Check Engine Light...again

[BRONZ]

Check Engine Light...Update Shift Solenoid A

Hey guys haven't been here in a while.

Got a question/problem.

I had the check engine light come on about two months ago. Took it to the dealer. They said it was a sensor in the transmission. They changed the trans fliud and all is well.

Now two days ago driving to work check engine light comes on. Haven't taken it in to get ot checked out but I haven't driven it other than getting home the day it came on.

What gives. Since this is my forst taco, are they sensor sensitive and its something I should get used to.

The truck runs fine nothing different both times the check engine light has come on.

 

[Martyn]

I would buy on OBD II code reader and find out what the code is that is making the check engine light come on. There are a multitude of sensors that can trigger a check engine light. Once you have the code you can find out which sensor is producing it and what the code means.

This new occurrence may be totally unrelated to the last one.

 

[4RunAmok]

Yup, I've had a CEL come on when I was out on a long trail trip from home, and it cut our trip short just to get home and pay to have them tell me it was my O2 sensor and shut it off for me.

I bought the Auterra (http://www.auterraweb.com) OBD II Dyno software and cable. Well worth it just in piece of mine alone. They have a new product called DashDyno, like ScanGauge II, but the software that goes on a laptop is far more powerful.

The CEL has come on a few times since then while on trails, but I just fire up the laptop, check to see if it is serious and if not, shut off the light (clear trouble codes) and continue my journey.

At $85 per check-out at the dealer, the unit has already saved me $255.00, it's already paid for itself.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Remember this:

Lots of people think that a code means the part is defective. It doesn't mean that at all! It is just where the problem is registering to the ECM. A Bad EGR often shows up as a O2 code. The reason is the O2 sees a mixture that it is not expecting so that is the starting point to start diagnostics.

The Dealer mechanics have become parts swappers. They see a code and they swap that part without any other testing. They don't really know anymore then a person with a level head and a manual.

Get a FSM (Factory service manual) and learn to repair it yourself. Toyota Manuals are awesome! If you can read and follow the directions and have basic tools and a Volt Ohm Meter you can take care of anything.

Here is a manual so you can see how they are written.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx

 

[J_wings24]

Factory Service manuals

I've used this multiple times, don't know if it is posted here anywhere.
Hope it helps!
clicky

:26_7_2:

 

[keepontruckin]

You need to find out what the source of the error is. Mine came on once due to a dirty MAF sensor, which got fouled by the oil on a K&N air filter.

 

[BRONZ]

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the help.

I'll let you know what I fine.

 

[J_wings24]

I've used this multiple times, don't know if it is posted here anywhere.
Hope it helps!
clicky
:mixed-smiley-030:
:26_7_2:

So I'm perusing the Toyota section this evening and i realize that the Factory service manuals are the only sticky in the Toyota section! :exclaim:
I'm a dork.... need more

(the voice of homer simpson) DOGH!

 

[taco chaser]

You can pick up a Centech code reader for around 50 to 80 dollars from Harbor Freight if I remember correctly, it reads only generic codes but it comes with a code book, same diagnosis different numbers than manufacturer.

 

[Cackalak Han]

The few times I have gotten a CEL, I just head over to Checker's or Autozone for a free scan. But it would be nice to have one of your own.

And just to echo what Grim Reaper said, make sure to test and overlook all of the surrounding "defective" part. On my old Jeep, I kept getting an EVAP system failure and the dealership wanted to change out the whole system = $$$$. So I looked under there the next day and come to find out, it was a rubber connecter on a vacuum line that had cracked. Replaced with a new one ($2) and I was good to go.

 

[Clutch]

Sometimes the sensor in the air intake needs cleaned. Pull it, clean it, after a few start cycles the check light should go back off. That is, if that is the problem.

That is if you run a "oiled" air filter. I have since switched back to the stock "dry" air filters.

 

[BRONZ]

Ok This is what they told me.

Shifter Solenoid A = $850. 5 hrs labor, plus a $250 part.

Im lucky it was under warranty.