Cargo Baskets - Show me how you secure your load!

[robert]

Just thinking here but maybe check around surplus places in your area and you might get lucky. I've seen the security mesh used on wheeled carts before at stores (the one I'm thinking of specifically had fur coats in it at a store). I've also seen them as curtains at stores in the mall (malls are still a thing overseas) and what's called architectural mesh that was decorative as well as functional to along stairs (I guess to keep kids from falling through them). Maybe give a company like this one a call and see if they have any leftover pieces? https://www.architecturalmesh.net/architecturalmesh/stainless-steel-rope-mesh.html The Chinese will be happy to sell you some at $24/ft^2, no idea on shipping fees. https://www.ecvv.com/product/4696665.html

Even if you just made a flat sheet of the stuff like NatersXJ6 suggested (here's 100' of 1/8" stainless cable: https://www.amazon.com/SELIKOUR-Sta...ywords=stainless+cable&qid=1574829329&sr=8-30 that you could use to make some like in the ecvv.com link) you could run one of the ratcheting security straps around it to tighten it down. The kind with the steel cable in them to prevent them being easily cut. I've never tried them but here are some examples: https://steelcore.com/ https://www.amazon.com/Lockable-Security-Lashing-LightSPEED-Outdoors/dp/B075H19QXC https://www.yakima.com/ripcord

I wove a small fishing net before (Boy Scout project many moons ago) and would think you could do something like that with thinner flexible cable. Maybe? Probably be easier to use the barrel clamps.

As for the Pacsafe, I was just thinking you could stick your stuff in a duffel and stick the duffel in the Pacsafe. I've done that with my North Face Base Camp Duffels before. I've got two of the Pacsafes, one for a smaller pack and one for a larger size. They put them on sale periodically.

 

[thebmrust]

Look for the Packasport brand cargo carriers. While they tend to be long, they have a very wide version and they are low profile and rear opening. However, they are also the most expensive rooftop cargo carriers out there. You might find one on Craigslist that the seller doesn’t know what it is, or from a yard sale. But that could take years.

An alternative, get two low profile rear hitch carriers and flip one upside down. Hinge them together and lock them. Maybe line them with the expanded steel mesh like on elevated industrial walkways. Or fabricate a lid with steel or aluminum tubing for your existing rooftop unit and line them with expanded metal. Could go with all aluminum for a weight saving option, but that’s going to expensive.

 

[Nghtrgr]

What do you consider low profile? Under 15"? 12" 10"?

I hate ratchet straps and don't use them. I require security, locking the case to the rack and locking the cases, but I also want to be able to open the case while on the rack at camp.

So my solution is I use two big pelican cases, 1730's on lockable (EO)2 mounts. It is pretty tall, but about the same as a jerry can on its side. My Land Rover is pretty tall anyway, but it helps that I have flooring and can walk around up there. I can put padlocks on the pelican cases while in town, but otherwise can just open them up on the rack.

Is the flooring part of the rack or did you put it in/on? If so what brand? Thanks

 

[pdXDisco]

Is the flooring part of the rack or did you put it in/on? If so what brand? Thanks

Looks like chicken coup flooring from Farmtek. I have it on my roof rack, great upgrade.

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[mikeyb1976]

I see a rig around town and it looks like they use Plano rifle cases as roof storage. Long and low. I have a couple case for their intended purpose, but I'm thinking about also using them for exterior storage options.

 

[robert]

I see a rig around town and it looks like they use Plano rifle cases as roof storage. Long and low. I have a couple case for their intended purpose, but I'm thinking about also using them for exterior storage options.

Those and the Apache cases from Harbor Freight are popular with some of the Tacomaworld members. Even if you labeled it recovery gear or somesuch, around here some troll would break into the thing hoping it had a firearm in it.

 

[mikeyb1976]

Those and the Apache cases from Harbor Freight are popular with some of the Tacomaworld members. Even if you labeled it recovery gear or somesuch, around here some troll would break into the thing hoping it had a firearm in it.

Right - that's why I'm a little hesitant on going that route when I'll be looking for storage. At least these are pretty heavy-duty cases with a keyed lock and spots for a padlock. Most opportunistic thieves aren't carrying around a butane torch or a hacksaw.

The cases come in 3 lengths - 36" 42" and 52".

