Cab to Camper Pass Through???
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Iain_U1250
Explorer
The insulation is a local product made by Higgins Insulation, it was developed for insulation in buses. It is a polyester product. The bag and inner seal material is a PVC material - POLYMAR® 8556, pretty standard stuff for side curtains on open sided trucks. The bag was both glued Bostik 2405 contact glue used for repairing inflatable boat, then sewn for added strength.
The internal seal is the only thing that is directly connected to box cab and camper. the gap is 75mm, but the seal is 400mm. The bag is stuck onto the cab of the truck, and can slide on the camper. The compression from the cab against the camper box is enough to create a good seal but most important is it keeps the sound and heat out. It needs the inner seal to ensure it is completely water tight, and it has worked well..
The internal seal is the only thing that is directly connected to box cab and camper. the gap is 75mm, but the seal is 400mm. The bag is stuck onto the cab of the truck, and can slide on the camper. The compression from the cab against the camper box is enough to create a good seal but most important is it keeps the sound and heat out. It needs the inner seal to ensure it is completely water tight, and it has worked well..
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Iain_U1250
Explorer
The insulation is a polyester material, it doesn't absorb water like the fibreglass or foam type insulation. My wife reminded me that to seal the hole in the middle of the bag, we used velcro, glued onto the edge with a 50mm overlap. The corners of the inside of the hole needed another piece of material which was glued in. There is no seam along the top of the bag it is made from one piece of material with the fold over the top. It is quite a complex thing to make, she made a small trial bag from cheap nylon first to figure out how to make it.
Our opening is 1150x550mm, so your should not be a problem.
Our opening is 1150x550mm, so your should not be a problem.
Iain_U1250
Explorer
It is a matting, here are some photos of the left overs.
Here is a photo of how we stop the inner seal from coming down whilst driving - looking up at the shock chord.
Here is a photo of how we stop the inner seal from coming down whilst driving - looking up at the shock chord.
Ramdough
Adventurer
Lain,
Would you see any issue of switching the bellows to the outside of the pillow? I was wondering if you bungee cords would not be needed if it were done that way. Plus the pillow would stay dry. I have an alternate way to disconnecting the tunnel in mind for engine work.
Thanks!
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Coachgeo
Explorer
hard to tell with the font here.... but pretty sure it is "Iain"
Iain_U1250
Explorer
I think you could put the bellows on the outside, but it would be a huge bellows on my truck and I don't think I would have enough space. I have the heavy rubber seals one the outside to protect the bag material. Tilting the cab for me means something have seriously gone wrong, and removing the bellows would be the least of my problems 
Ramdough
Adventurer
I think you could put the bellows on the outside, but it would be a huge bellows on my truck and I don't think I would have enough space. I have the heavy rubber seals one the outside to protect the bag material. Tilting the cab for me means something have seriously gone wrong, and removing the bellows would be the least of my problems
View attachment 545980
I just noticed something I have not seen before.
Does your pillow go edge too edge on your cab? It looks like it is the entire width of your truck.
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Coachgeo
Explorer
does the pillow catch dust between it and camper wall; thus marring the finish on the camper wall. Was a problem I had with a bra on a car. Dust between would sandpaper the finish.....have the heavy rubber seals one the outside to protect the bag material. Tilting the cab for me means something have seriously gone wrong, and removing the bellows would be the least of my problems
Iain_U1250
Explorer
It does, I tried some HPDE sheeting on the back wall, but with the heat and UV it has started to break down. One day I may put a proper wrap on the back wall, but to be honest, I have an aluminium skin on the camper, and it is not going to rust. So far there the paint has not worn through anywhere either. I didn't use a car paint, but a very heavy duty industrial paint, trees don't scratch it at all, and the finish is still great. I use a decent polish and wash the truck to keep it clean.
Has anybody done a pass-through that is able to be closed off if the camper body is removed?
I would love to have a flatbed (FUSO, F550, Ram 5500, etc.) where I could build a flatbed camper using perhaps a Total Composites body. Having the pass through would be great, especially since a cabover doesn't have a lot of space for the dogs. So they could crash on their beds inside the camper while traveling. Also, all the other benefits of pass through like inclement weather, security, etc.
But, when we're not using the camper, I want to be able to remove it and have access to the flatbed to use it as a truck. Would need to be able to close up and seal the pass through to the cab for that.
Anybody out there done this?
I would love to have a flatbed (FUSO, F550, Ram 5500, etc.) where I could build a flatbed camper using perhaps a Total Composites body. Having the pass through would be great, especially since a cabover doesn't have a lot of space for the dogs. So they could crash on their beds inside the camper while traveling. Also, all the other benefits of pass through like inclement weather, security, etc.
But, when we're not using the camper, I want to be able to remove it and have access to the flatbed to use it as a truck. Would need to be able to close up and seal the pass through to the cab for that.
Anybody out there done this?