hack up my pickup cluster and a van cluster and glue it all together. If I do that I get to keep all analog gauges which I can replace from the salvage yards if I need to. The electronics are close enough that I know I can make them work. I will need to relocate turn signals and some idiot lights but it is doable. Cost $30 plus time spent.
This dash was put together by a guy on here but I can only find this picture and no reference as to who it was. Anyone know?
I am leaning towards modifying the pickup cluster but there are some nice things about the aftermarket cluster - you can add modules to it like trans temp, pyro temps, boost, a compass. If I could score one for a couple a $100 I would seriously think about it just for the slickness of the install but I really like analog gauges. I will most likely be putting an a-pillar gauge pod to hold extra gauges and keeping a factory cluster. I am also looking at 3 gauge cluster pod to mount on to the dash in front of the steering wheel - http://www.autometer.com/universal-triple-2-h1-16-dash-pod.html.
So the options for a factory look cluster with a tach are not good. I see 2 options without going too crazy.
1,) Order a $600 digital Cluster from Dakota Digital Dashes. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=606/category_id=437/mode=prod/prd606.htm
2.) Hack up my pickup cluster and a van cluster and glue it all together. If I do that I get to keep all analog gauges which I can replace from the salvage yards if I need to. The electronics are close enough that I know I can make them work. I will need to relocate turn signals and some idiot lights but it is doable. Cost $30 plus time spent.
This dash was put together by a guy on here but I can only find this picture and no reference as to who it was. Anyone know?
I am leaning towards modifying the pickup cluster but there are some nice things about the aftermarket cluster - you can add modules to it like trans temp, pyro temps, boost, a compass. If I could score one for a couple a $100 I would seriously think about it just for the slickness of the install but I really like analog gauges. I will most likely be putting an a-pillar gauge pod to hold extra gauges and keeping a factory cluster. I am also looking at 3 gauge cluster pod to mount on to the dash in front of the steering wheel - http://www.autometer.com/universal-triple-2-h1-16-dash-pod.html.
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Diesel Tiny Tach is the way to go. Trust me. I've been down this road and it is a dead end.
http://www.tinytach.com/
As for the large fuel tank...I'm watching
eepwall:
SG
http://www.tinytach.com/
As for the large fuel tank...I'm watching
eepwall:SG
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Would a 35 gal tank from a ambulance package E-350 fit behind the rear axle? Standard in 97 (and a range of other years).
bugwhacker
Observer
A far as I can tell they will. The 55 gallon one you have to have at least a 18 inch frame extension to make it fit - the same size as the supervan body on the extended wheelbase. Or what the frame is under the B-190 class B motorhome.
Spence is correct...I used to have one on my van....When I went thru it (still ongoing but back on the road)......I went with new gauges from summit-VDO and built a new aluminum dash and overhead cluster....and got a tach/pyro/trans/boost...etc...You want a new alternator anyway...make sure you get one that you can tap the tach into it....as for speedo...I went with a GPS sensor so I didn't have to go thru the pain with my E4OD (Which by the way came with my 1990 E350 new). Once I put the manual trans in, I will attach speedo directly to it....cuz their are minor issues with speedo and GPS sensor..i.e.tunnels/losing signal in canyons...
If he is planning on keeping the B190/Falcon functionallity all of the waste tanks are mounted behind the rear axle.
bugwhacker
Observer
As far as a speedo goes I plan on using the mechanical speedo output on my NP205.
I measured out the tank I was looking at and it is only 35 gallons, still looking for a monster.
If the 55 gallon tank interferes with the holding tank I will have to get a different holding tank set-up. Those are a lot easier to get then fuel tanks.
I measured out the tank I was looking at and it is only 35 gallons, still looking for a monster.
If the 55 gallon tank interferes with the holding tank I will have to get a different holding tank set-up. Those are a lot easier to get then fuel tanks.
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bugwhacker
Observer
Bought my Falcon for the swap - pic
$1500 and only 40 miles from the house. Body is in really good shape with only very minor rust easily fixed. Interior is not great but it has the under body tank layout I wanted with side mounted waste tanks rather then between the rails in back. I am planning a whole new interior anyway. Driving it home Saturday.