There's a newer brand on Amazon I don't recognize, Eylar, who offer similar cases and have limited colors, including pink. Those would work the best, just label them "Essential Oils."

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I would think a bunch of padlocked cases mounted with padlocked EO2 mounts would scream STEAL ME AT ALL COST. If nothing else position the cases so the padlocks face inward unseen by passer bys.

 

[Herbie]

Since this thread is back at the top, I can update:

I'm still running the Harbor Freight "Roof Basket" - at 6", it's tall enough for just about everything that I'd ever put on the roof, but nicely accommodates the occasionally tall or irregular items like firewood. Aside from deleting all the hitch components, the only other change has been to replace all the chinese screws and nuts with rivets. Mounts easily to the T-nut slots in my Surco cross bars.

I'd thought about running one of the hitch-basket cargo bags to keep things dry, but the reality is that 95% of the stuff I put up there can tolerate a bit of weather, so it hasn't been a pressing problem. Finding a reasonably-priced cargo net that fit hasn't been the easiest search, but at the moment I'm getting by using a cheap tailgate net intended for compact trucks:

 

[Cabrito]

Hey Herbie,
I like how you use the hitch hauler on the roof rack. Nice work.

 

[Herbie]

Hey Herbie,
I like how you use the hitch hauler on the roof rack. Nice work.

Thanks!

You know what cracks me up? Not long after I started doing this, Yakima introduced the "SkinnyWarrior" - basically a half-width loadwarrior basket: https://yakima.com/products/skinnywarrior

Very similar overall dimensions ( 58" x 23" x 6.50" vs. 49.5" x 22.5" x 6" ), and maybe slightly heavier than the HF cargo basket. Oh, and MSRP of $349.
(Mine was like $58 w/ stacking 20% coupon on top of a sale price, plus I got some extra parts to play with.)

That said, the Yakima is almost certainly better built, (welded construction), and is compatible with all the usual Yakima accessories - it'd be easier to mount a tray or snowboard rack to the Warrior, for example.

 

[robert]

That's funny, I use one of the HF cargo carriers as the basis for my basket as well but I went with the black steel one (https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-deluxe-cargo-carrier-66983.html). Like you I omitted the 2x2 hitch piece but I made an eight inch (IIRC), extension for the middle then bolted four aluminum plates with slots in them to the bottom of the corners so I could use some Yakima clamps 9and be able to adjust it depnding on what other accessories I had on top. Everything at HF has gone up, I think I paid $39 with a coupon for my rack and I had the other scrap material except for the bolts. I think I got the idea from someone else on here who did the same thing- maybe the guy who makes the fiberglass Jeep tops? I can't recall his screen name off the top of my head.

Like you I wanted something narrower so I could carry my old Yakima SpaceBooster or a kayak or two. I mostly use it to carry my chainsaw and firewood since I don't want that smelly saw stinking up the back or wood getting bugs where I sleep.

 

[MiamiC70]

Yakima LockNLoad platform, Pelican 1720 box mounted on top and if needed set of Yakima eye bolts with straps.

 

[spfd jason]

Did the 2x2 hitch piece detach easily?

 

[Herbie]

Did the 2x2 hitch piece detach easily?

I never even attached it - it's still in the wrapper. You can see from the instructions that the steel tube is a separate piece that you'd have to insert and bolt in: https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/69688.pdf

I did remove the aluminum "tube" that the 2x2 steel tube would have slotted into - on mine it was a cast-aluminum piece that (IIRC) was bolted to the base of the basket. From looking at different versions of the assembly manual, they may have reduced costs even farther by changing to a 2x2 steel tube that has "wings" that attaches to the bottom of the basket. In either case, just skip that step in the instructions. (See the exploded diagram here to see the difference: https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/92000-92999/92655-193175321909.pdf)

In my case, I omitted attaching the "reflectors" that are supposed to go on the rear of the basket, but I DID install the aluminum backing pieces that the reflectors would have attached to, since they're part of the "basket" that fastens the top ring to the bottom. (You can see these on the far-side of the basket in the image below)

Also, my basket included ten 1" strips that connect the top and bottom. There was a fairly wide gap between these on the narrow ends of the basket (normally the "sides"). I added two more strips to tighten this gap using 1" x 1/8" aluminum. (Circled below)
(Just cut the strips to matching length, drilled a hole in each end and matching holes in the top/bottom of the basket flanges and added a couple rivets.)