patoz
Expedition Leader
Yeah, that is obviously the best solution, but you know what they say, "The best laid plans of mice and men..."
Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE
- Thread starter rlrenz
- Start date
Yeah, that is obviously the best solution, but you know what they say, "The best laid plans of mice and men..."
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Many of the luxury prerunners they drive over here have pressurized cabins to keep the fine dust out. They run a helmet pumper (normally used to supply fresh air to a driver's helmet) that draws filtered air into the rollcage and forces it out into the cab.
rlrenz
Explorer
Yoikes! I have absolutely no intention of driving through that kind of a dust storm - no way, no how!
That being said, my Onan is designed to be hung under an RV as-is, with no added protection - it has a fiberglass shroud and built in air filtration. I've looked at some ambulance generator installations, and they generally just use louvers in the cabinet door (against rain), with cooling air being exhausted straight down. It has a Donaldson air cleaner and a built in muffler that I may supplement with an added resonator from Nelson Exhaust Systems.
If I was driving in a dusty environment, I could shut down the generator until I was clear of the dust storm.
The compartment is presently set up for circulating air from the module's HVAC system, but I'm going to blank this off to avoid fumes in the module. Since the compartment doors seal tightly, it would be easy to add a boat bilge blower and a basic dust separator (probably a cyclone with an after filter) in place of the open door louvers, except this could become large very fast (kind of like the package on the side of a semi tractor). I think I can avoid using the level of filtration needed in Iraq
I think my plan will be two fold: 1; Don't run the generator in a dust storm. 2; carry spare air filters
As far as standing water, I think I have about 16-18" or so from the pavement to the bottom of the compartment. I don't plan on driving through water over about 4-6"
That being said, my Onan is designed to be hung under an RV as-is, with no added protection - it has a fiberglass shroud and built in air filtration. I've looked at some ambulance generator installations, and they generally just use louvers in the cabinet door (against rain), with cooling air being exhausted straight down. It has a Donaldson air cleaner and a built in muffler that I may supplement with an added resonator from Nelson Exhaust Systems.
If I was driving in a dusty environment, I could shut down the generator until I was clear of the dust storm.
The compartment is presently set up for circulating air from the module's HVAC system, but I'm going to blank this off to avoid fumes in the module. Since the compartment doors seal tightly, it would be easy to add a boat bilge blower and a basic dust separator (probably a cyclone with an after filter) in place of the open door louvers, except this could become large very fast (kind of like the package on the side of a semi tractor). I think I can avoid using the level of filtration needed in Iraq
I think my plan will be two fold: 1; Don't run the generator in a dust storm. 2; carry spare air filters
As far as standing water, I think I have about 16-18" or so from the pavement to the bottom of the compartment. I don't plan on driving through water over about 4-6"
rlrenz
Explorer
A major milestone has been achieved! For many years, I have had machine tools - progressively better tools as my skills and wallet have both grown. I finally bought a Bridgeport milling machine in 2013, but it took until now to get it down the hill and installed. For the short term, I had been using it in my garage, but now it is sitting in the shop where it belongs.
Thanks to MNtal for his help!
Now that the move and installation are done, I can get back to ambulance stuff. Next on the list is the pull-out cook top since that's an indoor project.
Thanks to MNtal for his help!
Now that the move and installation are done, I can get back to ambulance stuff. Next on the list is the pull-out cook top since that's an indoor project.
rlrenz
Explorer
I grew up in my grandfather's machine shop, so machine tools are nothing new - except his were all belt driven from a motor in the attic of the shop. There was a lineshaft that ran the length of the shop, with a belt "transmission" above each tool. The tools had been delivered by a chain-drive Mack truck back in 190? when he set up the shop.
When he passed on, the shop went to my uncle, who was primarily a pattern maker. When my uncle passed on, we found an antique tool lover who cheerfully bought everything, hauled it home, and built a new shop designed around the tools and the lineshaft.
My own shop does what I need to do very well, but like every shop out there, it could really be a little bit bigger.....
When he passed on, the shop went to my uncle, who was primarily a pattern maker. When my uncle passed on, we found an antique tool lover who cheerfully bought everything, hauled it home, and built a new shop designed around the tools and the lineshaft.
