Depending on what you want to spend, the Hoseline package would be one solution, but it can really run into $$$. I was lucky enough to track down a used Hoseline 120 volt package that's going to be installed by the ambulance dealer who has it on his shelf. It ain't gonna be cheap, but it will be cheaper than a new system. My other option was to install an RV rooftop AC, which would have meant that my height would now be too high for my garage door, which would have required a new garage door and door framing. This would have increased the final cost enough that a dealer-installed Hoseline system became cheaper.
I haven't seen any prices for their stuff, but imagined it would be very expensive. I thought about the rooftop AC unit also, but it would have to be installed to the right of center due to the recessed area in the ceiling for the full length overhead grab rail. And like you, I'm trying to avoid installing anything on the roof to keep the clearance height down.
Other than a RV rooftop AC, another option would be to look at equipment built by ProAir - they make similar equipment. Still another option would be to make your own using an off the shelf HC-134 120 VAC compressor and a used condenser.
I have thought about this also and still haven't ruled it out yet. I'll check out ProAir also.
I've also heard about installing a split-system residential air conditioner in a camper, and it would even be possible to gimmick-up a used vehicle air conditioning compressor to a rope started Honda engine.
Yep, possibly a system from a small single wide house trailer.
At the expense of sounding like a 'good ole boy redneck', I'll throw this out there.
Since mine is a trailer, and there will no one in it when traveling, it looks to me like a 120VAC 8,000 BTU window unit will provide more than enough cooling, and I have seen some units with the heating feature also. Other than removing the grills and peeking inside, I haven't taken the right front cabinet apart that houses the HVAC system, but it looks like there is room at the top to slide one in once the existing unit is removed. And since there is no cab in the way, it could be vented out the front via some weather proof louvers, or vented downward and under the vehicle. There is already a drain hose for the factory system, so there must be a drip pan of some sort also.
The newer window units come with a remote control, are much lighter and many times more efficient than the older ones. The question is, will it survive the constant vibration of both on and off road travel? If it does go bad though, you just yank it out of there and pop in a new one.
but its starting to get old and cranky.... Hour meter stopped working at ~2800hrs, and who knows how long ago that was.