$1,800 4x4 donor van with 7.3
$1,500 Falcon van
=====
$3,300 So far in this build.
The Falcon runs and drivers great with the gas motor so I am thinking I might go ahead and do a double body swap and end up with a Van for sale for $1,500. But I will most likely just scrap out the body/frame and part out the motor/tranny. Maybe I can find a shop to help with the body swap in exchange for whats left over?
$1500 and only 40 miles from the house. Body is in really good shape with only very minor rust easily fixed. Interior is not great but it has the under body tank layout I wanted with side mounted waste tanks rather then between the rails in back. I am planning a whole new interior anyway. Driving it home Saturday.
$1,800 4x4 donor van with 7.3
$1,500 Falcon van
=====
$3,300 So far in this build.
The Falcon runs and drivers great with the gas motor so I am thinking I might go ahead and do a double body swap and end up with a Van for sale for $1,500. But I will most likely just scrap out the body/frame and part out the motor/tranny. Maybe I can find a shop to help with the body swap in exchange for whats left over?
Attachments
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bugwhacker
Observer
bugwhacker
Observer
I got the Falcon home. It runs fantastic... too bad its a gas unit. At least I can recover some of the money its going to take to do the body swap by selling the motor transmission and scrap! Wish I knew someone with a post lift to do the swap at but I will most likely end up paying to rent a slot in a garage.
I need to strip the interior as I don't want any part of it. Starting with a clean shell. I am 6'5" and the layout really doesn't work for me. Climbing up into the roof bunk is damn near impossible for me once it is stretched out to full length and it very very funny watching me trying to get down from there. No way in hell will I be able to do it once I get a little older. The rear bed is only the width of the body so it wont work for me either. So the idea is a rear custom rock-n-roll bed big enough for me that I can fold up for 3rd/4th passenger seating
Then use the upper bunk for cabinet storage/microwave/TV area after cutting it back as shallow as I can above the driving area. The rest of it I haven't really thought out yet.
Since I am tall I would love to be able to stand up while I cook and shower. I am thinking of having the cooking area behind the driver seat with the shower area in in the doorway behind the passenger seat that uses a curtain like I have seen a few people do.
with an enclosed toilet area behind it.
I need to strip the interior as I don't want any part of it. Starting with a clean shell. I am 6'5" and the layout really doesn't work for me. Climbing up into the roof bunk is damn near impossible for me once it is stretched out to full length and it very very funny watching me trying to get down from there. No way in hell will I be able to do it once I get a little older. The rear bed is only the width of the body so it wont work for me either. So the idea is a rear custom rock-n-roll bed big enough for me that I can fold up for 3rd/4th passenger seating
Then use the upper bunk for cabinet storage/microwave/TV area after cutting it back as shallow as I can above the driving area. The rest of it I haven't really thought out yet.
Since I am tall I would love to be able to stand up while I cook and shower. I am thinking of having the cooking area behind the driver seat with the shower area in in the doorway behind the passenger seat that uses a curtain like I have seen a few people do.
with an enclosed toilet area behind it.
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bugwhacker
Observer
AC parts for larger cabin air system
It was half off day at the local pick and pull junk yard and I decided to gather up some parts for my project. I plan on doing lots of time driving in hot/humid places and I really love good AC.
First things first on these old vans that are R-12 units that most likely have been converted to 134a - the condenser is undersized after the switch and cooling really suffers because of it. Since I will be opening my system up anyway when I do my body swap I might as well update the condenser to a modern high efficiency Parallel flow type unit so I set out hunting the junkyards until I found the perfect unit.
The 2001 - 2004 Caravan or Town & Country. Its the right size, Its 134a, it has nice mounting bosses on the sides, uses Block fittings which I prefer but to each their own on that.
Here are some pics of it loosely installed in a 1988 E-250.
With Core support shelf installed. Hood latch fits fine.
About as big as could possibly fit and a nice thick 1" unit too.
These Units come with a nice transmission cooler, think I will use 2 of them they fit nice.
Block Fittings will have to feed through a hole cut in the core support.
Mopar part number for condenser.
Mopar part number for the transmission cooler.
