Ford Prefect
Expedition Leader
Are there any amazing photographers and your family? Perhaps a nice local shots would be good to incorporate.
C5500 TopKick 4x4 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter NeverEnough
- Start date
t3kn0logix
New member
how much do you think you are into this project, cost wise? I'm looking at starting a similar setup, but what i'd like to do is set up a service truck (i'm a heavy duty mechanic) and have it so i can dolly off the service body on the stabilizers and use the frame like you have to drop in the same spec size camper for weekend trips, just disconnect a few harnesses etc and off i go sort of deal. are there any tie downs or what have you to secure it in the frame once it is all lowered in? Awesome build, i love the second story design, and the slide, and even a motorcycle lift. Just nuts.
NeverEnough, awesome build! I just came across your thread (don't know how I missed it).
We are building a Funmover type camper on a Isuzu NRR truck with 20 foot flatbed, although I am now coveting that C5500. I didn't even know they made a 4x4 C5500. Oh well, I have the Isuzu, so should at least test the camper on that. The length will be around 25 feet total but still have the capability to carry 6 dirt bikes or two snowmobiles in the garage pod.
Our height will be about the same as yours (12 feet) and our width is 100 inches (not counting any awnings). Have you had any issues with height?
It looks like that honeycomb material is a lot easier than our steel frame, aluminum wall construction...bummer. I may steal that idea for our garage pod that mounts on the flatbed behind the camper. What took you a few days to build took us months.
I did a drawing of what our camper and garage pod will look like sitting on the Isuzu flatbed, but now I want to get the specs on a extended C5500 and visualize that. I bet it would be awesome.
We are building a Funmover type camper on a Isuzu NRR truck with 20 foot flatbed, although I am now coveting that C5500. I didn't even know they made a 4x4 C5500. Oh well, I have the Isuzu, so should at least test the camper on that. The length will be around 25 feet total but still have the capability to carry 6 dirt bikes or two snowmobiles in the garage pod.
Our height will be about the same as yours (12 feet) and our width is 100 inches (not counting any awnings). Have you had any issues with height?
It looks like that honeycomb material is a lot easier than our steel frame, aluminum wall construction...bummer. I may steal that idea for our garage pod that mounts on the flatbed behind the camper. What took you a few days to build took us months.
I did a drawing of what our camper and garage pod will look like sitting on the Isuzu flatbed, but now I want to get the specs on a extended C5500 and visualize that. I bet it would be awesome.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
The cost question comes up a lot, so forgive me if I'm not as direct as you'd probably like. When it comes to custom, cost is a function of time and materials. I had to buy a lot of "time" because of other commitments on my own time. On the flip side, my work situation allowed me to source a lot of the materials for less than what most would have to pay. I don't think my build is a good financial comp for anybody, except for specific components, i.e. the two different chassis, or fabbing the aluminum subframe. As I stated several times in this thread, in general, it is much cheaper to buy than build, especially if you're building from "scratch" as I did. I think I have some sort of disease when it comes to wanting to reinvent the wheel. There's some awesome examples of economical builds on this board that get the job done just fine. Mine is not one of them, so if your goal is trying to save money, my approach will not serve you well. But I did learn some cool stuff that can be applied to anybody's project, regardless of the budgetary approach.
Having the ability quickly remove my camper from the truck is very handy, and there's no reason why you couldn't do the same thing with a service body. The implementation can be as expensive or inexpensive as you want. I think your challenge would be to create the right interface between the truck and the two bodies. I use a "permanent" aluminum subframe, spring-bolted onto the rails (like water trucks). My bottom shape of the camper body is the inverse of the subframe shape, so the two components "interlock" very tightly, like puzzle pieces. Only vertical movement is possible, and that is eliminated with 4) 7,000lb. latches. It's worked just fine, no problems so far. I use some custom Reico Titan electric jacks to lift and lower the body onto the subframe. Sometimes I wish I gone hydraulic, but the electric setup is simple.
My only connection is for the marker lights- the camper is fully independent.
Glad you like the build. It's a lot of fun, even if it does have too many moving parts!
NeverEnough
Adventurer
I'm over 13' now, and, yes, being that tall definitely puts limits on where you can go. Highway obstacles are the obvious ones, but there are a lot of dirt roads that are plenty wide, but have overhead features that make them off-limits for us. And I'm 106" wide, which means I'm trimming the bushes everywhere we go!
Working with PPE honeycomb is definitely not easy, at least for going big like I did. It took way more than a few days to build those shells, and months of experimentation before I started to figure out the right techniques, adhesives, tools ($$$) etc. I'm very pleased with the end product, but it's definitely faster to stick with traditional, time-tested, truck-body construction techniques- even those using composite panels.
I think the C5500 is a great truck for a lot of things, but if you think your rig is going to come in over 18-19K lbs, I'd go for a bigger truck. I know Tulsa Truck has done some NPR 4x4 conversions. Good luck, hope you post your build on the forum.
