Chevy Silverado Dirtymax Build

[OR2BAJA]

I am just messin with ya, the truck is looking good and is getting some cool parts. Looking forward to seeing what you in the suspension department. Look at ridgid industries 2500 they built. They called it ridgid1. There are some good ideas on it. Not many built 2500's with proper suspension.

 

[uscg2008]

I am just messin with ya, the truck is looking good and is getting some cool parts. Looking forward to seeing what you in the suspension department. Look at ridgid industries 2500 they built. They called it ridgid1. There are some good ideas on it. Not many built 2500's with proper suspension.

Do you have a link to the build?

Right now I have the torsion bars cranked a bit to level out the truck and bilstein 5100s. Eventually down the road will the kings, some brand of unibal upper control arms and a 2" Deaver mini pack.

 

[thethePete]

Look on Dezertrangers.com, there are a lot of 2500 builds on there and those guys only do suspension that will be beaten on. Problem is, most people that lift 2500s are just going for a bro truck. So lift blocks are all that are required to make a tall truck. They do have tougher lift springs available. Deaver is a good source for a lift with an appropriate spring rate and no blocks or spacers. IMO, ideally, you'll have no block and just springs that give you the height you want. You may also want to strongly consider a track bar for this thing. The torque diesels produce doesn't play well with lifts or longer springs. It's cheap insurance.

 

[uscg2008]

Thanks for the info man. I'm def not doing anything like a bro would. I've been around Chevys and Toyotas long enough to know what to do and how to do it the right way. No blocks for this guy :smiley_drive: I've been on DR for a while too I just never post on there, but thanks for reminding me about it I'll start giving that a look again.

 

[bknudtsen]

If you find yourself in the Seattle area, I have a brand new 2" Deaver leaf pack set that I won't be using.

 

[uscg2008]

I'll let ya know

 

[OR2BAJA]

Camburg, full deavers and a clean tube bumper with lights and you have a killer baja starter kit. Nothing like going the long way to a taco shop in Baja and being ready for it. One reccomendation is to either buy if available or have a fabricated spindle made. There is something about being stranded because of some cast POS. I have seen them fail and they were not beat on.

 

[uscg2008]

Installed my exhaust today. Went together pretty smooth after getting it all soft mounted and trimmed down to size. Just used a couple of jack stands to hold it in place since I was working by myself.

 

[uscg2008]

Picked up some flood lights to use as fogs for my bday

Haven't had a chance to install them yet, been having the house painted the last could days
Before

After

 

[Bushcoat]

Cool! I don't like looking at your truck, makes me want to take my topper off hahaha.

I'm likely going to get the camburg arms and tie rods for mine, I'd like to find out if cranking the bars is necessary for the arms to properly operate. Don't want to put them on, to find out that the camber is too positive if the bars are not turned up.

 

[OffGridCamper]

Good lookin' truck! Ill say stay away from drilled rotors, I've seen horrific results from them.

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[uscg2008]

Cool! I don't like looking at your truck, makes me want to take my topper off hahaha.

I'm likely going to get the camburg arms and tie rods for mine, I'd like to find out if cranking the bars is necessary for the arms to properly operate. Don't want to put them on, to find out that the camber is too positive if the bars are not turned up.

I wouldn't think that it would matter too much with minimal cranking of the bars. Either way aftermarket UCAs with be better for alignment as well as travel and strength.

Good lookin' truck! Ill say stay away from drilled rotors, I've seen horrific results from them.

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Thanks bud! :sombrero:. I had drilled and slotted rotors on my Tacoma and never had any problems. The only problems I have heard of is when people put them on the wrong side not realizing that they are side specific, Or when they do not properly break them in.

 

[OffGridCamper]

Thanks bud! :sombrero:. I had drilled and slotted rotors on my Tacoma and never had any problems. The only problems I have heard of is when people put them on the wrong side not realizing that they are side specific, Or when they do not properly break them in.

Good deal, as long as you're comfortable with them on that heavy of a truck then I say go for it. I though about putting a set on my 07 Ram, but talking to local shops and reading up on them it turned out to not be a good idea (for me).

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[thethePete]

Yeah, if you already have them, I suppose run them; but this truck is a completely different game than the Tacoma.

HD rotors are designed differently and need to be able to hold a LOT more heat than light truck and car rotors. I've seen first hand how quickly drilled/slotted rotors heat crack, and wreck the pads as well because they can't keep enough heat out of the pads. I will also encourage you to look at sticking with plain rotors. OEM are best, they'll usually handle a few sets of pads, aftermarket rotors will heatcrack and warp a lot quicker than OEM. usually OE has thicker rotors and better steel.

 

[uscg2008]

Good deal, as long as you're comfortable with them on that heavy of a truck then I say go for it. I though about putting a set on my 07 Ram, but talking to local shops and reading up on them it turned out to not be a good idea (for me).

Sent From 1 of Many Samsung Devices

Yeah, if you already have them, I suppose run them; but this truck is a completely different game than the Tacoma.

HD rotors are designed differently and need to be able to hold a LOT more heat than light truck and car rotors. I've seen first hand how quickly drilled/slotted rotors heat crack, and wreck the pads as well because they can't keep enough heat out of the pads. I will also encourage you to look at sticking with plain rotors. OEM are best, they'll usually handle a few sets of pads, aftermarket rotors will heatcrack and warp a lot quicker than OEM. usually OE has thicker rotors and better steel.

Thanks for all the good info guys. At this point I don't think I will need new rotors so I will just be doing a pad upgrade and stick with ththe stock rotors.