Building a sleeping/drawer platform for my suburban, have a few question *** BUILT **

I'm getting ready to build a drawer/sleeping platform in the back of my 89 Suburban. Is there any particular reasons to go with either one big drawer or two smaller ones? Also, any reason to go with 60" slides for long drawers vs. maybe 36" slides with shorter drawers and some storage behind the drawers with flip up lids to access? What weight ratings did you guys go with your slides? If I go with the 60's, they are 500 lbs. The 36" slides are available in a lot less weight rating, meaning a lot cheaper. Thanks.
 
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Rockhounder

Explorer
Remember the 89 interior left to right available area in the rear is 66.5 inches, and about a foot wider than newer suburbans. Of course you can go right on top of the wheelwells in the older body styles, or lose about 4 inches on a side to go down to the main bed, you would have to go higher to span the newer gen wheelwell molding cover assemblies. That is a lot of width to span without having to seriously reinforce the sleeping platform to hold people weight. i would suggest running a fore/aft centerline support, then put a drawer on each side. You can seriously fit a queen size bed with inches to spare on each side.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
I have my 70 Burb setup with 4 sections.
2 behind the back seats with lift up lids to allow access when inside the vehicle and 2 in the back with the tailgate down.
This means I only have to deal with a small section when getting things instead of a big wide long drawer.
 
I have my 70 Burb setup with 4 sections.
2 behind the back seats with lift up lids to allow access when inside the vehicle and 2 in the back with the tailgate down.
This means I only have to deal with a small section when getting things instead of a big wide long drawer.

Do you happen to have any pictures?
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
I have been playing with various options in my mind (and on paper) for mine. I have a Yukon so not as long as a Burb but same basic premise- I would use two or even three depending on what you want to have (in mine I am planning one drawer to be a slide out kitchen (stove etc.)). Also with three drawers no one drawer carries as much weight. But my point is with two drawers you can have one for food, plates, utensils, duffels etc. and keep them away from tools, spare parts, recovery gear etc. which can be in the other drawer. I have also planned cubbies with lids on either side for the space from the raised wheelwells back to the tailgate/end.

I am torn between having it all done in one system or a two part system where I can have drawers that open out via the passenger doorways for when I fold down the 2nd row of seats. But if I have the second row up for passengers then I can still have the basic system in the cargo area.
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
To the OP's questions, multiple drawers will allow vertical support in the middle of your platform, something that's useful if other stuff will be stored on top of it, or if you are using it as a sleep platform.
Multiple drawers also let you get to things when you have limited room to pull out the drawers, letting you stand to the side instead of beyond the front of the drawer. Multiple drawers will also cut the weight of the drawer contents by half or two-thirds, making operation of the drawers much easier and the needed weight capacity of any sliders much less, making those less expensive.
Multiple drawers is also a way to not 'show all your cards' to prying eyes. Put your most-used stuff in the front of one drawer. 1ts aid, recovery, roadside emergency stuff. Camping and prep stuff, calories and fluids, arms, whatever in the back or other drawer.



Finalizing designs now for my '02. it's 49" wide between the side fairings / wheel wells, just like a pickup bed. About 58" from the rear hatch to the back of the 2nd row seats. 30" from hatch to the back of the 3rd row.

I'm building a narrow module to the driver side of the cargo area fitting behind the 3rd row to hold additional batteries and power conversion and running many power ports / voltage flavors to both the rear and front faces. The remaining 40" of width will be split into two drawer modules, each in their own housings, extending all the way to the 2nd seat. Right drawer set up for desert rifle range trips, to hold / secure rifles and related gear. Left drawer will hold all the roadside emergency, recovery, tool, 1st aid stuff, most in task-grouped bags.
All components will be about 9" tall and form a flat carpeted floor altogether. I need the headroom for big dogs and rare use as a solo sleep platform.
The drawers will be fastened but readily removable, whenever I need to put the 3rd row seat back in. I can just throw a few useful bags of stuff in back, for whatever trip has me hauling 5-6 people. And that way the power module remains in place for camping, field astronomy, ham radio field day uses. I'm also working up a plan for a sturdy cargo net, which will have mounting points behind both the 3rd row and 2nd row seating, so the loose bags of gear (or other stuff) won't be a problem.

The 'tool' drawer will also have a 'tabletop' flat cover which is hinged in half to also be folded upward like an A-frame easel, for use as a mapboard / whatever. When stored it will either rest on the sides of the drawer, or slide into a set of grooves attached to the underside of the upper deck, like a built-in cutting board sort of thing. On second thought it will rest on the back two-thirds of the tool drawer, since it will be sized to fit into notches on the top edges of the drawer sides.

I'm not using any slides, using melamine coated board for the bearing surfaces, possibly some form of dry lubricant if needed, but likely won't be, and I'm designing the back end of the drawers to fit close to the ceiling such that they support the drawers when they are extended. Don't want the loss of space or expense of heavy duty metal slides.
I got some nice inexpensive large locking paddle latches from Northern Tool a few weeks ago, have since modified them for mounting with bolts, and given them a nice paint job. I posted a topic about those - http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/135743-Best-value-place-to-get-paddle-latches

I'll get a design / build thread started soon with a bunch of illustrations, in the next week or two. I hope to have it all built by Memorial weekend at the latest.
 
To the OP's questions, multiple drawers will allow vertical support in the middle of your platform, something that's useful if other stuff will be stored on top of it, or if you are using it as a sleep platform.
Multiple drawers also let you get to things when you have limited room to pull out the drawers, letting you stand to the side instead of beyond the front of the drawer. Multiple drawers will also cut the weight of the drawer contents by half or two-thirds, making operation of the drawers much easier and the needed weight capacity of any sliders much less, making those less expensive.
Multiple drawers is also a way to not 'show all your cards' to prying eyes. Put your most-used stuff in the front of one drawer. 1ts aid, recovery, roadside emergency stuff. Camping and prep stuff, calories and fluids, arms, whatever in the back or other drawer.



Finalizing designs now for my '02. it's 49" wide between the side fairings / wheel wells, just like a pickup bed. About 58" from the rear hatch to the back of the 2nd row seats. 30" from hatch to the back of the 3rd row.

I'm building a narrow module to the driver side of the cargo area fitting behind the 3rd row to hold additional batteries and power conversion and running many power ports / voltage flavors to both the rear and front faces. The remaining 40" of width will be split into two drawer modules, each in their own housings, extending all the way to the 2nd seat. Right drawer set up for desert rifle range trips, to hold / secure rifles and related gear. Left drawer will hold all the roadside emergency, recovery, tool, 1st aid stuff, most in task-grouped bags.
All components will be about 9" tall and form a flat carpeted floor altogether. I need the headroom for big dogs and rare use as a solo sleep platform.
The drawers will be fastened but readily removable, whenever I need to put the 3rd row seat back in. I can just throw a few useful bags of stuff in back, for whatever trip has me hauling 5-6 people. And that way the power module remains in place for camping, field astronomy, ham radio field day uses. I'm also working up a plan for a sturdy cargo net, which will have mounting points behind both the 3rd row and 2nd row seating, so the loose bags of gear (or other stuff) won't be a problem.

The 'tool' drawer will also have a 'tabletop' flat cover which is hinged in half to also be folded upward like an A-frame easel, for use as a mapboard / whatever. When stored it will either rest on the sides of the drawer, or slide into a set of grooves attached to the underside of the upper deck, like a built-in cutting board sort of thing. On second thought it will rest on the back two-thirds of the tool drawer, since it will be sized to fit into notches on the top edges of the drawer sides.

I'm not using any slides, using melamine coated board for the bearing surfaces, possibly some form of dry lubricant if needed, but likely won't be, and I'm designing the back end of the drawers to fit close to the ceiling such that they support the drawers when they are extended. Don't want the loss of space or expense of heavy duty metal slides.
I got some nice inexpensive large locking paddle latches from Northern Tool a few weeks ago, have since modified them for mounting with bolts, and given them a nice paint job. I posted a topic about those - http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/135743-Best-value-place-to-get-paddle-latches

I'll get a design / build thread started soon with a bunch of illustrations, in the next week or two. I hope to have it all built by Memorial weekend at the latest.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to go with a couple drawers. I also decided against using slides. My friend who is a finish carpenter is coming down today to help me build it over the weekend. I'll try and post some pictures.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Please do, I'd like to see if there's any ideas I can steal :) And I'm interested to see how a finish carpenter chooses to do his joinery in such an application. At best I considered some rabbeting and glue and screw, trying to make strong joints in minimal space. I keep looking longingly at Kreg jigs but can't get past their required proprietary screws (I'm too cheap).
 
Finally got it done tonight. We started last night. We used 3/4" plywood for the sleeping platform, 1/2" plywood for the drawers, 2x8's ripped down for the frame. Now I just need to decide if I am going to carpet it, paint it, or do something else. Any ideas?

We started off with by making a raised platform to the drawers would clear the tailgate.
10995711_1553635691570658_343009122717815832_n.jpg


Then we added the frame for the drawers and storage areas.
11071687_1553635668237327_8342134029932317700_n.jpg


Next we added some bracing to it
10952846_1553635644903996_5417700359022413575_n.jpg


We used casters instead of drawer slides. It works pretty well for being cheap as all hell.
11069906_1553635524904008_1453188032946963494_n.jpg


1897834_1553635488237345_3785888496332759258_n.jpg


Here it is completely build.
11081408_1553635461570681_6077852804830294591_n.jpg


10306553_1553635438237350_191541320330145178_n.jpg


A third battery is going to be mounted in the wheel well, and then the false floor will mount the inverter and blue sea fuse block.
10247290_1553635421570685_4458979498598774137_n.jpg


