Connectors for interior systems

Fenderfour

Active member
I'm starting to plan my house electrical. Thinking about things like lights, fans, etc... I would like each source of draw to have a removable connector between it and the main wiring run installed in the camper wall. I'm trying to figure out the best connector system to go with. I think there is probably a better system than the old school crimp-on spade or bullet connectors I can get at o'reilly.

Cars use Molex connectors, folks building campers online like to use wago. I've also seen deutsch, and there is a ton of various pinned connectors available on Amazon.

I am aware of voltage and current specs on connectors and plan to use the "right" connector for the load.

What have you used? what did you like?
 

plh

Explorer
A lot of automobile spec Molex type connectors have a very short remove & replace connection life. Like 10 cycles, so it really depends on how you plan the usage.
 

Fenderfour

Active member
Im working on my truck and once again reminded auto spec electrical connectors are rated about ten -10- disconnects. Of the 4 Ive handled in the last 72 hours 1 broke, and its likely none were disconnected before. 19 years in service still takes a toll. I no longer trust them and expect them to break every time.

Crimp is still auto and military standard, tho, which is different than what style of plastic pin and socket holders are used. Keep that in mind. Solder heat tempers copper, making it brittle, and in the life of equipment that moves overland, wiring that breaks while in motion is not tolerated.

The miltary crimps, and uses expensive connectors rated in the hundreds of disconnects to keep equipment in service up to 25 years or longer. They also spec water tite immersion proof, nice to have for river crossings but a high requirement for us. And their way of doing things isnt cheap.

Best compromise I see is Wago lever connectors. They crimp the wire, they can be easily dissasembled, with watertight boxes they are immersion proof, and using tinned multistrand wire they wont develop voltage drop as they are much less prone to corrosion. This isnt as pronounced on the 110v shore side, the use of Wago connectors still keeps prices down with serviceable lines easily repaired.

Electric and water are regulated to not be run inside camper walls. What appears to be an annoyance is actually a blessing since diagnosis, maintenance, and repair are more easily done. Having a common run for each to lay out, service, with access, makes for a better home off road. What we need are methods to protect them rather than throwing them behind the cabinets and furniture. Like Airstream building frames like airplane fuselage, wr should be using computer and space shuttle tech - ways and trays - to route our critical supplies with the attention they deserve, rather than hiding them as if they are an embarrassment.

I bought the kit to contain and manage our wall mounted tv cables. It cleans up that clutter and directs it where its needed. I can see that being used from the access box to the last USB power port in a trailer. Run it half way up the wall -above counter tops, below cabinets. Waterlines there would suffer a lot less from freezing and road conditions, too.

With red and blue decor, the pex lines would coordinate well. ; ) Well ok, you could run some covers over them.
So you are saying bare wire in trays + wago. I guess wago are the least tool-intensive connector. Any length of wire could be field repaired with almost any other length of wire. That's pretty interesting, actually.

I'm not too worried about immersion-proof connections. If the house wire gets wet, I'm expecting a lot more problems than "my reading light doesn't work".
 

SDDiver5

Expedition Leader
I'm starting to plan my house electrical. Thinking about things like lights, fans, etc... I would like each source of draw to have a removable connector between it and the main wiring run installed in the camper wall. I'm trying to figure out the best connector system to go with. I think there is probably a better system than the old school crimp-on spade or bullet connectors I can get at o'reilly.

Cars use Molex connectors, folks building campers online like to use wago. I've also seen deutsch, and there is a ton of various pinned connectors available on Amazon.

I am aware of voltage and current specs on connectors and plan to use the "right" connector for the load.

What have you used? what did you like?
I use Deutsch connectors for when I need to wire anything. Can't stand the connectors that comes with Baja Designs lights so I always cut them off and use the Duetsch. Have used them for a few things on my truck. Nice tight fit. Takes longer than your average connector but feels stronger. Easy to get a large quantity of them on amazon.
 

jonyjoe101

Adventurer
I been using the xt60 connectors for over 10 years, use them on everything including my 30 amp tire inflator, they make a solid connection. Recently I found the flush mount xt60 on amazon (10x 10 dollars) these make for a more professional installation, the connectors themselves you can also find on ebay. There are some knockoff brand xt60 connectors which do work also but are more stiff to connect/disconnect, the amass brand are the original and work perfect every time.
You have to solder the wires to them which isn't a big deal for me but some people prefer crimping type connectors. I recommend use the pure copper wire 12 or 14 gauge on them, there is some pure copper that is tin color which I find doesnt solder so well. Stay away from the cheap copper clad wire, that eventually corrodes.
a xt60 flush.jpg
 

jonyjoe101

Adventurer
For low amp connections like lights, small fans etc less than 5 amps I been using 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors. These are cheap and are more convenient (I buy on ebay). Before I was using the small 2 wire jst connectors but those can be inserted backwards which I did and it ruined one of my fans.

a small 55 21 connectors.jpg
 
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fourfa

Observer
+1 Anderson connectors. I also have and really like the Powerwerx crimping set. These have become standard in the ham radio world and for good reason.
 

slomatt

Adventurer
Another +1 for Anderson connectors and the proper crimper. I use these in multiple places on my truck and have never had a failure. Make sure you get real Anderson connectors and not the knock offs that are available.
 

Shawn686

Observer
FWIW HF is now carrying a "lever locking wire terminal", UL listed, that accepts 20 to 10 ga wire, 25 asst in a small case, half the price of the German brand. 2,3, and 5 wire.

I can run that in a flexible conduit under the trailer frame with the wire blocks inside watertite boxes. It will make wiring much easier and robust with none of the heat shrink crimping which apparently failed in a few short months. The trailer needs paint and updating, plus mods, too.

Just FYI if you look on the actual lever terminal it states only 20 to 12 gauge. I would suggest not going over what is on the terminal it self. I don't know if it was just a miss print on the box or what, just check your terminals if you go that route

Shawn
 

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