Charging AGM house and flooded lead road batteries through one solar system?

[Fatboyz]

I'm just completing my set up. I have 3- 100 watt panels going through a Victron bluesolar MPPT controller. My initial plan was to use 2 GC2 golf cart batteries for the house batteries. I was going to also charge my road batteries through a Blue Sea ACR. Well I got a great deal on 2 Rolls surette AGM batteries for the house. I have everything plumbed and was still hoping to be able to keep my road batteries topped up through the solar when the truck is sitting, or to have the alternator charge the AGM when the truck is running. I do have a cutoff switch before the ACR so I can isolate the road batteries. I have the controller set for the Rolls AGM batteries right now.
Thoughts?

 

[luthj]

What is the charge profile for the AGMs? What is your alternator voltage? What type of starter battery do you have?

Does Rolls suggest an equalize charge or no?

 

[DiploStrat]

.... I do have a cutoff switch before the ACR so I can isolate the road batteries. I have the controller set for the Rolls AGM batteries right now.
Thoughts?

Isn't that why you bought the ACR? Why the duplication? In any case, some Blue Sea ACR's already have a manual override.

Are you sure you understand what an ACR does and how it works?

Now to be less snarky:

-- Measure, but I would guess that your Ford can produce well over 14v, so it should be able to handle the bulk charge for the AGM's with ease. Make sure your cables can handle up to 100A at 14v at the distance between your starter battery and the camper battery.

-- The Victron solar controller should be able to be dialed in for your AGM's and you can use that to assure that they get that last absorb charge at a high enough voltage.

-- As a final step, consider a good inverter/charger (e.g. Magnum, but Victron have them as well) with an adjustable charge profile. This will make sure that your camper batteries, and your starter batteries, can get a full charge any time you have access to shore power.

 

[dwh]

Yea fine ACR. No worries.

Letting the Rolls suck up what it can from the alternator won't hurt, but unless you drive a lot of hours probably won't be enough to fully top it off.

Set the Victron for the Rolls and let the ACR tie in the truck battery. The truck battery will be 99.9% full most of the time anyway, so a little voltage bump from a few hours of sun won't hurt it and will help to keep it pumped up and healthy.

 

[john61ct]

Note that although Rolls makes fantastic FLA, its AGMs aren't yet proven to be anywhere near in the same league.

My understanding is the OEM is actually Full River.

Note they could have spec'd and put in QA procedures to get a much higher level of quality than what Full River sells under its own label, but. . .

In any case, water under the bridge.

Best practice is, set all important charge sources to connect direct to House with its ideal profile.

Starter will be fine with whatever it gets from the ACR Echo Charger, whatever.

Lose a little lifespan off Starter, NBD, coddle House as much as possible.

Do **not** equalize any AGM except Lifeline. Follow mfg specs closely, do such maintenance procedures manually, ideally each unit separately, turn off any charge source's automatic routines.

 

[Fatboyz]

Isn't that why you bought the ACR? Why the duplication? In any case, some Blue Sea ACR's already have a manual override.

Are you sure you understand what an ACR does and how it works?

Now to be less snarky:

-- Measure, but I would guess that your Ford can produce well over 14v, so it should be able to handle the bulk charge for the AGM's with ease. Make sure your cables can handle up to 100A at 14v at the distance between your starter battery and the camper battery.

-- The Victron solar controller should be able to be dialed in for your AGM's and you can use that to assure that they get that last absorb charge at a high enough voltage.

-- As a final step, consider a good inverter/charger (e.g. Magnum, but Victron have them as well) with an adjustable charge profile. This will make sure that your camper batteries, and your starter batteries, can get a full charge any time you have access to shore power.

Snarkyness aside lol, (that's gotten more than one person a good ass kickin lol), I do know what an ACR does. I have set up every system so that I can completely isolate it. So if I pull batteries etc, I won't have a live wire!
Cheers.

