Clever way to get a PL-259 connector through the roof?

[jeegro]

I've decided on a setup. Larsen NMO27 for CB, Larsen NMO-2/70SH for 2m. 3/4" Z-bracket bolted to the side of Front Runner roof rack.

I really don't want to bother with soldering PL-259 plugs. I don't know how and I don't have the tools. If I did, it would be easy enough to get a standard cable gland and drill the roof. Are there are clever cable glands that perhaps clamp around the cable (i.e. 2 semi-circles) so that I don't have to feed the connector through the gland? I've looked on Mcmaster and am coming up dry.

Yes I know it would be simpler to just drill the roof for an nmo mount, but the rack really covers up any possible usable spot so this is the best compromise I can find.

Thanks

 

[jeegro]

This is what I have in mind for the location. The two silver brackets. Does anyone see a problem with it?

It will have 4 bolts total: 2 on the underside (vertical), and 2 on the side (horizontal). So it should be only limited by the strength of the NMO mount.

 

[k9lestat]

could you run the cable through the back door seam where the black molding runs around the vehicle. you might could cheat enough space in there that would pinch the cable too terribly bad.

 

[sonoronos]

I've decided on a setup. Larsen NMO27 for CB, Larsen NMO-2/70SH for 2m. 3/4" Z-bracket bolted to the side of Front Runner roof rack.

I really don't want to bother with soldering PL-259 plugs. I don't know how and I don't have the tools. If I did, it would be easy enough to get a standard cable gland and drill the roof. Are there are clever cable glands that perhaps clamp around the cable (i.e. 2 semi-circles) so that I don't have to feed the connector through the gland? I've looked on Mcmaster and am coming up dry.

Yes I know it would be simpler to just drill the roof for an nmo mount, but the rack really covers up any possible usable spot so this is the best compromise I can find.

There is definitely no use in drilling a hole anywhere in your truck for this purpose! :Wow1: I would recommend some threaded PL259's and just solder your own before you did that.

Are there no holes in your vehicle that you can use to feed a PL259 through?

 

[jeegro]

could you run the cable through the back door seam where the black molding runs around the vehicle. you might could cheat enough space in there that would pinch the cable too terribly bad.

Not a fan of leaving cables in unsecured places. They'll get pinched, wear, and its not very clean

There is definitely no use in drilling a hole anywhere in your truck for this purpose! :Wow1: I would recommend some threaded PL259's and just solder your own before you did that.

Are there no holes in your vehicle that you can use to feed a PL259 through?

Not exactly sure what alternative you are proposing? Drilling holes is not a big deal. My rig is like swiss cheese. I already have 2 glands on the roof for solar and a trailer cable. And yes, I actually have a couple holes that I plugged after removing the roof rails. However, the hole isn't the issue, it's sealing the hole with a pre-terminated cable

Depends what size coax you choose, its possible sometimes to route thru a gap between door & weatherstrip. But, You might be stuck with using cable clam and drill sheetmetal 20mm bigazz hole.

As aside, radios especially Ham Bands implies Geekiness what embraces understanding and desire to at least prepare and solder connections ?

Yeah ok you got me there... I'm just a little exhausted from modifying my vehicle and spending hundreds of dollars on tools I'll use once. I want to hit the road more often This guy here http://www.k0bg.com/coax.html#crimp says crimping is a good way to go. I think I'll go for that and use a standard multi-cord grip for both antennas. I don't have 110v access near my rig which I would need to solder, so that's part of my reservation. I like crimping.

Any comment on antenna placement?

 

[jeegro]

I picked up Larsen NMO mounts w/ 17ft cable (non-terminated), and the following items:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQPHIW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3PDPYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBODKDJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Im wary of cheap crimpers so I hope it works ok. I'll try and see if I can solder the tip as well for good measure. I think all I have is an $8 20w pen though

 

[pugslyyy]

I've decided on a setup. Larsen NMO27 for CB, Larsen NMO-2/70SH for 2m. 3/4" Z-bracket bolted to the side of Front Runner roof rack.

I really don't want to bother with soldering PL-259 plugs. I don't know how and I don't have the tools. If I did, it would be easy enough to get a standard cable gland and drill the roof. Are there are clever cable glands that perhaps clamp around the cable (i.e. 2 semi-circles) so that I don't have to feed the connector through the gland? I've looked on Mcmaster and am coming up dry.

Yes I know it would be simpler to just drill the roof for an nmo mount, but the rack really covers up any possible usable spot so this is the best compromise I can find.

Thanks

A standard cable gland has a slit in it that you use to put the cable through on the side. I find them very easy to use/reuse and makes changing a cable easy. I usually put a little sealant on the top, just to be sure - but it comes off easy with a razorblade.

 

[XJSuperman]

On my xj I ran my cable though a hole I drilled, siliconed the hole and used a crimp style pl259. I was a little unsure at the fi me but my cb setup works great and I have no problems.

 

[comptiger5000]

I usually solder my PL259s. If you've got a power inverter in your rig or even a portable one, that'll be good enough as a power source. I've done it with a 50w iron with no issues.

 

[BigJimCruising]

How about getting an NMO mount without coax. Run the coax through the roof then solder it on the NMO mount. You can buy coax with a pl259 on one end and nothing on the other end. If you don't know how to solder find a local HAM club and ask for help. Someone with the tools will no doubt offer to help you out, probably that evening in the parking lot! lol If all else fails and you happen to be driving through Orange County I could do it for you, either end.

 

[jeegro]

First part done. I haven't crimped/soldered the pl-259's on yet, need to read up on that.

Used a simple 2-cable gland from Mcmaster, along with Larsen non-terminated NMO mounts.

 

[Comanche Scott]

What about stopping by Ham Radio Outlet in San Diego, and see if they can do it for you?
They are normally pretty reasonably priced for service work.
http://www.hamradio.com/locations.cfm?storeid=4

Otherwise you might try a CB shop at a local truck stop.

Either place could probably tune your rig as well.

 

[jeegro]

What about stopping by Ham Radio Outlet in San Diego, and see if they can do it for you?
They are normally pretty reasonably priced for service work.
http://www.hamradio.com/locations.cfm?storeid=4

Otherwise you might try a CB shop at a local truck stop.

Either place could probably tune your rig as well.

That's a good tip, thanks. I actually purchased the Larsen antenna from them. On the other hand, crimping and soldering the tip does not look like rocket science. I make my own 2/0 gauge battery cables with a hydraulic crimper and it's a cakewalk... I dunno I guess it's something about the sensitivity of antennas and coax that weirds me out.

 

[comptiger5000]

Soldering PL259s is pretty easy. Probably harder to screw up soldering one than crimping one.

 

[k9lestat]

you could also find the local motorola commercial shop they can do it. i dont think it would be much if anything.