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
In 'general' it seems 8 ft (96") to 8 ft 6 in (102") is max width and 13 ft 6in (162") to 14 ft (168") is max height from the list here: rvroadlaws.htm
cwsqbm
Explorer
It depends on where you're measuring. Things like awnings (as long as less that 3" out) and mirrors (and other safety items) don't count. Still, a body width over 96" is technically restricted to certain routes, but few states enforce it. Most modern RVs are close to 102" in body width.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
Point of clarification, the actual body is 101.25", in order to stay under the 102" requirement. The 106" is the actual clearance I need due to the crap that sticks out- awning, side spot lights, and the feet of the leveling jacks.
Neverenough, I am still reading through your thread and get more impressed with each page.
I have a question about camper jacks. Our flatbed Isuzu NRR truck is 41 inches off the ground to where the bottom of the camper sits. I didn't know a lot about camper jacks when we started but went with Reico Titan off the shelf manual round jacks to get started. Because I was worried about the 100" width of our camper and my ability to back the 20 foot flatbed between the jacks, I made them with long extensions but with welded receiver tubes for quick mounting. The plan is to store them under the truck.
If I want to lower the camper close to the ground, I have to reposition the three ring clamps that clamp around the main tube on the jack. Your jacks look infinitely better. I see no reason why yours would not work in our situation, what do you think? I have included a couple of pics to show what I am talking about. I didn't even know you could get drop leg jacks made by Reico.
I have a question about camper jacks. Our flatbed Isuzu NRR truck is 41 inches off the ground to where the bottom of the camper sits. I didn't know a lot about camper jacks when we started but went with Reico Titan off the shelf manual round jacks to get started. Because I was worried about the 100" width of our camper and my ability to back the 20 foot flatbed between the jacks, I made them with long extensions but with welded receiver tubes for quick mounting. The plan is to store them under the truck.
If I want to lower the camper close to the ground, I have to reposition the three ring clamps that clamp around the main tube on the jack. Your jacks look infinitely better. I see no reason why yours would not work in our situation, what do you think? I have included a couple of pics to show what I am talking about. I didn't even know you could get drop leg jacks made by Reico.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
Mine were done custom by Reico using 2.5" square tubing with 28" drop legs. The guy to talk to there is Doug Bakker. Just tell them what you want, pay the $$$, and they'll make it. Mine are actually too short now with the new truck, so I'm having another set made.
NeverEnough
Adventurer
Liking the new truck
Headed south with the family this past week. Late departure, all lit up before rolling out:
We camped in the Grand Staircase, off Cottonwood Road that connects UT12 to Big Water/Kanab on 89. First stop was Grosvenor Arch.
Unhooking the trailer in order to pull forward for slide out deployment. In usual fashion, we setup a central basecamp, then buzzed around on the dirt bikes for day trips. Amazingly warm and dry- too dry. We were walking down slot canyons that are normally flowing this time of year without getting our feet wet.
I continue to be impressed with the off-road capabilities of the 7400. My only complaint so far is wind noise from the forward doors at highway speeds. We drove home in a stiff headwind and it's became obvious that I've got adjust the hinges on the forward doors to get a better seal. Unfortunately, I'm clueless about how to go about it, so unless someone on the forum has some experience with these doors, it'll probably be a trial and error ordeal.
Headed south with the family this past week. Late departure, all lit up before rolling out:
We camped in the Grand Staircase, off Cottonwood Road that connects UT12 to Big Water/Kanab on 89. First stop was Grosvenor Arch.
Unhooking the trailer in order to pull forward for slide out deployment. In usual fashion, we setup a central basecamp, then buzzed around on the dirt bikes for day trips. Amazingly warm and dry- too dry. We were walking down slot canyons that are normally flowing this time of year without getting our feet wet.
I continue to be impressed with the off-road capabilities of the 7400. My only complaint so far is wind noise from the forward doors at highway speeds. We drove home in a stiff headwind and it's became obvious that I've got adjust the hinges on the forward doors to get a better seal. Unfortunately, I'm clueless about how to go about it, so unless someone on the forum has some experience with these doors, it'll probably be a trial and error ordeal.
Looks really good, the doors are easy to adjust, easier than stuff you've already done for sure! I fell in love with the Kanab, Coral Dunes area a couple of years ago on a drive to Phoenix, always said we'd return. Is there a lot of land that is open in the area? We are heading to Moab for EJS this year, taking 2-3 days to get there, spend a week, 2-3 days home. I'm going to show the kids the area, bringing the mountain bikes for a few days of mountain biking, maybe should bring the dirt bikes instead?
NeverEnough
Adventurer
While Utah has tons of dirt roads, a lot of them require a street-legal designation. IMHO, the Moab area is not the best for younger riders due to limited choices. However, there's tons of great riding in the "Swell" to the west, and it doesn't take long to get there from Moab. But we tend to bring both mtn. bikes and dirt bikes, so we can do both. PM me if you want more intel. I can get you some great beta for your trip!