20690_1553635401570687_381653498536781017_n.jpg


11077918_1553635378237356_4359162709547990611_n.jpg


Needed to add a few inches to my feet didn't hang off the end. So we came up with this. A small panel that flips out and extends the sleeping area.
11062414_1553635354904025_3843091764651215764_n.jpg


11082554_1553635294904031_7032574260059395035_n.jpg


1520624_1553635241570703_8065207161067146670_n.jpg


Complete with all the storage cubbies open.
10446454_1553635261570701_8236234056530780352_n.jpg


Some under platform storage also.
10268632_1553635134904047_6063514798842631752_n.jpg
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
heh. I really like the idea of being able to use that kreg jig to essentially toenail two flat pieces together at a right angle. Saves losing storage space to a 2x2 or 2x4. Or using a 2x8 as a vertical member. I really don't want to give up the space. While technically neat, I just don't like the hard case in a pullout drawer inside of a bin. That's like wrapping something up 3x. And when sliders are used too, it's good bit of storage cubic lost to the origami of it all. Likewise things like fetishized Bugout Bags, where there are bags within bags within bags within bags. There's a point were it goes beyond 'organized' and well into 'cumbersome'. Too much overhead.

KREG_K4-2-lg.jpg


Guess I'm just going to go with either butt joints or a slight rabbet and some plain old countersunk woodscrews.

--

Hidesert looks real good. Like the pop out top panels for access. As to paint, there's a real nice drawer platform in the mega topic a few pages from the end, the black setup in the blue truck with shell. It looks like satin finish paint and it looks real nice. Were it me I'd be tempted to take a door interior panel to Home Depot and get some matching burgandy paint.
I've got dogs, though, so mine is getting topped with indoor/outdoor carpet, attached with spray glue. And my vehicle is black/black, so the paint choice is easy. I'v also got to use either recessed pull rings, so some sort of filler cap for the hole in such hatches, don't want my big dogs to break a toe i the holes.
on second look, those pull rings aren't much better as a toe-snagging hazard. Might have to go with those plastic hole caps like those used to fill cabling holes in office desks. Pluck it out when I need to pull a hatch.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I can't find the topic or page, but this is the vehicle I was referring to -

Truck%20Platform%20and%20Storage%204.jpg



There's a few other nice ones that seem to have a bit of texture paint / trunk paint as an undercoat. There are also a few that are painted with a roller and get a nice texture finish that way.
 

southpier

Expedition Leader
.... toenail two flat pieces together at a right angle. Saves losing storage space to a 2x2 or 2x4. Or using a 2x8 as a vertical member. I really don't want to give up the space. ...

you shouldn't. you're building a cabinet, not a lumber wagon. the drawer front in the picture (obviously designed to sell the tool) will pull off the screws and in such a way there'll be no way to reattach but to add more screws. you need to think sheer & tension, not compression.

i've had good luck with Sherwin-Williams All Surface Enamel, both versions: acrylic is good/ alkyd is more better.
 
heh. I really like the idea of being able to use that kreg jig to essentially toenail two flat pieces together at a right angle. Saves losing storage space to a 2x2 or 2x4. Or using a 2x8 as a vertical member. I really don't want to give up the space. While technically neat, I just don't like the hard case in a pullout drawer inside of a bin. That's like wrapping something up 3x. And when sliders are used too, it's good bit of storage cubic lost to the origami of it all. Likewise things like fetishized Bugout Bags, where there are bags within bags within bags within bags. There's a point were it goes beyond 'organized' and well into 'cumbersome'. Too much overhead.

KREG_K4-2-lg.jpg


Guess I'm just going to go with either butt joints or a slight rabbet and some plain old countersunk woodscrews.

--

Hidesert looks real good. Like the pop out top panels for access. As to paint, there's a real nice drawer platform in the mega topic a few pages from the end, the black setup in the blue truck with shell. It looks like satin finish paint and it looks real nice. Were it me I'd be tempted to take a door interior panel to Home Depot and get some matching burgandy paint.
I've got dogs, though, so mine is getting topped with indoor/outdoor carpet, attached with spray glue. And my vehicle is black/black, so the paint choice is easy. I'v also got to use either recessed pull rings, so some sort of filler cap for the hole in such hatches, don't want my big dogs to break a toe i the holes.
on second look, those pull rings aren't much better as a toe-snagging hazard. Might have to go with those plastic hole caps like those used to fill cabling holes in office desks. Pluck it out when I need to pull a hatch.

I have dogs also, and hadn't thought about the holes being a problem. I'll discuss it with the wife. I picked up a bunch of speaker box carpet from the local car audio place and am going to install it with some locktite spray on adhesive. We didn't leave enough room to wrap the carpet around the hatch covers, so I am going to paint the area around them black before I install the black speaker carpet. Then I will cut around them and hope to hell the carpet doesn't start fraying. Kinda hokie, but it will have to do. My friend who helped me build it live almost 400 miles away and have all the good wood working tools.
 

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