Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE

[patoz]

It sounds like you got a very nice vehicle to start your build with. Like any remodeling job, there's nothing worse than getting half way into it, and then finding out the foundation, frame, or infrastructure has problems.

Did you get that 4.22 gal. Quick Nautical Equipment water heater you ordered yet? If so, have you tested it in any way?

BTW, are you setting yours up for 30A or 50A AC service?

 

[rlrenz]

The only problems I've had are common to emergency vehicles - I mentioned the brake line corrosion to my friends in the emergency vehicle business, and they all agreed that warm, humid fire houses are very hard on steel components, and that brake lines are definitely a consumable item. Other than that, no problems. All the fluids were changed before I drove it home, and we cruised at 70 the whole way.

The heater came in, but it hasn't been installed. It will be installed as part of the water system, and I'm still figuring out the water works details. It came with two stainless mounting straps, and since the compartment it will go into has Unistrut on the ends to support the shelf, I'll use the same 'strut to mount the heater. The cabinet is 42x42", and located directly under the future sink location, and will also hold the generator. Water tanks will go into the adjoining cabinet.

The ambulance will be set up for a 30 amp service. That will give me power for both the AC and general 120 VAC service. It will require careful load management at times, but since the lighting and refrigerator are all 12 volt, the only problem times will be when I want to run the AC and the "kitchen" at mealtimes (coffee pot AND microwave). I can also do what MNtal plans - a fold out grill in an outside cabinet.

If all else fails, I can always start 'er up at mealtimes so the AC will be engine-driven and not on the generator.

 

[java]

/snip

If all else fails, I can always start 'er up at mealtimes so the AC will be engine-driven and not on the generator.

Why not run the 120AC on the generator? Just curious as to why you would use the drive engine rather than the gen set.

My generator gets started to run the microwave but its starting to get old and cranky.... Hour meter stopped working at ~2800hrs, and who knows how long ago that was.

 

[rlrenz]

The ambulance now has only the truck-driven AC, but this spring, I'm installing a Hoseline add-on AC that is powered from 120 VAC. The 120 V air conditioner is planned for running while I'm parked with power from the Onan generator, and from a receptacle while I'm at a campground or wherever.

My plan is to use the generator when I'm stopped, both to run the AC and to run whatever else I want to run. The AC pulls about 15 amps and requires a 20 amp breaker, while the generator has a 30 amp output. If I get short on AC for whatever reason, I can always run the truck engine powered AC instead, which will give me 30 amps of 120 for whatever use.

Using the engine for AC is noisier, but workable when required.

 

[patoz]

The heater came in, but it hasn't been installed. It will be installed as part of the water system...

I figured the engineer in you would have figured out a way to set it up temporarily, and test it to see how long it takes to heat water to a certain degree.

 

[patoz]

The ambulance now has only the truck-driven AC, but this spring, I'm installing a Hoseline add-on AC that is powered from 120 VAC. The 120 V air conditioner is planned for running while I'm parked with power from the Onan generator, and from a receptacle while I'm at a campground or wherever...

When I cut my ambulance in half to make a trailer out of it, I lost the engine, A/C compressor, and condenser coils. I still have installed, the evaporator coil, fan, and the rear controls. The heating coil and fan are still intact also.

Would the Hoseline kit be something that could be adapted to what I have left, to make a complete A/C system that I could operate as you're planning on doing? I'm looking on their website, but their PDF catalog is a little slow.

 

[java]

OK I was reading AC as VAC not Air conditioning.... Whoops!

 

[rlrenz]

When I cut my ambulance in half to make a trailer out of it, I lost the engine, A/C compressor, and condenser coils. I still have installed, the evaporator coil, fan, and the rear controls. The heating coil and fan are still intact also.

Would the Hoseline kit be something that could be adapted to what I have left, to make a complete A/C system that I could operate as you're planning on doing? I'm looking on their website, but their PDF catalog is a little slow.

Depending on what you want to spend, the Hoseline package would be one solution, but it can really run into $$$. I was lucky enough to track down a used Hoseline 120 volt package that's going to be installed by the ambulance dealer who has it on his shelf. It ain't gonna be cheap, but it will be cheaper than a new system. My other option was to install an RV rooftop AC, which would have meant that my height would now be too high for my garage door, which would have required a new garage door and door framing. This would have increased the final cost enough that a dealer-installed Hoseline system became cheaper.