 

[DiploStrat]

In that case you need two switches - one within the traditional 18" from each battery. And don't forget the fuse/breaker at each battery - which you could also use to isolate the batteries.

 

[Fatboyz]

In that case you need two switches - one within the traditional 18" from each battery. And don't forget the fuse/breaker at each battery - which you could also use to isolate the batteries.

Good points. My thoughts were to just isolate each battery bank. The two road batteries and the two AGM. I have cutoffs on my solar both in and out and my 12 volt house side. I plan to have a fuse/breaker on the road battery side of the line that ties the two banks together. I'm using 2 AWG to tie the two banks together. I have all the cutoffs in my main electrical cupboard. Figured while I was doing all the wiring I'd go all in. I got the cutoffs cheap at Princess auto, on sale just 9.99 regular 49.

 

[john61ct]

Switching DC while high amps are flowing is very stressful, requires robust gear.

Blue Sea is good stuff.

 

[DiploStrat]

The goal is to avoid an arc welder running the length of your truck, thus a fuse/breaker at each battery is useful. As you have noted, the link between the batteries will be live on both sides all the time. No reason not to add manual switches for maintenance, but not much reason to do so, either.

My only comment was wondering if you fully understood that the ACR will make and break the circuit as needed, automatically.

If you want manual control, the 500A Blue Sea includes an electrical mechanical override on the unit, as well as a dash switch. You can cobble up a remote (typically dash mounted) switch for many others. (Not sure about the 120A Blue Sea - it may be completely closed off.)

If you have big electrical appliances, e.g. microwave, there is a small argument for a remote switch in the camper, if you have remote engine start. This is handy when you fire up the microwave, which will open, the ACR, and then decide that you want to run the engine to let the alternator help carry the load. N.B. that is carry the load, not charge the battery - you won't be running the engine long enough to really affect the charge.

Anyway, the point is that you don't really need a manual switch in addition to your ACR. It is not the same as a cutoff on the down lead from your solar.

 

[john61ct]

There should be both a fuse and an isolation switch near the post of each bank.

At low current needs a CB can serve as both, as long as not used more frequently than rated.

Not needed between the intra-bank batteries unless long wires required there.

 

[DiploStrat]

...
Using the God like revered BlueSea ML-ACR, it can also serve as disconnect switch.

...

 

[Fatboyz]

The goal is to avoid an arc welder running the length of your truck, thus a fuse/breaker at each battery is useful. As you have noted, the link between the batteries will be live on both sides all the time. No reason not to add manual switches for maintenance, but not much reason to do so, either.

My only comment was wondering if you fully understood that the ACR will make and break the circuit as needed, automatically.

If you want manual control, the 500A Blue Sea includes an electrical mechanical override on the unit, as well as a dash switch. You can cobble up a remote (typically dash mounted) switch for many others. (Not sure about the 120A Blue Sea - it may be completely closed off.)

If you have big electrical appliances, e.g. microwave, there is a small argument for a remote switch in the camper, if you have remote engine start. This is handy when you fire up the microwave, which will open, the ACR, and then decide that you want to run the engine to let the alternator help carry the load. N.B. that is carry the load, not charge the battery - you won't be running the engine long enough to really affect the charge.

Anyway, the point is that you don't really need a manual switch in addition to your ACR. It is not the same as a cutoff on the down lead from your solar.

First, some good thoughts. I've ordered 2 MRBF fuses for the battery sides. Good point that having only one on one battery bank but not the other will not isolate the banks and kill all current to that heavy cable if it rubs through somewhere and arcs against the frame! We run similar cable set ups at work on oilfield trucks so we can plug our winches in either front or back. None of these have any fuses and I've never heard of one having an issue. That being said I have too much in this truck to lose so I'm covering that base. As far as ACR, the one I have is the Blue Sea 7610, the SI is wired to the ignition side of my starter relay so it cuts out on start. I could have rigged a wire to a switch that would enable it to be opened thus a cut out. I like the idea of having the cut offs in my main electrical area and I did have the room.