Cheaper lift than slee?
- Thread starter tkdtroy
- Start date
CA-RJ
Expo Approved™
I have a friend who ran Man-A-Fre spacers in the rear with cranked torsion bars with 295's. It was a temporary fix until he saved enough to get the OME kit. Why are you lifting it? What size tires are you running now and do you plan to buy new ones after the lift?
Give this thread a read. It's got some good info on building a 100 Series bit by bit. There's some info on the spacers in there as well.
Give this thread a read. It's got some good info on building a 100 Series bit by bit. There's some info on the spacers in there as well.
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rain76king
Adventurer
If every penny counts and your on a budget I would suggest leaving it where it is.
You start lifting a vehicle and changing the aerodynamics by increasing the height your going to be spending more in gas.
With gas prices forecasted to skyrocket this year, and owning a landcruiser with the aerodynamics of a brick before the lift, you may want to reconsider.
You start lifting a vehicle and changing the aerodynamics by increasing the height your going to be spending more in gas.
With gas prices forecasted to skyrocket this year, and owning a landcruiser with the aerodynamics of a brick before the lift, you may want to reconsider.
sorry for the noob question but how do you reclamp the cv boots?
and could some post a link to the correct spacers i would need for 2inches of lift. I have found many different spacers for 25-30mm of lift but most were for 80 series cruisers.
thanks again for the help!
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2000UZJ
SE Overlanding Society
80 Series 30MM Coil Spacers work. That is what I have. You can reclamp the CV's using a smooth rolled hose clamp or rebanding them with the ones that come in the Toyota OEM reboot kit.
If your not on IH8MUD, I would highly recommend joining and spending time in the 100 series section. tons of answers there. There are a ton of ways to get to a lift as some have indicated above. There are a several shock options now as well as one or two others selling diff drops. However, I would just get the Slee diff drop if you are going to get one. Some run it some dont. 2000UZJ pushes his harder without a diff drop than 90% of those running one. But, you have to make the choice.
Absoute lowest cost.... crank your t-bars and install the Man-A-Fre 30mm spacers for the 80 series. http://man-a-fre.com/pa/80seriescoilspringspacers.htm
$40 and call it a day.
for the cv band clamps: http://forum.ih8mud.com/pfran-leds/521348-100-series-cv-boot-clamps-bands-mcmaster-carr.html
The OEM's suck.
Now, with all that is above, that is the bare minimum to lift your rig. Newer shocks, springs and all that will improve ride quality over the stock ride... but, will never be as smooth or soft as to what you are on right now. It will become more truck like in feel. I have learned through a lot of trial and error that higher is not better. Through talking with other more experienced 100 owners and my own experiments I have found a couple things:
1 - you will want about 1" rake front to back (I.e. - the front needs to be lower than the back by about 1"). Some go less than this and they are ok with it. It is a personal feel and every one has different feelings on what is ok. But the way the truck was designed, you will want some rack for best handling.
2 - The highest I will go now is about 20.5" from center of hub to edge of wheel well. It just rides better to me and I have been as high as 22"....Yep I lowered my truck almost 1.5" for ride quality. But, I also have aftermarket UCA's that give me more droop and more range to lift.
3 - Lift... no matter how high you decide to go... Make sure you maintain at least 60mm of droop in the front for safe handling.
Good luck! I wish I had a cruiser when I was 16...
Absoute lowest cost.... crank your t-bars and install the Man-A-Fre 30mm spacers for the 80 series. http://man-a-fre.com/pa/80seriescoilspringspacers.htm
$40 and call it a day.
for the cv band clamps: http://forum.ih8mud.com/pfran-leds/521348-100-series-cv-boot-clamps-bands-mcmaster-carr.html
The OEM's suck.
Now, with all that is above, that is the bare minimum to lift your rig. Newer shocks, springs and all that will improve ride quality over the stock ride... but, will never be as smooth or soft as to what you are on right now. It will become more truck like in feel. I have learned through a lot of trial and error that higher is not better. Through talking with other more experienced 100 owners and my own experiments I have found a couple things:
1 - you will want about 1" rake front to back (I.e. - the front needs to be lower than the back by about 1"). Some go less than this and they are ok with it. It is a personal feel and every one has different feelings on what is ok. But the way the truck was designed, you will want some rack for best handling.
2 - The highest I will go now is about 20.5" from center of hub to edge of wheel well. It just rides better to me and I have been as high as 22"....Yep I lowered my truck almost 1.5" for ride quality. But, I also have aftermarket UCA's that give me more droop and more range to lift.
3 - Lift... no matter how high you decide to go... Make sure you maintain at least 60mm of droop in the front for safe handling.
Good luck! I wish I had a cruiser when I was 16...
2000UZJ
SE Overlanding Society
^ Great post. And yes, Sawyer is correct. I wheel/drive my truck harder than 90+% of the 100's out there. I do not have a diff drop but if it wasn't my rig I would put one on. the diff drop puts the front diff 1" lower and to me, is to much. I need that 1" especially when you can only lift these rigs 2.75" max. I'm on my skid plates alot and honestly I don't want spacers or any less clearance. To each his own. I took ownership of my cruiser when I was 16 as well, it's been a long budget build. Don't rush things, you end up spending 2X the money.
thanks for all of the help guys!!!
I have been on ih8mud and expedition portal for a few months in anticipation of getting my cruiser so now that it is mine it is time to start buying parts!!! :wings:
I have another question, what limits the uzj 100 to a maximum of 2.5 inches of lift? other independent front suspension trucks (such as the tundra) can be lifted much more
I have been on ih8mud and expedition portal for a few months in anticipation of getting my cruiser so now that it is mine it is time to start buying parts!!! :wings:
I have another question, what limits the uzj 100 to a maximum of 2.5 inches of lift? other independent front suspension trucks (such as the tundra) can be lifted much more
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2000UZJ
SE Overlanding Society
There are currently no drop brackets for the 100. The tundra uses coil overs and the 100 uses torsion bars. No room upfront for drop brackets and honestly I don't truck drop brackets. To much going on. So yes, the 100 is limited to 2.5" of lift upfront with out negative effects. go any higher and you have funky handling and torque steer under hard acceleration. And don't even mention towing a heavy load with the front maxed out.
hks3sgte
César Gómez
that should make it matter that much more!
I am surprised that with all of the 100 series out there that no one makes a drop bracket. In my neighborhood it seems like every third house has a 100 series. One family has 3 100 series!
2000UZJ
SE Overlanding Society
I think the cost would be so high nobody could afford it. Just my thoughts, but generally the 100 series crowd isn't into huge lifts, or overly complicated lift kits. The front end of the 100 is very robust and drop brackets and spacers would make it much weaker. I have jumped mine, slammed down on the bump stops going 50+MPH, crawled with it, everything you can imagine I have done to the front end and I have no issues...