Connectors and crimpers

Photobug

Well-known member
Might want to get one of these with all the different dies. Works well and the guy has a ton of great info on his site.


I had purchased this crimper based on his suggestion a few years back. But according to his website he no longer endorses this model or at least has it listed as a subpar crimper.

https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-CP-3...t=&hvlocphy=9029376&hvtargid=pla-568313296030

I own a few dies for I and it works wonders in my needs for marine heat shrink crimping.

I would like to upgrade my crimping ability to cover all needs.

Heavy gauge battery cables
Anderson Powerpoles
Delphi or Deutsch
MC4

Do I need a ratcheting crimper for the likes of MC4 connectors or Delphi/WeatherPack connectors?
Would a hammer crimper work for Anderson and Battery Cables?

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer...ammer+crimper&qid=1561039781&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 

Photobug

Well-known member
That is correct. Depending on how much heat, flux used and how much solder applied, solder can flow up the wire past your strip gap form the contact into the insulation. Sometimes its not an issue if the wire has some strain relief and the the back of the wire isn't being subject to any loads, stress or bending. And as for reliability, most of the time its not a thing where you'd see failure in 6mo to 2 years, but in like 5-10 years.

Thanks for the info. I rewired a sailboat a few years ago. It's an educational process. You get to see how all the shoddy work of the previous owners held up over the years and why doing it right is important for the long haul.
 

PSea

Active member
"But according to his website he no longer endorses this model or at least has it listed as a subpar crimper."

Mind providing a link? I think this one is a relatively new offering designed by mainesail. I have all the dies as well.

Here's what it says on his site:

"NEW PRODUCT - After nearly three years of testing, 74 tools in total, both domestic & imported, CMI has finally developed an excellent quality, reasonably priced, controlled cycle ratcheting double-crimp frame with multiple modular die sets offered. The dies in this tool are as close to the AMP or Molex level tools as you'll find without jumping up $200.00 in price. Even at this price this tool beats tools costing 10X as much in crimp pull testing."
 

shade

Well-known member
I prefer a hydraulic crimper for heavy gauge battery terminals. If you shop around, they don't cost much more than a hammer crimper, and I like the results better.

https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK...ulic&qid=1561040872&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3

Add one of those to the Modular Crimp Tool and whatever dies you need (if that's a good one), and I think you're set for most things.

Edit: And by most things, I mean the kind of projects we're discussing. I have a friend that installs cell tower sites. He may have a few more crimpers than most people. : )
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Maine Sail is Da Man for noobs figuring this stuff out

Great references, whole site worth digging through for electrickery topics




For the top notch crimpers, a compatible die can cost hundreds.

For common light terminals like APP or weatherpack cheaper to buy the whole crimper spec'd for that fitting and size range.

Sometimes a cheaper clone is fine for low volume use, e.g. Powerwerx for APP I think only $50 or so.

Here's a cheap APP die if you have a frame it fits https://www.ebay.com/itm/Die-Set-Fo...er-Pole-Type-Similar-Connectors-/111197590761

Even the top crimpers worth thousands new can be found for cheap on eBay, just make sure to test within a few weeks to you can return it if it's NG.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Do I need a ratcheting crimper for the likes of MC4 connectors or Delphi/WeatherPack connectors?
You don't need a ratcheting crimper for Delphi/Weatherpack/Metripack but you do need a crimper with the correct die or jaw shape. You can use Molex open barrel 'F' dies for the conductor ears but getting the insulation ears crimped requires a round die.



523067

523066
Just my $0.02, but if you're planning to do significant numbers of Delphi (or the similar style sealed Sumitomo, Yazaki, Tyco) get the linked tool earlier in the thread, usually about $25.

523068

Would a hammer crimper work for Anderson and Battery Cables?

Hammer can work alright for battery lugs (not my preferred way but IMO better than soldering). On the larger SB type Andersen I've only used crimpers. My concern with a hammer crimper is the shape might distort the terminal and it won't insert into the connector housing.
 

shade

Well-known member
Maine Sail is Da Man for noobs figuring this stuff out

Great references, whole site worth digging through for electrickery topics




For the top notch crimpers, a compatible die can cost hundreds.

For common light terminals like APP or weatherpack cheaper to buy the whole crimper spec'd for that fitting and size range.

Sometimes a cheaper clone is fine for low volume use, e.g. Powerwerx for APP I think only $50 or so.

Here's a cheap APP die if you have a frame it fits https://www.ebay.com/itm/Die-Set-Fo...er-Pole-Type-Similar-Connectors-/111197590761

Even the top crimpers worth thousands new can be found for cheap on eBay, just make sure to test within a few weeks to you can return it if it's NG.
I'm looking through the site now. Great information.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I prefer a hydraulic crimper for heavy gauge battery terminals. If you shop around, they don't cost much more than a hammer crimper, and I like the results better.
As posted in the How-To Marine link, hydraulic has a couple of gotchas and I do not generally recommend them. The problem is the dies that come with them are junk, incorrectly sized, poor quality. It's not the hydraulic part, making it easier on your arms is fine. I bought the FTZ manual crimpers personally and can confirm they are practically indistinguishable from AMP other than being made overseas. I wouldn't hesitate to use them in a production setting, either.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
The cheap hydraulics like sold at HF and NT are crap.

Might last a few dozen crimps, but often leak just sitting there.

The dies are falsely marked and always metric, sometimes "close enough" for an AWG nearby, usually not.

Spent many hours over the years trying to find actual AWG dies that fit their frames no go, Chinese sellers have all flat out lied.

Same with Maine Sail, at a much higher level


_
Note that you don't have to own the proper tool, plenty of shops will let you use / borrow them, maybe can be rented, call around, hire a pro whatever.

http://genuinedealz.com charges $1 per crimp on top of their very reasonable per-foot wire and terminal costs, top notch professionals from start to finish.

Just measure twice, use a thick rope or tubing to follow the precise path the wire will take.
 
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PSea

Active member
I'm planning on getting one of the Sterling chargers he recommends. Haven't found anything else that matches their custom charging profiles.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
I'm planning on getting one of the Sterling chargers he recommends. Haven't found anything else that matches their custom charging profiles.
ProMariner Pronautic P is the same as his ProCharge Ultra.

Big Magnum, Victron, Mastervolt inverter/chargers.

__
For DCDC also checkout

KISAE ABSO
Enerdrive ePOWER
 

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