cold weather biodiesel system?

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
So I started fiddling with bio-diesel for my dodge.

I am doing some research into some cold weather bio-diesel fuel modifications but I am wondering if a mechanical system might be an easier way to deal with the cold weather bio-diesel jelling problem.

Basic idea. To stop the bio-diesel from jelling, in general it needs to be kept above 40F depending on what oil you use to make it. So the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, injection pump, and injection lines/injectors need to be kept above 40F no matter what the outside temperature. I think this can be done with a hybrid of a WVO fuel system. A coolant loop can be integrated into the fuel tank easy enough. The fuel lines, both the supply and return could be heated with a tube in hose type system. The fuel filter can be heated with a heater line wrap. It gets a little more complicated to heat the injector pump, injector lines, and injectors. In general, if the coolant in the engine was heated the injector pump may become warm enough, but I don't know if I would count on that. I think circulating heated fuel through the injector pump through the existing supply and return lines may work pretty well. The factory fuel pump on my dodge is mechanical however. Perhaps a secondary electric fuel pump could be used? Does anyone know if you can pump through the factory mechanical pump? Or maybe it would be easier to just branch the fuel line near the fuel filter with some one way valves in order to add in an electric pump. The injectors and lines might be able to be heated by heating the engine block coolant, but again, I don't know if I would count on that. I think wrapping the injector lines in electric heat lines would be a good option. They could be used just prior to starting in order to make the lines hot enough.

Everything above is fairly proven and should work well to keep the fuel over 40-60F even in really cold weather. Once the engine was running the engine coolant would circulate through all these features enough to keep the fuel plenty hot to use in the motor. There might even be a little too much heat!

The big questions are....

-What to use to heat and circulate the coolant?

When AC power is available I would think that it would be very simple to use the block heater to heat the coolant. Adding a small AC electric pump to circulate the coolant through the system would be fairly easy. A thermometer might need to be added to keep everything from getting too hot. This system could be used from a COLD state. The truck could be below 40F and once plugged in the coolant would heat and circulate warming the engine and fuel to above 40F causing a much easier start, and a reliable start on bio-diesel I hope.

What about when AC power isn't available? I have been looking at the Espar diesel fired coolant heaters. It would seem that it would be fairly easy to plumb one into the system that I mentioned. They have a coolant circulation pump that is built into some models too. I haven't been able to find the exact control system with the temperatures I need. The simplest version of the Espar system just has an on/off switch in the cab, when the coolant reaches like 185 degrees it shuts the heater off, but keeps circulating the coolant until it gets down to 175 degrees and then fires the heater back up. The only real downside to this system is that the circulation pump runs off of your 12V battery and there is no way to top it off. From what I was able to find the Espar draws 4 amps on hi and 2 amps on low. While not a TON of power, it is a decent amount that could add up over time to kill the battery. It should work just fine...its just the operational duration that might come to be a factor. The other downside is that this 'independent' system would not be able to start cold since the fuel would be gelled and not use-able in the Espar.

Anyone have any other ideas?
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Talking with out local bio diesel guys with what they have experienced up here in the Sierra it appears that Bio-Diesel is good to go down to 16˚F. I spoke with a local who runs bio diesel in his Dodge and he confirmed this.

There appears to be a big difference between Bio-Diesel and WVO in many respects. WVO is going to gel at a much higher temperature and become solid at it approaches freezing.

There are some great off the shelf systems for running cold weather diesels http://www.arctic-fox.com/.

I'm not a big fan of generators, but for cold remote diesel starting, pre heating, and battery charging, they are the obvious answer. I need to spend more time with it, but a National Luna Power Pack, group 31 battery, and solar panel may take care of the needs as well.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Was this store bought diesel or home made stuff? I have heard of bio-diesel going to just about freezing, but below that it gets questionable.

If my truck was a little bigger I might consider one of the new small APU systems for Semi trucks that are out there now. There are some smaller 1cyl liquid cooled units out there now that are pretty small. They can generate not only hot water but DC and AC power as well.

Thank you for the link for the arctic fox stuff. They have some neat stuff that I might be able to use!

I'm thinking one of those large diehard platinum/odyssey batteries might be enough power for most uses. If I could get the Espar to operate on a lower temperature it might work just fine. I would think that about 70F would be more than enough to keep everything moving without using too much energy.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
A couple of small things I've done to my Ford F250.

I installed a Marine grade socket in the driver side front fender. The socket connects to the block heater. I also wired in a 6 amp battery charger to the socket, so that when I'm pre heating the engine I'm charging the battery system. Of course this only works if you have 110 volts.

The other thing that Fords have is a 12 volt fuel heating element in the fuel filter/separator housing. It kicks in when the fuel temp drops below 47˚F I believe. I read something about Dodge having an air intake warmer??
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
My dodge doesn't have glow plugs, but heats the intake air instead. Its a direct injection engine so it seems always to start. There is also a fuel filter heater on the engine that heats the fuel once its 40F or below I think. My main concern is the fuel tank and fuel lines.

I may borrow your idea for the block heater and charging plug :)

I was thinking a radiant floor circulation pump could work really well for a coolant pump since they are temp rated for antifreeze. This would work really well for when you where plugged into AC power.

