Buying a 1998 Discovery 1 Tomorrow!!!!!!!

[dcwhybrew]

Okay fair enough. I will see about that then. Woke up today to a new surprise, Check Engine light! yay. Only symptom is yesterday when i was on my way home, stopped to grab some food, when I started it back up again, there was a small roaring sound like the fans on full or a big diesel revving its engine next to you. Was only there for 30-40 seconds and as I pulled out onto the road to get it home it went away when it hit 2k rpms. Drove it to do more errands later on and never heard a peep. Now this! Called the mechanic, he got me to check the fan, seemed to spin freely (could have been a slipping belt of some sort?). Oh well. Aside from a 120km drive to Toronto tomorrow I'm committed to, its gonna sit until Tuesday when I'm taking it in to get it scanned. Never a dull moment!

I dont think the CE light and the fan are related. The fan you're hearing is your viscous fan. It runs when the engine gets to a certain temperature. It will keep running until it cools off. If I remember correctly, it will keep running after the ignition is turned off. Someone chime in if I'm wrong here.

Backing up a few posts, regarding your oil change...1) good for you using Rotella and the Napa Gold filter, 2) if it was that dirty, you might want to change the oil and filter every 1000 miles (or equivalent kms) over 3k or 4k miles. That way if there is any lose sludge, you can work it out faster. Also, before doing that, consider doing an oil change except replace one quart of oil with one quart of synthetic transmission fluid. WARNING if you do this: DO NOT DRIVE YOUR TRUCK! Simply let it idle for 20 minutes, letting the engine get up to temperature, and do another oil change, then you can start the 1k mile interval oil changes. The transmission fluid has a heavy detergent property and will help clean the crud inside the engine. Just a thought. I did it on my 96 when my first oil change was similar to yours. It's not a majic cure all, but it helps.

 

[JeremyT101]

Thanks a lot DC. Yeah after a post on this forum and others it seems to appear the two are unrelated. From what I have read it could have just gotten really hot under the hood with no airflow, locks up the fan to pull lots of air fast, and in doing its job makes a bit of a roar. No worries. The CE light then does appear to be unrelated. Not sure what it is yet, but there was a CE light on when I bought the truck and I know all the issues relating to it haven't been worked out, so I'm not surprised to see it come back on. Had to drive it a bit today to run some errands and help my GF move, and the truck is calmly going along. I'm getting it scanned on Tuesday and I will come back with the codes. Could be another misfire as I have done the wires but not the plugs, god only knows how old they are.

About the engine oil, I have checked it after driving about 1000km and its just slightly browner. Ill give it another 1K and change it again I think. Rotella was on sale for 18$/4 quarts at CT near me, which ain't a bad deal. I'm also going to grab a can of PB plaster to hit all the bolts around the fuel filter. That's my next maintenance task after the plugs. Then dif/t-case fluids. Long list, but I'm working through it.

 

[rijosho]

I'll bet the light is related to a bad o2 (oxygen) sensor as that's what throws the code more than anything (with Defenders at least).

 

[JeremyT101]

Could be. Hoping not though, 120$ a pop from Atlantic British. And if one is bad, they are all probably on their way out!

 

[Wild Kingdom]

Disco Fever

This has been an interesting thread to read to say the least :ylsmoke:

I have owned 4 Discos. Loved em all, sans the stranding on the side of the road lol!
In all seriousness, your Disco will become a fever, where you will have this insatiable urge to always mess with it to make sure "she's" happy.

Good luck to you and keep posting your updates!

Dan

P.S. I just bought my 4th D1, 1996, 153k miles, absolute basket case, and I love it :Wow1:
Time to give her a second lease on life!

 

[JeremyT101]

Thanks man! I got the truck in and scanned. I can't remember what the code was now, just one of them. was something relating to a sensor of the vacuum in the gas tank? Rover guy said no biggie, no need to worry about that one for now, engine is strong, keep changing the oil often, and she will keep going. Although, my fan clutch as predicted was not in the best state of repair. May need to get swapped out soon. I know there is a 50$ chevy E-350 fan clutch conversion thread on LRF's.com, but I'm gunna see how much the replacement is first. Thanks guys!

