Building or adapting a solar controller box?

[Martinjmpr]

Has anyone here built their own box for a solar controller or adapted something else that would work? I need something better than the "redneck" setup I have now where I just plop the controller on top of a plastic tote and cover it with another plastic box for waterproofing.
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Here's what I need to make or adapt: Something that will hold my solar controller and allow access (door of some kind) but also waterproof or at least water resistant enough to be outside. Then I have to have some kind of quick-connects that are mounted to the box so I can plug and unplug the components (battery leads and solar panels.)
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I hate reinventing the wheel and I know I'm not the only one who's ever faced this problem, so if anyone has a solution they've used I'd love to see photos and/or parts you've used.
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Thanks in advance!

 

[AndrewP]

You could mount your controller inside the cab of your truck. Leave it connected to your battery. When you want to charge with solar, bring the wire from the panel to the controller and plug it in-Anderson plugs would work perfectly like this. Then your controller is always out of the elements, and easy to use. I have run mine like this before, even backfeeding through my interior fuse panel. Theoretically it would be better closer to the battery, but it's only an extra 2 feet of 8 gauge wire, so no big deal.

Now if the real goal is to move it from vehicle to vehicle or battery to battery, than an ammo box would work. But remember if it's raining, you likely won't be generating much solar anyway.

My current charge controller is mounted in a vented project box (not at all water proof) and when in use, I place it near the battery, and hook up anderson connectors to battery and then panel. Works fine. With the hood closed, it isn't getting wet in any serious way.

 

[Martinjmpr]

You could mount your controller inside the cab of your truck. Leave it connected to your battery. When you want to charge with solar, bring the wire from the panel to the controller and plug it in-Anderson plugs would work perfectly like this. Then your controller is always out of the elements, and easy to use. I have run mine like this before, even backfeeding through my interior fuse panel. Theoretically it would be better closer to the battery, but it's only an extra 2 feet of 8 gauge wire, so no big deal.

Now if the real goal is to move it from vehicle to vehicle or battery to battery, than an ammo box would work. But remember if it's raining, you likely won't be generating much solar anyway.

My current charge controller is mounted in a vented project box (not at all water proof) and when in use, I place it near the battery, and hook up anderson connectors to battery and then panel. Works fine. With the hood closed, it isn't getting wet in any serious way.

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Unfortunately a permanent mount won't work for me, at least not with my current setup, because I need to be able to use the solar on both the truck and the trailer, interchangeably. I suppose I could get a second controller, mount one in the truck and one in the trailer but then the issue is where in the truck do I mount the controller? An external box seems like it would be an easier solution for me because then it would be portable and I could use it when and where I needed it.
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Where can I get Anderson connectors? Electronics store?

 

[Bear in NM]

Martin,

I am using a Pelican case exactly as you describe.It's a bigger one, 18x24x9 that I had previously used for other things. I do not have any connectors protruding to the outside of the case, as in use I have my solar cable running out by the handle, and the lid is almost all the way shut. This keeps it reasonably moisture free. If it is pouring rain, I can throw a small tarp over it, with the lid a-jar for the cable. In transport, with the lid latched, it is obviously water and dust tight, and could be carried anywhere.

I have gotten my Anderson connectors through amazon. I am using the 15amp version for everything, but almost wished I had gone one size larger. You can get a #10 wire into the 15amp version, but just, and it takes some work. And when/if you settle on a connector, buy a bulk package. I realized that by placing Anderson's on the end of every wire run and device, you can go through a bag pretty quick. But by placing an Anderson on the end of every device, you can mix and match, if you will. As an example, I run connectors on both ends of a combo amp/volt meter. I can move this around to the solar panel lead, solar panel end at the controller to check what is coming out, and what is getting to the battery. I made a couple of short fuse wires, with Anderson's on each end. This way I can add a fuse if I feel it necessary to any devise or wire run, or anything I may wish to add. If you liked Lego's as a kid, you find them just as addicting, as an adult.

