Some good ideas in this thread. Good advice, too. May I add some?
First, I'm a professional driver and the above mentioned Midland handheld with the mobile adapter is my radio of choice. True, there's no room in the housing for echoes, noise makers, pings, and all the other crap "real" drivers "need". But it's full legal power, has weather and if your antenna system is properly tuned, works great. It comes with a removable, rechargeable battery pack and external antenna so it can go from in-truck mobile to hand-held in a matter of seconds.
Secondly, because the head is removable, when you leave your truck you can either lock it in the glove box or console in a matter of seconds just like your radio faceplate. Or take it with you.
If you DO run this radio it's best to call the techs at Midland and discuss your antenna setup plan. See, the length of the coax from the radio to the very tip of the antenna has to be taken into account. They tried to get the length of the coax in the mobile adapter to be within one of the normal wavelength intervals for the CB bands, but this radio is very susceptible to an antenna that's not in tune, (hence the reason for finding some bad reviews online about it). If it's properly matched to the antenna and truck, it's a GREAT little radio.
About your antenna setups. They obviously need to be grounded to the body /chassis, but did you also know they need a "ground plane" as well. Think of it as a guy on a trampoline. If he jumps in the middle, he goes higher. If he's at the edge, he doesn't. So it follows that the best place for your antenna is **********-dab in the middle of the roof in a drilled hole. But, who wants to do that?
A good compromise is the Wilson mag mounts they are tuned from the factory to take into account the thickness of factory paint in the equation and can easily be tuned for proper SWR, (or Standing Wave Ratio, which is a ratio of the energy sent by the radio to what is reflected back by an antenna that's too long or short).
So if you DON'T want to drill a hole in the center of your roof, (and who does?), look into antennas with available artificial ground-plane kits. These will usually be a section that goes at the base of the antenna with three short poles sticking out. This'll go a long way towards allowing you to mount your antenna at a corner or up on your roof rack. A ground plane can also be simulated with a sheet of flat steel about a foot or so around, mounted inside the roof of a fiberglass shell, as long as it's also grounded to the frame.
Lastly, if you have extra coax in your setup, don't make a tight coil with the excess and wire-tie it together. This creates a coil, which we all know affects electricity. It affects radio signals too. Long lazy figure 8's with a wire-tie in the middle is best. Silicone grease inside and around your connectors will give you a few years of good signal, too.
10-4?