Condensation in campers and how to avoid it!

Thanks for the discussion, that is what my instincts told me. For winter camper applications, raising the interior temp also raises the amount of moisture suspended in the air, which encourages condensation at those points where cold is transmitted through from outside, ie, widows and doors. Frequent air exchange with dry outside air is the way forward but one must address the attendant need to heat that air. It brings me back to considering an HRV setup…

Skip the HRV and look at the larger MVHR that have seperate filters for cold and warm air.

 
I did this but with a Propex heater. The best way to destroy a diesel furnace is not running the combustion chamber hot.

Bringing in cold air through ducts (not a window/vent) = more condensation problems to solve.
That's why I was thinking 2 units. The one heating outside air would be run full blast only for a minimum of 20 minutes before shut off. It will have gated ducting into a drying room and cabin.
 
That's why I was thinking 2 units. The one heating outside air would be run full blast only for a minimum of 20 minutes before shut off. It will have gated ducting into a drying room and cabin.

Look for heaters that modulate to reduce start/stops.
 
Look for heaters that modulate to reduce start/stops.
That sounds like a good idea. I already have a couple chinese models that I picked up a while back for the project. On the one pulling outside air for the drying room, I was thinking that I'd put the controller outside of the room. It would run more like an on off switch. Definitely an experiment.
 
I typically run 10% kerosene in our Webasto, primarily to reduce the chances of gelling during cold mornings.
When choosing a diesel heater, look closely at the MINIMUM heat output it can modulate down to. It is a mistake to buy one that has too much capacity for the requirement.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

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