Charging an EcoFlow Delta from inverter?

[kga1978]

Hi folks,

I have a 600W Samlex hooked up to my Odyssey battery 49-950 in my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Until recently, I used the inverter with my Jackery 500, which has a 100W input charge cable and my Dometic CFX35 fridge (~80W). The inverter/battery combo should be plenty powerful enough for that setup, but I recently got an EcoFlow Delta, which has a 1200W (!) input AC charger.

Unfortunately, when I try to charge that station from the inverter, it tries to pull the full 1200W, which overloads the inverter. Alternatively, I can use the car charger for the station, but then I only get 120W input. The EcoFlow also has a 400W solar input (10-65V DC 10A) which, like the car charger is an XT60 cable.

Now, I'd like to be able to charge the EcoFlow directly from the inverter using, say, 300W input. I don't seem to be able to program the station to not pull the full 1200W, so I was wondering if I could maybe go from the inverter to voltage regulator (e.g., #B08GFQZFC1 on Jeff's site..) and from there to the 400W solar input using an XT60 cable. Problem is - I don't really know what I'm doing here... Would this be possible? Advisable? Or should I just stick to the 120W car charging cable and forget about the inverter?

Cheers

 

[john61ct]

KISS

Odyssey > Ecoflow DC input

with support from the alt while driving

or from your Samlex on grid mains

Put in a coulomb counting wattmeter to track the Ah transfered

This only works if that DC input is true current limiting rather than latching or hiccup OCP

If not then you need a DCDC charger in between

or upsize your inverter to one that handles the AC fast charge

but you might not get enough current out of the Odyssey there, will depend on the relative size difference in Ah capacity

don't burn your alt!

 

[4000lbsOfGoat]

It doesn't make much sense to go from a DC source, through an AC inverter then back to DC to charge a DC battery. As @john61ct said, eliminate the inverter from the equation.

 

[kga1978]

Hey guys - thanks for chiming in - and yeah, I'd prefer to KISS... Here's the issue though - at 12V, the EcoFlow will only accept 10A, so going directly from the battery maxes out at 120W. If I up the voltage (up to 65V DC) then I can get up to 400W input - but that, of course, would require step up (inverter) and then step down (voltage regulator).

I was looking at the voltage regulators and it just seems too non-KISS for me, so I'll probably just stick with the 120W 12V charger (+ solar) for now and see where that gets me. Might be sufficient - if not, then maybe it's time to get creative...

K

 

[john61ct]

at 12V, the EcoFlow will only accept 10A

Heed my proviso about current limiting.

> If I up the voltage (up to 65V DC) then I can get up to 400W input - but that, of course, would require step up (inverter) and then step down (voltage regulator).

Could go with a DC to DC converter.

48Vdc is the standard for server / telecom data centres so a good "backbone" voltage for DC supply

often top quality units sold for pennies on the dollar on eBay.

Inverter is DC to AC which is the silly wastage step away from your target.

But yes more common, mass market so easier more familiar path.

 

[kga1978]

Thanks guys for all the advice. So taking that into consideration, here's my current thinking:

• Hook a 12V > 48V DC-DC step up voltage regulator directly to my 12V Odyssey battery via 8 gauge wire.
• I can get a 48V / 8A regulator, giving me 384 watts (max input to the EcoFlow is 400 watts). E.g., https://amzn.to/2WyKfH7.
• Install an inline 40 amp circuit breaker between the Odyssey and the voltage regulator (e.g., https://amzn.to/3BnL05k) - this will also function as a switch.
• Run an XT60 cable (12 gauge; e.g., https://amzn.to/3zsAicW) from the voltage regulator to the EcoFlow

Does this sound like a reasonable set up?

 

[john61ct]

12V > 48V DC-DC step up voltage regulator directly to my 12V Odyssey battery via 8 gauge wire.

...

a 48V / 8A regulator, giving me 384 watts (max input to the EcoFlow is 400 watts). E.g., https://amzn.to/2WyKfH7

All functions in the one device right?

Looks like the OCP is hiccup style, so if the
battery / circuitry is drawing too many amps it just shuts down then later releases.

Definitely put an ammeter in between to monitor.

What is the chemistry and Wh capacity of the target battery?

What model is the Odyssey?

 

[kga1978]

Yup, all in one device and I'll get an inline ammeter installed as well (I should have done this when I installed the inverter...).

The EcoFlow (target battery) is Lithium-ion 1260Wh, and the Odyssey is AGM #49-950 (this is my sole battery - so it's also the starter battery).

EcoFlow: https://ecoflow.com/products/ecoflow-delta-power-station
Odyssey: https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm49-h8-l5-battery-49-950/

 

[john61ct]

Well that Starter better just be used as a buffer for the actual charge source

Don't let it get drained past 50-60% too often if you want decent longevity.

A pair of Deka GCs would let you actually refill the target completely and then recharge over time, be cheaper and last longer.

 

[kga1978]

Yeah, the starter battery just act as a charge device when I'm driving the car (Jeep GC) - when the alternator isn't running, everything is being charged via solar (switching from one to the other is done manually). Thought about getting a proper setup with a deep cycle battery, but I have very limited space to work with, hence just the need to charge the EcoFlow, which is used to power everything (mainly, fridge and water pump).

 

[john61ct]

A native 48V solar controller will likely be a lot more efficient than upconverting.

I think Victrons only go that high with big amp ones

but Genasun is supposed to be OK

check also https://www.powerstream.com/48-pv-control.htm

these are cheap https://powmr.com/solar-charge-cont...uto-solar-regulator-with-lcd-display-mppt-60a

https://syonyk.blogspot.com/2018/05/whats-difference-between-150-and-600.html

Some SCs will even act as DCDC taking alt input