Edit. - Woah 335$. Even with the RN 'Proline' model its 135. I'm going to check out both options.

 

[LtFuzz]

I know there is a 50$ chevy E-350 fan clutch conversion thread on LRF's.com, but I'm gunna see how much the replacement is first. Thanks guys!

Edit. - Woah 335$. Even with the RN 'Proline' model its 135. I'm going to check out both options.

Check out a junkyard

 

[David Harris]

Although, my fan clutch as predicted was not in the best state of repair. May need to get swapped out soon. I know there is a 50$ chevy E-350 fan clutch conversion thread on LRF's.com, but I'm gunna see how much the replacement is first. Thanks guys!

Edit. - Woah 335$. Even with the RN 'Proline' model its 135. I'm going to check out both options.

On the fan clutch, I replaced mine with an Imperial one spec'd for a Chevy.

The following parts and procedures are required:

Imperial Fan Clutch Part number 215157
4 Bolts (Help! kit # 14040 10x1.5x15mm four pack)
10mm drill bit or reamer

Installation:
Remove your fan blade assembly from the old clutch. Use an impact wrench with a 6mm bit for very easy removal of stuck bolts without harming the fan.
Ream out the 4 mounting holes on fan blade assembly to fit the 10mm bolts from the Help! kit
Bolt your fan blade assembly onto the new clutch with your Help! bolts
Reinstall onto your water pump and you are good to go

Work as well if not better than the stock Rover unit, is way less expensive (60.00) and replacements are available everywhere.

David

 

[AndrewClarke]

Hey. First, I suggest buying your own OBD-II code reader. I have this one: http://www.lemurmonitors.com/BlueDriver.html They're a Canadian company, and they provide a bluetooth OBD-II dongle and associated iPhone app. It's maybe not the most comprehensive product (yet), but it's only $40 and it works for me.

It's been a while since I had a Discovery (or a viscous fan), but IIRC the viscous cooling fan roared up fairly often when I started my engine. I think I have a spare viscous clutch you're welcome to, although I'm not sure if it works or not. Or if it will work on the V8 as it came off my 200tdi.

I replaced my viscous fan with an elecric fan out of a Chevy Impala or some similar V6 Chevy car. I just went to a junk yard and measured fans until I found one that I thought would fit. I made up a metal bracket and wired in a relay and a thermal switch from X-eng in the UK ( http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Fan.asp ). I can show you my setup in person or via photos if you want to go that route.

Finally, if you have an iPhone you have a GPS. You just need the right app. Do you use MapMyRide when you're cycling? That would probably even do the trick when driving, and it's free.

 

[JeremyT101]

Hey Andrew! Thanks. I will look into that Bluetooth OBDII reader. I know it would be good to have one, and at 40$ I think that would be worth it. Not sure if the 200tdi fan clutch will work, but ill look it up. If not Ill probably go the Chevy unit discussed above. Yep, I have a GPS, so I can use that for calculating the gas mileage. How is your Defender doing? I have the truck all working and everything now but it seems like those quick few times for off roading are done now!

 

[wanderluster]

I have been following this thread since it started and wow, ups and downs. It was like reading a really good book, I couldn't put it down! I'm glad everything has come full circle for you but I have to say, it's going to be boring now!

 

[Snagger]

I'd always recommend keeping the visous fan over fitting an elecrtic one - they're far more powerful and reliable, and if the viscous hub fails "free", can be locked up with a bolt or some cable ties to get you home. A failure in "locked" mode is nothing more than an inconveneience. Electric fans are less reliable and far less powerful and can sometimes fail to cope with the air demand to keep the coolant temperature stable. That's not helped by their reactive nature, cutting in only when the temperature rises significantly above normal, while a viscous unit is proactive and keeps the temperature stable. The figures about how much performance or economy loss the viscous fans cause are utter crap - they're marketing hype from electric fan manufacturers using locked up fans at high rpm on a bench test, not looking at ram airflow through the rad from vehicle motion or the fact that a staionary car's engine will be at idle.

I'm not cetain, but I'm confident the viscous hub will be the same as on a Tdi or V8 - LR don't like changing parts where it's not needed. So, if you can find a good one in a scrapper, it should save you a lot of money and effort in mods.