Cherokee SYE Installation

madizell

Explorer
For those who have installed an SYE, such as the Advance Adapters unit for the NP231, would you rate the installation as something best left to professionals, doable but requiring some skills in transmission overhaul, or relatively straight forward for those not mechanically challenged. I have not done one, and can't tell by looking at the parts whether the entire T-case needs to be stipped and rebuilt, or if the kit installs without breaking into the T-case inners.

A local SAR posse member is contemplating the need for the SYE on his mid 90's Cherokee, now that he has installed the RE 3.5 inch lift, to eliminate a bit of growl from the stock slip joint. The stock shaft was not changed or replaced with the installation of the lift kit, and I believe it is now running a bit far out on the slip range, which simply adds to the wobble in the joint. I would recommend also changing the drive shaft to the double-cardon style at the same time. Would you concur?

If the SYE is installed with the DC-style shaft, can we eliminate the 3/4 inch T-case drop down and rear axle shims installed by the shop to combat the growl. I am thinking we can, but Cherokee's are not a large part of my repertoire.
 

motomech

Adventurer
Yup, your gonna have to get into the t-case all the way.
A t-case is much simpler than a transmission.Tons of resources on the net for the installation.

If you don't feel like doing it yourself, and want to save some cash you could pull the t-case and send it to a shop and then reinstall it yourself.

The drive shaft ...Yes you will need a CV type shaft with the slip joint built in.

You can eliminate the 3/4 inch T-case drop down but i would keep the axle shims.
 

madizell

Explorer
I have worked on gear drive T-cases such as Dana 300 and Dana 18, but never one with planetary gears and chains. Might be a new experience if it does not require lunar lander tools and 8-ton presses.
 

motomech

Adventurer
1 1/8 inch socket
Torque wrench capable of 150lbs
Inner and outer Heavy Duty snap ring pliers
Harmonic balancer puller or
Gear Puller

This is about the most uncommon tools needed the rest is pretty common
And some jack stands and a good floor jack.
 
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IH8RDS

Explorer
madizell,

easy peasy. I never worked on a transfer case before and I did mine in under 3 hours. Without snap ring pliers. You really need pliers though.

I installed the PORC SYE and used an XJ front DS in the rear. Here is a good install video I watched before I did mine.

http://www.crgrissom.com/jeep/SYE.wmv
 

bat

Explorer
I would say if it is a 95 cherokee the growl is may not be because of the from driveline with a 3.5'' RE lift. Since you have the trans drop and shim it should not do that with that size of a lift.
 
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ExpoMike

Well-known member
IH8RDS said:
madizell,

easy peasy. I never worked on a transfer case before and I did mine in under 3 hours. Without snap ring pliers. You really need pliers though.

I installed the PORC SYE and used an XJ front DS in the rear. Here is a good install video I watched before I did mine.

http://www.crgrissom.com/jeep/SYE.wmv

100% agree. I used the same video to give me an idea of what to do. I left the case in the XJ and think we had it done in about 2 hours. Biggest PITA was getting all the old gasket sealant off. Good snap ring pliers really makes the job easy.

BTW, take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain it. If for some reason you can't get it out, at least you are not dead in the water having drained the case.
 

madizell

Explorer
Thanks for the many replies. Also found some photo write-ups on the web, and all sound about the same as far as process. Have all the tools mentioned, so no biggie.
 

BBCchris

Observer
I like to put em on the bench when I do them, but it can be done in the Jeep. Like someone else said the hardest part is cleaning off all the old sealant. Give it a wack and if you need any help just PM or post and questions! :)
 

StumpXJ

SE Expedition Society
This is a piece of cake as others have mentioned. Two things, you DONT have to pull the Transfer case out as the instructions reccomend, and you DONT have to remove the front yoke or driveshaft. If you take one extra snap ring off of the lower shaft, the lower shaft gear will slide off along with the chain and the upper shaft (the one you are replacing). Makes the job that much easier, you never touch the front of the T-case, or the drive shaft. Make sure you seal it all up properly, they tend to leak pretty easily after the SYE install.

Also, make sure your external snap ring pliers are beefy, and open pretty wide, it will make your life easier.

~James

Here is a good article that shows how you dont have to touch the front yoke or driveshaft, and the inside of a NP242, which are very similar.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoChainChange.htm
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Something that hasn't been mentioned here that I learned the hard way is crucial. Your choice of sealant on putting it back together. I used an engine case sealant (ala ACVW & Sube) on the 241 in the Sub. Bad choice, I got to pull it again 875 miles from home and re-seal it before going to my Grandfather's Wake.

If I were King I would make a law requiring the use of the "Right Stuff" for this job.
HTH
 

JeepN95YJ

Adventurer
bat said:
I would say if it is a 95 cherokee the growl is may not be because of the from driveline with a 3.5'' RE lift. Since you have the trans drop and shim it should not do that with that size of a lift.

My experience with XJs is that what you say is correct. Sometimes. And sometimes it is not. I've built them with small lifts that have needed a trans drop and some have not. Some have needed a SYE and some have not. I could take a known good driveline from an identical XJ and it would vibrate/growl and vice-versa I could put the growling DS into one without issues and be fine. I have no idea what the determining factors were in these builds.
 

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