Craig

 

[phxtoad]

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/163170-Phxtoad-s-solar-generator-du-jour

So although I have my box set up for internal batteries, I have discovered that without them installed I can plug in leads from an external battery (via an SAE connection) and it charges through.

My 'system' could be modified to delete the internal batteries and therefore get much smaller and lighter.

Todd

 

[4x4junkie]

I just place the controller itself somewhere under the hood, attach the clips to the battery, plug the panel into it, then lower the hood. It can't get wet there, and is right near the battery. I've thought of putting it inside a little box of some sort, but it's never been a priority (the controller nestles nicely in the space between the air filter box and the blower motor housing).

 

[Martinjmpr]

Martin,
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I am using a Pelican case exactly as you describe.It's a bigger one, 18x24x9 that I had previously used for other things. I do not have any connectors protruding to the outside of the case, as in use I have my solar cable running out by the handle, and the lid is almost all the way shut. This keeps it reasonably moisture free. If it is pouring rain, I can throw a small tarp over it, with the lid a-jar for the cable. In transport, with the lid latched, it is obviously water and dust tight, and could be carried anywhere.
.
I have gotten my Anderson connectors through amazon. I am using the 15amp version for everything, but almost wished I had gone one size larger. You can get a #10 wire into the 15amp version, but just, and it takes some work. And when/if you settle on a connector, buy a bulk package. I realized that by placing Anderson's on the end of every wire run and device, you can go through a bag pretty quick. But by placing an Anderson on the end of every device, you can mix and match, if you will. As an example, I run connectors on both ends of a combo amp/volt meter. I can move this around to the solar panel lead, solar panel end at the controller to check what is coming out, and what is getting to the battery. I made a couple of short fuse wires, with Anderson's on each end. This way I can add a fuse if I feel it necessary to any devise or wire run, or anything I may wish to add. If you liked Lego's as a kid, you find them just as addicting, as an adult.
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Craig

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By any chance do you have pictures of your setup? I'd like to see it. I had the same idea, a pelican-box type thing with connectors permanently attached to the box (maybe epoxied on?)
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Also would it make sense to add one of these:
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bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt
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I would think it would go in between the controller and the battery, yes? Would that give me an accurate reading of how much current the solar panel is sending to the battery?

 

[DaveInDenver]

That meter consumes 200mW while operating, so it's actually not terrible if it was inadvertently left on for a day or two. Assuming a 65A-hr pack or battery it would take about 3,900 hours to run down, so you do want to put a switch in the power circuit during storage.

 

[dwh]

I think its a good idea. A couple points about these meters.
1, they constantly draw power to operate. Its not much, I would not be too upset about using expensive solar capture to operate a display , but if building batteries into a portable "power box", one should devise a method to shut off the meter when the thing is put away.

Verk...it's a *portable* setup. The meter shuts off automatically when he unplugs the solar and the battery to pack up camp.

 

[dwh]

One potential problem I see here; if the charge controller has internal temp sensor and does temp compensation.

If the charge controller is much warmer in its snug little box than the battery is, then the temp compensation is going to adjust the charging voltage down.

Won't hurt anything, but could take longer to charge the battery. Not the way to maximize the daily watts harvested.

 

[Martinjmpr]

That meter consumes 200mW while operating, so it's actually not terrible if it was inadvertently left on for a day or two. Assuming a 65A-hr pack or battery it would take about 3,900 hours to run down, so you do want to put a switch in the power circuit during storage.

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Verk...it's a *portable* setup. The meter shuts off automatically when he unplugs the solar and the battery to pack up camp.

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Correct. When not in use the box with the controller will be unplugged from everything including the battery so power draw is not an issue.

 

[Bear in NM]

Not good at this photo sharing. Lets see if this works.





Craig

OK, the top is the box open, showing storage below, and wiring attached to hinged deck. You can also see one of 4 goal zero panels. There is a ton of stuff down there.
The bottom photo is the deck, where you can see batteries, charge controllers, storage, fuses, switches meters, inverters etc. Anderson connectors, usb bank direct battery terminals etc.