Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Once again, not the case with traditional bearings. A quick shot of grease and retorque doesnt even require removing the wheel. Even if you are going all the way down to races, still dont have to remove the spindle. And in a pinch all you need is a hammer and a few punches to do so.
Around here (far from so-cal) its pretty routine for unit bearings to go in less than 75k. Lots of gravel roads, snow, ice, deicer…. Rough roads and contamination. All plays into it. And they simple do not last.
How exactly are you getting a 'quick shot' of grease into pretty much any traditional wheel bearing setup, specifically the inner bearing? Once contaminated, you have to completely strip things down to the spindle to repack the wheel bearings. I have never seen a grease port on any 4x4 application front axle with traditional wheel bearings. To just repack the inner bearing, you have to replace the spindle seal. The only hack I have seen that actually works for the inner bearing ( if just adding grease to an existing packed bearing ) is using a long thin grease needle to carefully get around the seal inbetween each roller ( and that requires completely removing the bearing hub ).
Colorado here. My 2007 F350 has 160k+ miles and is still on the stock unit bearings. Still tight as the day they where new. We have lots of gravel roads, snow, ice, road spray, etc. I've actually had more issues with the traditional rear axle bearing setup.....I've had to replace the spindle seals on both sides along with the parking brake backing plate on the passenger side.
P.S. You are missing the point about the spindle to knuckle interface. With both systems, you have to remove the spindle or unit bearing to access anything deeper like a front axle shaft ( which is FAR more likely to fail than any wheel bearing in an 'overlanding' off-road application ). On pretty much any open knuckle 4wd solid front axle you cannot pull the knuckle off without getting the front spindle ( or unit bearing ) out of the knuckle....then the shaft, then you can get the knuckle off the ball joints. The only one I have seen be able to cheat that is closed knuckle toyota axles.....and even that is a pain in the rear. Plan on pulling the spindle or unit bearing. It's worth the time to get a smear of anti-seize on those mating surfaces if you ever have the front axle apart. With a traditional setup, you also have to pull the spindle to replace the inner spindle bearing that rides on the axle shaft and it's seal too....all part of good maintenance.