My own shop does what I need to do very well, but like every shop out there, it could really be a little bit bigger.....
rlrenz
Explorer
Once step forward today --
As part of installing a Hoseline 12-120 volt air conditioning system, I need some parts that are unique to Hoseline. I already have the CM-3000 temperature control module and control panel, but I need a 12-120 volt control panel. I could build one, but I found a new one on good 'ol ebay today. I bought it, and once I combine it with a fiberglass enclosure I have in the garage, and some start/run capacitors, and a starting relay, I'll have one more module checked off the list.
I still need a R134 compressor, and evaporator, and a condenser with fan, but those are a lot easier to find since they don't have to be "Hoseline"
As part of installing a Hoseline 12-120 volt air conditioning system, I need some parts that are unique to Hoseline. I already have the CM-3000 temperature control module and control panel, but I need a 12-120 volt control panel. I could build one, but I found a new one on good 'ol ebay today. I bought it, and once I combine it with a fiberglass enclosure I have in the garage, and some start/run capacitors, and a starting relay, I'll have one more module checked off the list.
I still need a R134 compressor, and evaporator, and a condenser with fan, but those are a lot easier to find since they don't have to be "Hoseline"
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Congrats! You can do anything you want with the proper tools.
cjken
Explorer
Sweet milling machine!!
I'm mentoring a HS robotics team this year. One of those would be really nice in our shop!
rlrenz
Explorer
Thanks, gentlemen.
I grew up in my grandfather's machine shop, and I learned the important stuff - like how to splice leather belts, and how to shift belts with a 1x2. The machinery was 190? vintage, but my grandfather used it to build bookbinding machinery that is still being used today, and somewhere about 1910 or so, to turn a 3-cylinder car engine into a 4 cylinder engine (in those days, you couldn't just belly up to the counter at a junkyard and place an order - besides, I think he wanted the challenge). He had a custom crankshaft and cam shaft forged in Pittsburgh, iron castings made to his design, and then he machined the whole pile of parts. Now that's a DIY project!
FYI: here's a photo of his shop - I believe the NO ADMITTANCE sign is a leftover from WWII, when the shop did some defense subcontracting:
I'm not in his class by a bet, but I can do what I need to do. I've lusted after a Bridgeport for more than 40 years - it just took me a little while to get one.
I grew up in my grandfather's machine shop, and I learned the important stuff - like how to splice leather belts, and how to shift belts with a 1x2. The machinery was 190? vintage, but my grandfather used it to build bookbinding machinery that is still being used today, and somewhere about 1910 or so, to turn a 3-cylinder car engine into a 4 cylinder engine (in those days, you couldn't just belly up to the counter at a junkyard and place an order - besides, I think he wanted the challenge). He had a custom crankshaft and cam shaft forged in Pittsburgh, iron castings made to his design, and then he machined the whole pile of parts. Now that's a DIY project!
FYI: here's a photo of his shop - I believe the NO ADMITTANCE sign is a leftover from WWII, when the shop did some defense subcontracting:
I'm not in his class by a bet, but I can do what I need to do. I've lusted after a Bridgeport for more than 40 years - it just took me a little while to get one.
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rlrenz
Explorer
Patoz just sent me a catalog that's gonna cost me money... Check out SSI Custom Plastics for some useful stuff. Pat commented that he had installed one of their extinguisher cabinets on his pontoon boat, and the plastic still looked great after 10 years in the Florida sun. Here's a link to their catalog:
http://ssicustomplastics.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/SSI-2016-Product-Catalog.pdf
Lots of stuff that I'm definitely interested in.
http://ssicustomplastics.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/SSI-2016-Product-Catalog.pdf
Lots of stuff that I'm definitely interested in.
rlrenz
Explorer
The mail man just dropped off the 110-12 control board, and it has two burned spots on the back at two relay connections.
What I bet happened is that it failed in service, and when they installed the new one, the old one got saved, just in case they needed parts from it. They wrapped it in the packaging that the new one came in, and it was eventually included in a municipal surplus sale. Whoever bought it probably didn't unwrap it to get a closer look – it was wrapped in an ESD bag. I'm willing to give him the benefit of the doubt, particularly since Hoseline is very oddball to work with if you haven't run into it before-
Regardless, even at the purchase price of $59, it was well worth the price. New relays will cost me $6.96 per each (Digi-Key Electronics), and that way, I'll wind up with a rebuilt module for a LOT less than the $390 that Hoseline gets for a new module. Thankfully, these relays meet an ISO standard, so the numbers on the top of the relays are all that I needed to match them up.
