Building a Composite Camper on a U1700 w/ 3 Way Tilt Bed

[AKAdventureCpl]

I recently purchased a U1700 (3250 mm wheelbase) with a 3-way tilt bed that already is on a three point subframe. I have been seriously kicking around the idea of an composite expedition camper with a cabover for the sleeping area to try and get some additional living space. I am well aware that one has to provide enough area between the cab and the cabin cabover in order to account for articulation. What are the thoughts of how much space that would entail.

I did see a cabover camper on the Atkinson Vos homepage and the same vehicle in a YouTube video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdcEhOg-yfE ) that uses a manual hydraulic lift system to tilt the cabin up (and back) to obtain the clearance needed to then tilt the cab for easier access to the engine if needed. This got me thinking why not just keep the 3-way tilt bed (minus the sides) that I already have and somehow attach the camper body. With that I would be able to tip the camper instead of a manual hydraulic lift system, and building a whole new subframe.

Has anyone seen this done or something similar? If so, how did they attach the camper body? Also, how did they manage to keep water from entering between the 3-way tilt bed subframe and camper body? Any other thoughts?

This idea seems far too simple to be true. Is that the case?

 

[ianc]

I think the whole camper body tips in that Atkinson Vos vehicle. There is no evidence that its just the cabin portion the tips.
One thing to keep in mind if you decide to go down this route - you vehicle will be comfortably over 4.2m - well into the territory which will give you access issues. Mine is 3.5m and I have problems.

 

[Sitec]

And to add to what Ian said, also be mindful of weight.. Keeping all that framework and tray underneath will make for an overweight vehicle.... Following with interest.

 

[AKAdventureCpl]

I think the whole camper body tips in that Atkinson Vos vehicle. There is no evidence that its just the cabin portion the tips.
One thing to keep in mind if you decide to go down this route - you vehicle will be comfortably over 4.2m - well into the territory which will give you access issues. Mine is 3.5m and I have problems.

Ian...thanks for the response. I was inartful in my use of the word "cabin," by which I meant camper; with the cab being the driver's compartment. I asked Atkinson about the height and they said 3.5 but that may be with a lower subframe than the 3-way tilt bed. I'll have to do some more measurements tonight.

 

[AKAdventureCpl]

And to add to what Ian said, also be mindful of weight.. Keeping all that framework and tray underneath will make for an overweight vehicle.... Following with interest.

Sitec...I wondered too about weight and thought of removing the steel plate and replacing it with something lighter and more airy so to speak. This is the perfect forum for getting collective wisdom and avoid a chase down a rabbit hole.

 

[Sitec]

The idea is good tho which makes it all the more hard! I have a Merc 1222 4x4 which has a steel tray and Hiab style crane behind the cab. A very usable setup, and lots of people keep suggesting I make my body lift on and off, retaining the tray and crane.. I'm of the opinion that if you've bought a truck to turn into an overland camper, then turn it into a camper.. (once you've done everything you need to do with it!! ) Even tho I can end up with a vehicle weighing in at 13 tonnes +/-, I'm still going to be aiming for nearer 8/9 tonnes max. I plan to build a 3 point mount system similar to the Mogs, but the front pivot points will be either side of the chassis rails about a meter behind the cab, and the rear pivot point will be in-between the chassis rails just behind the rear diff, allowing the rear of the chassis to do what it pleases as it will only be carrying the spare wheels (mounted on a lightweight mast which includes the rear bumper/light bar). Also, by building the body to 'suit' the truck, IMO you'll have a far better looking vehicle... Ian's body is built to suit his Mog, and sits well on the chassis. I have a longer wheelbase, so hope to build a body that's 5.5 m long but only 2.2m high. See sketch of roughly what I'm thinking with mine.. by drawing a scale pic of your vehicle, you can then photocopy the chassis cab sketch and play around with different body ideas.. We're needing to see some pics of your Mog too!!!

 

[part time nomad]

AKAdventurecpl. Your Idea seems good, why remove what you already have, that is tried and tested, although of course "weight" is always an issue to be watched. regarding the platform, why not strip out the heavy steel base and just leave a frame work.

you can then have a box body made from GRP & insulation, with aluminium struts fitted with in the floor sandwich (as in my build) and bolt it to your sub frame, that way you save a little bit of height. also in a bid to keep the overall height down, I used a drop down bed from the roof to save the height needed above the cab.

When you say 3 way tilt bed is it the 3 point torsion free mounting, or is it a 3 way tipping body? if the later of the 2 the rams will bake it heavy, but you could use it to level up the box when camping.

 

[AKAdventureCpl]

Pics and Indecision

Here are three pics, two showing the 3-way tilt bed and the other just a side shot. I'm still tossing and turning on how best to approach the subframe. I like the idea of building off the 3-way tilt, but have reservations on weight and height that in the grand scheme may or may not be valid. The suggestion of taking off the steel floor certainly has merit in reducing weight. I also have an opportunity to obtain some plans for a proven three-point subframe system for a expedition camper and this Unimog model (U1700).

 

[scottishpinz]

Nice Mog. Basically if I were you I would weigh the empty truck, find out what payload you have left and see if that works. If not you will need to start stripping weight. Sides of tipper will weigh a few 10s of kg, the metal floor probably nearer 100 kg, the rams + hydraulics a couple more 100 kg and so on.... The other thing is if there is value in the 3 way tipper to be sold on. That could raise funds for the build.

 

[part time nomad]

Some good points raised by Scotishpinz, Also what is the GVW of the Mog ? you probably have quite a margin for the build.
My Vario came with a hydraulic winch that I removed because it was damaged, but I kept the pto and made a leveling system.

I can see that height is an issue, but how much lower can you make it by not using the body that you have? making and fitting a torsion free mounting will not be cheap and you could well be back to the same height or weight!

 

[Sitec]

Hi again.

PM this Ian re weights.. :-

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/37349-Unimog-Camper-under-construction

I know he has had to 'uprate' his Mog as he's over the standard weight limit. It depends how detailed/heavy you are planni g to go. If you want a well set out box with home comforts, the tray will have to go...

 

[ianc]

The frame that the hydraulic ram is mounted on is mounted the chassis by what looks like a 4 point torsion free mounting

 

[fietsryer]

The frame that the hydraulic ram is mounted on is mounted the chassis by what looks like a 4 point torsion free mounting

Agreed

If i were you i'd remove the tipper bed but retain the torsion free subframe and use that as a base for the camper body. If you mount the camper on the 4 ball joints the tipper bed attaches to it should be fairly simple to make a removable camper body so you can still use the mog for other duties when not camping

 

[Joe917]

The box should definitely go, it is far too heavy.
If I recall correctly, the ball joints on the tipper lock in pairs, not all 4 at once. this allows the tipper frame additional flex. Better check that.

 

[Coachgeo]

The tipper box and all its associated components is a hot commodity. Remove it and sell it. Granted will take a while. In long run though this alone could finance much of the rest of your build.