In general, even beyond the bio-diesel aspect, it would be nice to be able to have a warm truck to start easier all the time.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The bio-diesel was professionally made by Bentley fuels in Carson City. I have a "loose " understanding of bio-diesel. I believe is it's oils treated with lye to remove the long chain esters, and then heated to separate the oil from the water. Dieselcruiserhead is the expert.

The cloud point will vary depending on what the biodiesel is made from. Canola oil bio-diesel will start to cloud at 14'F where as animal based bio diesel will cloud at 60'F.

In the summer they run 95% bio 5% regular diesel, and then the dilution changes as the temperatures drop. I think I've seen it 20% bio 80% regular at times. It just becomes a question of how bio is your diesel.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I'll take some pictures of the socket set up for the heater and charger in the morning and post them up for you. So far the system has been working very well. I have it on a timer so it gets 2 or 3 hours of pre heating, works like a charm even though the night time temperatures have been going as low as -14'F
 

Plantdriver

New member
Cold Weather Biodiesel Use

Almost everything I sell (www.PlantDrive.com) can be used to de-gell biodiesel in cold weather. We sell the Artic Fox HotFox that can be installed in a fuel tank (and plumbed with coolant) in lengths from 8" to 29", and 12V and 120V heating pads that can be installed on fuel tanks, fuel filters and on the oil pan, to act like a block heater. We have 3 coolant-heated fuel filters, and stainless steel flat-plate heat exchangers.

I've sold a lot of our $100 12V Vegtherm inline fuel heater to a green utility company in the midwest who run B99 all year, and were having gelling problems come fall - they've been using the Vegtherm installed just before their stock fuel filter, and turning them on a bit before starting, and getting liquid biodiesel in the fuel filter that way (they also have block heaters and plug them in overnight.)

I sell a 12V coolant circulation pump that I think of as a poor man's Espar or Webasto coolant circulation system - use it with a block heater or a 120V pad heater on the oil pan, and a HotFox in the tank, and you'll have de-gelled biodiesel in the tank and de-gelled biodiesel in the IP and with a Vegtherm installed before the stock fuel filter, you'll be able to start and run.

And another alternative to an Espar or Webasto if you're away from 120V power is to carry one of the little Honda or Yamaha generators, and plug in the 120V pad heater we sell, which you've installed on your fuel tank and your oil pan. I think Camping Lab had a special on them recently, maybe still does?

And of course you can winterize B99 biodiesel by adding some diesel or kerosene.

Craig Reece
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Almost everything I sell (www.PlantDrive.com) can be used to de-gell biodiesel in cold weather. We sell the Artic Fox HotFox that can be installed in a fuel tank (and plumbed with coolant) in lengths from 8" to 29", and 12V and 120V heating pads that can be installed on fuel tanks, fuel filters and on the oil pan, to act like a block heater. We have 3 coolant-heated fuel filters, and stainless steel flat-plate heat exchangers.

I've sold a lot of our $100 12V Vegtherm inline fuel heater to a green utility company in the midwest who run B99 all year, and were having gelling problems come fall - they've been using the Vegtherm installed just before their stock fuel filter, and turning them on a bit before starting, and getting liquid biodiesel in the fuel filter that way (they also have block heaters and plug them in overnight.)

I sell a 12V coolant circulation pump that I think of as a poor man's Espar or Webasto coolant circulation system - use it with a block heater or a 120V pad heater on the oil pan, and a HotFox in the tank, and you'll have de-gelled biodiesel in the tank and de-gelled biodiesel in the IP and with a Vegtherm installed before the stock fuel filter, you'll be able to start and run.

And another alternative to an Espar or Webasto if you're away from 120V power is to carry one of the little Honda or Yamaha generators, and plug in the 120V pad heater we sell, which you've installed on your fuel tank and your oil pan. I think Camping Lab had a special on them recently, maybe still does?

And of course you can winterize B99 biodiesel by adding some diesel or kerosene.

Craig Reece

Craig

Welcome to the forum.

If I'd been thinking I would have mentioned your company as well. Craig has been wonderful to work with, and you can tell from his site he really knows his stuff. If you're looking for great products, a huge knowledgably base, and excellent customer service Craig's your man.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The pictures show the block heater/battery charger I use on my Ford.

I have a small 15 amp digital timer that I use in a GFI outlet in the garage. I use a 16 gauge 20' electrical cord that goes to a Marine grade socket.

DSCF0001.jpg


I put the socket in the plastic spoiler below the fender. I wasn't 100% certain about this installation and didn't want to use a hole saw in the chrome bumper if I decided later I didn't like it's location or the set up didn't work.

DSCF0002-1.jpg


DSCF0003-3.jpg


Connected up the factory block heater and a 6 amp smart battery charger to the socket.

DSCF0004-1.jpg


Even though the engine compartment on this truck is huge, I was pressed for space to fit the charger. After lots of head scratching I ended up mounting it on the battery case, and wiring it to the battery.

DSCF0005-1.jpg


The small gauge is a Battery Bug, it's a cool product, tells you the battery or alternator voltage, % life remaining in your battery, and has alarms for over charge and under charge. It also shows starting performance and cold crank health.

Of course we stock all the items, marine socket, smart battery charger (the one in the picture is from some old stock, we have since changed brands), and the Battery Bug.
 

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