This condenser is the largest most efficient unit I can find including aftermarket universal units. If is a far better unit then the stock one and even better then the serpentine path one used in the newer E-series. If you wanted even more condensor power you can always add another one in series like is done on some cars like this 2000 Caravan unit.
Notice the added small condenser in series in the upper left corner. Yes it is factory they are all like that if they came with factory rear air. These years of condensers for the Caravan only had about a 3/4" thick condenser.
I also found myself a nice rear air unit out of a 2012 Ford Bus that is a cabinet mount unit. Its 134a also. 43k Btu Heat / 36k Btu Cool
Now I am looking for the dealer installed engine ac bracket that was used on the 7.3 IDI when rear air was added after the factory. It mounts a Sanden sd709 compressor or I might have to modify my existing bracket if I cant find one as mine came with factory rear air.
Additional parts needed - New front ac evaporator core, new fabbed aluminum line sets, new accumulator/dryer - I am going to use a large one from a Semi unit to allow a little more time at the stop lights in high ambient temps. I am sticking with orifice style metering and not using TXV valves, I have never cared for them as they fail far too often. I prefer an orifice and large accumulator then use fan speed to set cooling temp in the cabin.
It was half off day at the local pick and pull junk yard and I decided to gather up some parts for my project. I plan on doing lots of time driving in hot/humid places and I really love good AC.
First things first on these old vans that are R-12 units that most likely have been converted to 134a - the condenser is undersized after the switch and cooling really suffers because of it. Since I will be opening my system up anyway when I do my body swap I might as well update the condenser to a modern high efficiency Parallel flow type unit so I set out hunting the junkyards until I found the perfect unit.
The 2001 - 2004 Caravan or Town & Country. Its the right size, Its 134a, it has nice mounting bosses on the sides, uses Block fittings which I prefer but to each their own on that.
Here are some pics of it loosely installed in a 1988 E-250.
With Core support shelf installed. Hood latch fits fine. About as big as could possibly fit and a nice thick 1" unit too. These Units come with a nice transmission cooler, think I will use 2 of them they fit nice. Block Fittings will have to feed through a hole cut in the core support. Mopar part number for condenser. Mopar part number for the transmission cooler.This condenser is the largest most efficient unit I can find including aftermarket universal units. If is a far better unit then the stock one and even better then the serpentine path one used in the newer E-series. If you wanted even more condensor power you can always add another one in series like is done on some cars like this 2000 Caravan unit.
Notice the added small condenser in series in the upper left corner. Yes it is factory they are all like that if they came with factory rear air. These years of condensers for the Caravan only had about a 3/4" thick condenser.I also found myself a nice rear air unit out of a 2012 Ford Bus that is a cabinet mount unit. Its 134a also. 43k Btu Heat / 36k Btu Cool
Now I am looking for the dealer installed engine ac bracket that was used on the 7.3 IDI when rear air was added after the factory. It mounts a Sanden sd709 compressor or I might have to modify my existing bracket if I cant find one as mine came with factory rear air.
Additional parts needed - New front ac evaporator core, new fabbed aluminum line sets, new accumulator/dryer - I am going to use a large one from a Semi unit to allow a little more time at the stop lights in high ambient temps. I am sticking with orifice style metering and not using TXV valves, I have never cared for them as they fail far too often. I prefer an orifice and large accumulator then use fan speed to set cooling temp in the cabin.
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bugwhacker
Observer
I am looking for the following parts from a 75-78 econoline van, I love the look of the round headlights and they bolt right up to my Van series.
1 - Grille
Chrome - D5UZ 8200
Argent - D8UZ 8200
2 - Moulding - D5UZ 8419
3 - Panel, Lower - D5UZ 8188
4 - Support, Outer - E3UZ 8182
Also looking for the headlight buckets.
1 - Grille
Chrome - D5UZ 8200
Argent - D8UZ 8200
2 - Moulding - D5UZ 8419
3 - Panel, Lower - D5UZ 8188
4 - Support, Outer - E3UZ 8182
Also looking for the headlight buckets.
bugwhacker
Observer
I think I like this...
or.. maybe this..
or.. maybe this..
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