NeverEnough
Adventurer
There are times during this project when progress seems to slow to a snail's pace. Work responsibilities, helpers taking time off, and technical challenges make it tough to move quickly. But I'm doing what I can, when I can.
One of my older brothers used to own a cabinet shop, so he dropped by last weekend to lend a hand and some coaching on laminating the cabinet surfaces.
One of my sons got in on the action:
All of the wiring and insulation is wrapped up. Here's a shot of the Aerogel up close:
It then gets covered with a 3/16" radiant/reflective insulation:
Both are applied with spray adhesive. The composite ceiling and wall paneling are tongue and groove, and in order for the reflective insulation to do it's job better, a small air gap is needed between in the insulation and the paneling. I used 5/8" plywood strips (just about the only wood in the entire build) to create the gap, as well as provide a suitable substrate to screw in the paneling.
The ceiling paneling is a 12" wide plank, 3/8" thick (mostly air). We used a hole saw to make the cutouts for the LED puck lights.
I didn't have much data to go on to determine how many pucks to use for good illumination, so I decided to err on the side of too much. Once I hooked them up, that became obvious.......
I finally got around to testing the generator. It worked, so it was time to get it permantly mounted. Step one was to fill gaps that wouldn't be accessible without removing the generator housing. I've been doing my best to make sure that every component is properly nested and anchored to protect against the constant vibrations of the road.
In an effort to isolate the generator's vibration as much as possible, I decided to use a dual rubber mount setup. The first set of mounts are for the generator's fire-resistant enclosure. The holes in the compartment floor are for the generator's ventilation and exhaust ports.
Fire blanket insulation was then foil-taped in place to create a "gasket" between the compartment floor and the generator enclosure.
The enclosure is made from 3/4" marine-grade plywood, lined with galvanized steel inside and Scorpion on the outside. You can see the end of the fuel tank on the left, with a quick-connect coupler. The compartment door will have a gasket that will match up with the enclosure in an effort to keep fumes and noise from the inside of the compartment.
The generator is mounted with rubber vibration isolation feet to a steel frame. I started with the Generac generic chassis mounting frame, did some serious surgery, and then mounted the frame to two 500lb. Accuride slides. The generator can be slid in and out of the enclosure for servicing or removal (the slip-on exhaust has to be removed, since it extends below the compartment floor).
I also finished up the filler the neck assembly installation for the generator/toy tank. I ended up using a diesel neck because it fit better than the other choices. I'll have to paint the cap! I'm also going to replace the hatch door with something beefier. You can also see the texture of the exterior coating.
I picked up all of the upholstered items this week and they all fit! Business travel will keep me from spending much time at the shop this week, but I've got my cousin working full-time on the inside finish work. It's always tempting to cut corners at this stage, but I'm going to try to maintain discipline and make sure we don't scrimp on the finishing touches.
One of my older brothers used to own a cabinet shop, so he dropped by last weekend to lend a hand and some coaching on laminating the cabinet surfaces.
One of my sons got in on the action:
All of the wiring and insulation is wrapped up. Here's a shot of the Aerogel up close:
It then gets covered with a 3/16" radiant/reflective insulation:
Both are applied with spray adhesive. The composite ceiling and wall paneling are tongue and groove, and in order for the reflective insulation to do it's job better, a small air gap is needed between in the insulation and the paneling. I used 5/8" plywood strips (just about the only wood in the entire build) to create the gap, as well as provide a suitable substrate to screw in the paneling.
The ceiling paneling is a 12" wide plank, 3/8" thick (mostly air). We used a hole saw to make the cutouts for the LED puck lights.
I didn't have much data to go on to determine how many pucks to use for good illumination, so I decided to err on the side of too much. Once I hooked them up, that became obvious.......
I finally got around to testing the generator. It worked, so it was time to get it permantly mounted. Step one was to fill gaps that wouldn't be accessible without removing the generator housing. I've been doing my best to make sure that every component is properly nested and anchored to protect against the constant vibrations of the road.
In an effort to isolate the generator's vibration as much as possible, I decided to use a dual rubber mount setup. The first set of mounts are for the generator's fire-resistant enclosure. The holes in the compartment floor are for the generator's ventilation and exhaust ports.
Fire blanket insulation was then foil-taped in place to create a "gasket" between the compartment floor and the generator enclosure.
The enclosure is made from 3/4" marine-grade plywood, lined with galvanized steel inside and Scorpion on the outside. You can see the end of the fuel tank on the left, with a quick-connect coupler. The compartment door will have a gasket that will match up with the enclosure in an effort to keep fumes and noise from the inside of the compartment.
The generator is mounted with rubber vibration isolation feet to a steel frame. I started with the Generac generic chassis mounting frame, did some serious surgery, and then mounted the frame to two 500lb. Accuride slides. The generator can be slid in and out of the enclosure for servicing or removal (the slip-on exhaust has to be removed, since it extends below the compartment floor).
I also finished up the filler the neck assembly installation for the generator/toy tank. I ended up using a diesel neck because it fit better than the other choices. I'll have to paint the cap! I'm also going to replace the hatch door with something beefier. You can also see the texture of the exterior coating.
I picked up all of the upholstered items this week and they all fit! Business travel will keep me from spending much time at the shop this week, but I've got my cousin working full-time on the inside finish work. It's always tempting to cut corners at this stage, but I'm going to try to maintain discipline and make sure we don't scrimp on the finishing touches.
Last edited: