Camp Chef Bulk Propane Pressure

[john61ct]

My first guess is they thought "camp stove", didn't actually look up the flow rate that model sucks down with both burners going full out, and therefore spec'd too thin a hose for that long length.

These are bog-standard valve fittings, ACME/QCC1 I'm guessing on your 10# bottle just like a BBQ tank, and Coleman style 1"-20 at your stove's regulator.

So if you're too far away now to take it back for them to make it right, it is trivial for you to DIY with OTS parts, just make sure to get a quality (nice fat) hose.

There are also adjustable variable-pressure high capacity regulators you can put on the tank side, usual practice for safety.

Note also extreme cold will greatly reduce pressure with such a small tank.

 

[ajmaudio]

i was thinking the regulator is in the stove as it is with most that are setup for the little green bottles. If thats the case and there is a regulator at the tank then that would be a problem.

 

[agent00111]

Make sure the stove is off before you open the tank. It confuses the pressure regulator if your valves are open when you open the tank.


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Yup, I think this is the problem I was having.

What I was doing at the end of a cook was I'd shut the propane off at the tank, and burn off any propane in the line. I was leaving the stove valve open (tank valve closed) and then I'd disconnect the line and stow it. Then the next time I'd us it, I'd connect the line to the propane tank and the stove, open the pressure on the tank and immediately spark the burner. I think that was confusing the regulator.

What works now is that I make sure my stove valve is closed and propane tank valve is closed, connect the line, open the valve on the tank. Then I open the valve on the stove and spark that and then both of the 20k BTU burners work fine.

Thanks Socal Tom!

 

[SoCal Tom]

Yup, I think this is the problem I was having.

What I was doing at the end of a cook was I'd shut the propane off at the tank, and burn off any propane in the line. I was leaving the stove valve open (tank valve closed) and then I'd disconnect the line and stow it. Then the next time I'd us it, I'd connect the line to the propane tank and the stove, open the pressure on the tank and immediately spark the burner. I think that was confusing the regulator.

What works now is that I make sure my stove valve is closed and propane tank valve is closed, connect the line, open the valve on the tank. Then I open the valve on the stove and spark that and then both of the 20k BTU burners work fine.

Thanks Socal Tom!

Its always great when its an easy fix.

 

[perterra]

How does it confuse a regulator?

 

[SoCal Tom]

How does it confuse a regulator?

I’m not an expert, but I think what happens is that when you open the tank valve and the output side is open, the regulator doesn’t fully open, so you get reduced flow. Closing the output side doesn’t seem to fix it, you have to bleed all the pressure and start over. I discovered this first when changing the tank on my home BBQ. Seems to be a common issue.


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[perterra]

If the regulator has a surge protector it could be creating conditions similar to a leak.

The overfill protection device on the tank can also create the problem described, its just a ball float that can activate on a full tank that isnt sitting level or liquid tries to enter your valve on the tank.

I did a little digging, I have almost no experience with the small fixed pressure propane regulators, a lot of experience with heavy industrial adjustable flow regulators, and a lot of experience with the over fill protection devices creating issues.

To quote, and I think this is what you are saying.

"The activation of either the Surge Protection Device or the Overfill protection Device can be corrected by the same actions. First, make sure the grill and the propane cylinder are in a level position. Second, Make sure all burner knobs are in the off position. Turn them clockwise until they stop then push them in and turn them clockwise again to make sure they are fully in the off position. Third, Make sure the tank is in the off position. This knob also turns clockwise to close the valve. Check the imprinted information on the valve knob to make sure. Once the burner knobs have been closed and the valve on the on the tank has been closed, the Surge Protection Device will reset to open. The OPD will also reset. You can then open the tank valve very slowly, giving the hose time to pressurize. Turn on one of the burner knobs and light the grill. You should experience a very good flame at the burner and can then light the rest of the burner."

 

[SoCal Tom]

To quote, and I think this is what you are saying.

"The activation of either the Surge Protection Device or the Overfill protection Device can be corrected by the same actions. First, make sure the grill and the propane cylinder are in a level position. Second, Make sure all burner knobs are in the off position. Turn them clockwise until they stop then push them in and turn them clockwise again to make sure they are fully in the off position. Third, Make sure the tank is in the off position. This knob also turns clockwise to close the valve. Check the imprinted information on the valve knob to make sure. Once the burner knobs have been closed and the valve on the on the tank has been closed, the Surge Protection Device will reset to open. The OPD will also reset. You can then open the tank valve very slowly, giving the hose time to pressurize. Turn on one of the burner knobs and light the grill. You should experience a very good flame at the burner and can then light the rest of the burner."

Almost, if the condition occurs then in the following order 1) turn off the tank, 2)then bleed off the pressure in the line/regulator either by opening the valves on the stove, or unhooking the gas line from the stove. 3) Once the pressure has been bled off, then reattach hose and ensure that valves on stove are closed. 4) Open tank valve. 5) you are now free to use stove.