Other than a RV rooftop AC, another option would be to look at equipment built by ProAir - they make similar equipment. Still another option would be to make your own using an off the shelf HC-134 120 VAC compressor and a used condenser.

I've also heard about installing a split-system residential air conditioner in a camper, and it would even be possible to gimmick-up a used vehicle air conditioning compressor to a rope started Honda engine.

LOTS of possibilities to choose from.

 

[patoz]

Depending on what you want to spend, the Hoseline package would be one solution, but it can really run into $$$. I was lucky enough to track down a used Hoseline 120 volt package that's going to be installed by the ambulance dealer who has it on his shelf. It ain't gonna be cheap, but it will be cheaper than a new system. My other option was to install an RV rooftop AC, which would have meant that my height would now be too high for my garage door, which would have required a new garage door and door framing. This would have increased the final cost enough that a dealer-installed Hoseline system became cheaper.

I haven't seen any prices for their stuff, but imagined it would be very expensive. I thought about the rooftop AC unit also, but it would have to be installed to the right of center due to the recessed area in the ceiling for the full length overhead grab rail. And like you, I'm trying to avoid installing anything on the roof to keep the clearance height down.

Other than a RV rooftop AC, another option would be to look at equipment built by ProAir - they make similar equipment. Still another option would be to make your own using an off the shelf HC-134 120 VAC compressor and a used condenser.

I have thought about this also and still haven't ruled it out yet. I'll check out ProAir also.

I've also heard about installing a split-system residential air conditioner in a camper, and it would even be possible to gimmick-up a used vehicle air conditioning compressor to a rope started Honda engine.

Yep, possibly a system from a small single wide house trailer.


At the expense of sounding like a 'good ole boy redneck', I'll throw this out there.

Since mine is a trailer, and there will no one in it when traveling, it looks to me like a 120VAC 8,000 BTU window unit will provide more than enough cooling, and I have seen some units with the heating feature also. Other than removing the grills and peeking inside, I haven't taken the right front cabinet apart that houses the HVAC system, but it looks like there is room at the top to slide one in once the existing unit is removed. And since there is no cab in the way, it could be vented out the front via some weather proof louvers, or vented downward and under the vehicle. There is already a drain hose for the factory system, so there must be a drip pan of some sort also.

The newer window units come with a remote control, are much lighter and many times more efficient than the older ones. The question is, will it survive the constant vibration of both on and off road travel? If it does go bad though, you just yank it out of there and pop in a new one.

 

[rlrenz]

Regarding Hoseline: I've heard that the 120 volt add-on equipment will run over $5000 installed if it comes new in the box (which is why I'm in hog-heaven that I found a used unit!). Remember, I have to compare the installed cost of a used Hoseline unitt to the cost of a rooftop unit plus the cost of a new insulated garage door and re-framing the door opening, fiddling with the rafters, and then making the outside look nice again.

Window AC sounds workable. I've seen folks add AC to military shelters by throwing away the old MIL ACs (the ones that use Freon 22 and need a recharge every 6 months or so), and stuffing an off the shelf 6000-8000 BTU AC into the old housing. You could do something similar, and with a coat of ambulance-colored paint, it could well be an excellent solution. A window AC has the advantage that it totally complies with KISS. Remember, those things have to survive shipping, so they have already had some travel time. It might be worth looking inside to see if anything looks susceptible to vibration damage, and maybe adding a tie-wrap here and there, but I'll bet that unless you plan on driving the BAJA 500, a window unit will probably hold up pretty well.

And remember, whatever you decide to try, you won't be the first to experiment-

About 40 years ago (+/-), a friend of mine had to add air conditioning to an old railroad car that he was refurbishing. The car had originally had a mechanical air conditioner that needed to either move at 20+ MPH for cooling, or be plugged into 230 VAC, 3 phase to run the standby portion of the AC system. The AC also went through Freon 12 like the stuff was free. He finally sawed a Thermo-King truck refrigeration unit in half, and used the diesel compressor portion under the railroad car, and stuffed the evaporator into the car's ductwork. As I recall, it worked fairly well (mostly).

