Cabover Expo Build (Advice needed)

Ryflyer11/11

New member
Hey all, I see that I opened a can of worms. I've been looking for a 5.9 in MT and DAMN, they command a high price.

Here is an update.

1) Through a friend, I've got a lead on a 2005 5.9L Cummins, 4x4 in Oregon with only 65k on it. Totally stock, two owners, and well maintained. Unfortunately, the dude wants somewhere around $25,000 for it (he hasn't given me a firm price yet), which way exceeds my budget. Part of me feels like it might be worth it to take out a loan and then own and baby the thing for the rest of my life. It does seem absurd to pay that much for a 15-year-old vehicle though. Maybe this is wiser than buying something for 17-20k in the 150-250k mile range and then having to spend $$$$$ to re-do front end, suspension ect.

2) I have been talking to this guy and am thinking of having this run through the shop. I know that because of the emmissions stuff, the 6.7L are less reliable than the 5.9, but I would hope that I might still be able to get 100k miles out of it without too much trouble. Two owner, first was a mechanic and the last one was a construction foreman who used it as his personal rig.


All the expertise and experience on here is appreciated!

-Ry
 

Overdrive

Adventurer
It does seem absurd to pay that much for a 15-year-old vehicle though. Maybe this is wiser than buying something for 17-20k in the 150-250k mile range and then having to spend $$$$$ to re-do front end, suspension ect.

I think it is wiser to go with the 65K mileage one--much better motor; fewer problems in the long run. $5K more for 110K fewer miles and a better motor. How many miles per year would you be driving it? If, for example, you'd do 11K per year, that's 10 years of driving for only $5K to match the mileage. No brainer.
 

Ryflyer11/11

New member
I think it is wiser to go with the 65K mileage one--much better motor; fewer problems in the long run. $5K more for 110K fewer miles and a better motor. How many miles per year would you be driving it? If, for example, you'd do 11K per year, that's 10 years of driving for only $5K to match the mileage. No brainer.

The only reasons I am leaning towards the 6.7 are a) it is an hour from where i live. b) it already has a flatbed on it, which is in the plan for the build c) it is actually within my budget, whereas the low mileage 5.9 will require me to go over 6k. I think you are probably right though.
 

Overdrive

Adventurer
Another thing...with these early common rail Cummins engines in the Dodge (starting in 2003), the injectors are precision compared to the earlier ones, and need better filtration. They didn't know that at the time, or Dodge didn't care. Consequently, injectors start failing around 150,000 to 200,000 miles. To replace 6 common rail injectors, you are looking at a $4K to $5K expense. Avoid that with the low mileage one-- add an aftermarket super filter now and you'll be good for a long time.

I don't know if you are considering the second gen Dodge (1994-2002) but those injectors are less than $1K last time I looked and easy enough to change out yourself. With the common rail injectors you'd probably need to have a shop do the job. New, "better" technology always results in higher repair costs and the need for a costly professional mechanic. ;)
 

Ryflyer11/11

New member
Hey all. I ended up with the 2007 5.9 cummins flatbed with 177k on the engine. New injectors done at 140k. The guy in oregon sold the thing for like 35k which was way out of my budget. I am now looking to do some basic upgrades/maintainance things to the dodge. I am planning on doing the upper and lower ball joints on both sides with EMF joints, and all the tie rod ends.

My question is, while I am in there, what would be the best/cheapest first upgrade to make the thing a little more capable off road with the camper on the back. A hellwig Sway bar? Bigger tires? Some new shocks? New coilovers and struts?

I am not very informed about these things, so educate me? Where would it be best to put my money?
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Bigger tires are over rated. Leave them stock. I would not change any of the drive train, keep it all stock and maintain it.
Get onto the living accomodations, get the camper installed, work on the systems, power, water, heat, food storage and next year if you think you "need" to change something mechanical do it. But with a budget and a goal of living in it for a year, focus on the livability. The truck is basically bullet proof completely stock.
 

Rockey709

Active member
I’ve owned both of the unicorn diesels (7.3ford and 5.9ram). My experience was like meeting your childhood hero’s later in life... it’s ok, but not what you thought. The premium you pay for a 25 year old diesel is pure insanity and as several above mentioned, the maintenance cycle is increased on diesel (as is the cost) especially if you’re paying others to do it. Both options are capable and will do the job of well maintained, but efficiency truly is t what people claim... it’s just not, sorry. You’re NOT getting 20 mpg on a camper truck with the aerodynamic properties of a cliff face. Stop perpetuating that lie! Please stop!

Get a gas variant and make life easy! They are long lived and quiet by comparison. Not prone to overheating, gas is easy to buy everywhere (not so for diesel) and something not mentioned is that diesel exhaust will permeate everything you own. The bedding, your clothes, your toilet paper, EVERYTHING! Feeling smelly and oily is only so much fun. It gets in your nose hair and never leaves lol.

(Can’t believe I’m saying this) because I prefer old and simple, but more modern gassers can deliver a smooth powerful output with zero drama these days. Fuel economy can be “reasonable” in several of the offerings from Ford and ram (special shout to Chevy 6.0/6.2) as well though I haven’t owned one.

at the end of the day, get a good truck that was maintained well and has the features you want. Suspension and power seats can always be added, but you can’t make an extra cab into a full 4 door,etc. All of the engines you see above will do the job so get the best one you can find with good maintenance history. You’ll have fun.
 

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