There are two identical relays – they handle the main condenser fan, one for vehicle power, and one for shore power. Since they both do the same job, I'll replace both, just in case.
It's a 70 amp relay, so I figure that either it got contaminated (doubtful – the board is way to clean), something short cycled the relay, or (my own favorite idea) – someone coupled both a primary and a secondary condenser to the “Condenser” terminal, instead of to the “Condenser” and “Secondary Condenser” terminals. The board came from North Carolina, so a primary and a secondary condenser makes sense. Hoseline usually puts a single condenser on a 40 amp fuse, so two condensers could completely load / overload a 70 amp relay.
Par for the course – one or two steps forward, one or two steps backward. The relays are on order, and it will take longer to remove the old relays than to install the new ones. I'll open up the failed relay to see if I can see what caused the failure.
With this board, I can build what I need. Instead of having this board control the whole AC system, I'm going to just have it control the 110 volt portion through a separate thermostat (labeled Shore Power AC, or similar). Both systems can control the same blower by letting the shore power pull in a relay to transfer the relay to the shore system.
What I bet happened is that it failed in service, and when they installed the new one, the old one got saved, just in case they needed parts from it. They wrapped it in the packaging that the new one came in, and it was eventually included in a municipal surplus sale. Whoever bought it probably didn't unwrap it to get a closer look – it was wrapped in an ESD bag. I'm willing to give him the benefit of the doubt, particularly since Hoseline is very oddball to work with if you haven't run into it before-
Regardless, even at the purchase price of $59, it was well worth the price. New relays will cost me $6.96 per each (Digi-Key Electronics), and that way, I'll wind up with a rebuilt module for a LOT less than the $390 that Hoseline gets for a new module. Thankfully, these relays meet an ISO standard, so the numbers on the top of the relays are all that I needed to match them up.
There are two identical relays – they handle the main condenser fan, one for vehicle power, and one for shore power. Since they both do the same job, I'll replace both, just in case.
It's a 70 amp relay, so I figure that either it got contaminated (doubtful – the board is way to clean), something short cycled the relay, or (my own favorite idea) – someone coupled both a primary and a secondary condenser to the “Condenser” terminal, instead of to the “Condenser” and “Secondary Condenser” terminals. The board came from North Carolina, so a primary and a secondary condenser makes sense. Hoseline usually puts a single condenser on a 40 amp fuse, so two condensers could completely load / overload a 70 amp relay.
Par for the course – one or two steps forward, one or two steps backward. The relays are on order, and it will take longer to remove the old relays than to install the new ones. I'll open up the failed relay to see if I can see what caused the failure.
With this board, I can build what I need. Instead of having this board control the whole AC system, I'm going to just have it control the 110 volt portion through a separate thermostat (labeled Shore Power AC, or similar). Both systems can control the same blower by letting the shore power pull in a relay to transfer the relay to the shore system.
rlrenz
Explorer
My list of Parts-To-Be-Found is shrinking (at least, for the air conditioner installation). AS I have said, the simple solution would be to stick an RV air conditioner on the roof, except then I wouldn't have 4" of clearance between the roof of the ambulance and the top of the garage door anymore - it would be a press fit. I figure the end result would look better (both the ambulance and my garage) if I didn't mess with the garage door, and instead just spent money on the ambulance by installing an ambulance stand-by 120 volt Ac system. The premier stand-by ambulance systems are built by Hoseline, and I can buy a used one if the dealer gets to install it - but the cost is definitely up there.
I've been scrounging parts for the project from EBAY and from friends of mine who repair ambulances, and I'm getting there. Friday, a Hoseline R134A compressor showed up that I had found on EBAY. The creature was NIB, and apparently designed to convert an R22 system to R134A. It came with a new compressor, a compressor cooling fan, starting and running capacitors, and a starting relay. Everything was in the factory packages, with all the paper tags. The misc. parts were packaged in plastic bags.
Now if I can just find an under-body condenser.....
I've been scrounging parts for the project from EBAY and from friends of mine who repair ambulances, and I'm getting there. Friday, a Hoseline R134A compressor showed up that I had found on EBAY. The creature was NIB, and apparently designed to convert an R22 system to R134A. It came with a new compressor, a compressor cooling fan, starting and running capacitors, and a starting relay. Everything was in the factory packages, with all the paper tags. The misc. parts were packaged in plastic bags.
Now if I can just find an under-body condenser.....