Give a modified window AC a try - they're available and reasonably priced - but I really can't recommend a Therm-King reefer unit and a Saws-All.

 

[rlrenz]

I was doing some supplier checking this afternoon, and I ran into a LED reading light offered by Weldon - Weldon supplies a lot of lighting equipment for ambulances, and they make decent stuff.

To Quote the Weldon Catalog:

8250 LED Swivel Reading Lamp

This lamp features two mid-power white LED's to provide 100 lumens of light output. The convex lens optic efficiently focuses the light onto the target reading surface. The lighthead swivels, allowing the user to position the light beam toward the desired location. The lamp features a prominent ON/OFF switch for easy activation in low-light conditions. The lamp has an integral connector to enable a reliable connection to the vehicle harness.



One supplier's web site lists them at $16.95 per each -- at that price, I'm planning on them over my squad bench (chase lounge), over the CPR seat (literary nook), possibly in the cab, and a few other places I'm considering. If I can avoid running my seven 30/50 watt ceiling lights and run some LEDs in their place, my auxiliary 12 volt deep-cycle battery life will be extremely increased.

I'll have one on order tomorrow so I can see what they look like, but I'm not too concerned coming from Weldon. Tune in tomorrow (plus a week or so for shipping) and I'll discuss what came in the box and what it feels like.

If I run into a price break, I'll pass the info along.

 

[rlrenz]

Sound the bells and ring the trumpets!!

One of the problems with a 1999 ambulance is trying to match existing interior finishes. My Medic-Master/Freightliner has a speckled grey "Formica" interior, and I've been looking for something to use for cabinet modifications/repairs that will not look like something I found at a surplus store - maybe grey laminate with a couple of flicked paint brush colors?

I finally gave up trying to do-it-myself, and stopped by a countertop dealer. I brought in a cabinet door for a sample, and he scratched his chin and said it looked more like a Wilsonart. We checked his wall display, and noting looked close - then he reached into a cabinet and pulled out an older set of chips. In about 10 seconds, we had matched it 100% - it was Wilsonart 4142-6- "Grey Glace".

OK - now I know what it was called 15 years ago -- is there still any on the planet? He called the Wilsonart warehouse, and they asked how many sheets I wanted. It turns out to still be a popular pattern for commercial work, such as bathroom dividers. I have a 4x8 sheet on the way, probably be here by the weekend.

That opens the door to some design changes that I had ignored since I needed to find the right laminate.

A very good morning, methinks.

Here's what it looks like:

 

[rlrenz]

I know there are at least a few folks out there with Freightliner / Medic-Master ambulances. I have been continually looking for specifications that will tell me details, such as who supplied the turn signals, markers, upholstery, and all the rest that you NEVER need until you need it. In my internet trolling, I found that the Lasko Group had apparently spec'd out a Freightliner / Medic-master ambulance for a customer (?) in 2004. The Lasko Group is better known for their ability to build armored vehicles for personal protection (Suburbans, etc), so how this came to be is well beyond me, but the specifications are available on the internet. For those of you with Freightliner / Medic-Master ambulances, enjoy (for the rest of you, eat your hearts out...)

http://www.lascointl.com/doors/ambulance_print.htm

 

[Ozrockrat]

Very interesting document. Seeing the extrusion and welding specifications is an eye opener.

Thanks

 

[patoz]

I wish someone could find a document like that for my 1993 Wheeled Coach Ambulance and post it, because I sure can't find anything.

I have also been leery of making any cabinet changes, because I don't want it to look like a patch job with mismatched covering materials. I don't have any Formica on anything, but my cabinets and walls are made out of a light gray vinyl covered plywood. The cabinets are .50" and .75" and the walls are a little under .25". Any idea where to buy something like this? Definitely not something you find at Lowe's or Home Depot...

BTW, I have Wilsonart laminate counter tops in my kitchen.

Ebony Star 4552

I like that Weldon LED reading light you posted. That gray color will fit right in with my color scheme. Did you find a source yet? I looked, but didn't find anything.