Jwestpro
Explorer
I'm glad you admitted it so I don't have to feel bad saying your tire and rim damage issues have been most likely due to driver input....
that and dumb choice of a C load tire )) Gosh I didn't opt for C's on my trailer LOL
Cooper STT Pro for my LR3
- Thread starter DiscoNels
- Start date
I'm glad you admitted it so I don't have to feel bad saying your tire and rim damage issues have been most likely due to driver input....
that and dumb choice of a C load tire )) Gosh I didn't opt for C's on my trailer LOL
Jwestpro
Explorer
I looked at the Coopers too but...we all know there are those who buy BFG, those who want to, and those who wish they did
In all seriousness, I want to say if you're going to try the "it really does fit better" plan, give some thought to the KM2 in 255/80x17 like I showed you on my test fits. If I were on the east coast or in Hawaii or didn't travel as far, I'd have gotten them instead of the somewhat problematic 285/70x18 which are a true 34" and no less.
Without the fender liners in, there's no rubbing LOL. Liners are still out for easy access while being sure no adjustments to the suspension work are needed. Today I replaced the 2nd fuel tank external pump, filter, lines and better stainless hose clamps and redid some wiring connections.
DiscoNels
Adventurer
I'm glad you admitted it so I don't have to feel bad saying your tire and rim damage issues have been most likely due to driver input....
If read properly my comment has nothing to do with my driving style. To answer that question, "as slow as needed, fast as necessary". I'd agree on the poor (not dumb) choice of C load tire, but back then I had NO idea about the differences. I literally looked at the Johnson Rod website as to which tires fit the LR3 and rolled with the coolest looking, best reviewed tire. I've had people witness rocks tearing at my rims and it had nothing to do with speed, it was just placement of the rock next to wheel as I passed by. Up in Northern MN in the iron range areas the rocks are notoriously sharp and it doesn't take much to get a rim or sidewall.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Same in Hawaii. Lava rock placement is not really an available option when they are covered by a foot of mud! They are like razor blades on sidewalls and jack-hammers to wheels. Part of the terrain in some areas that can't always be avoided.
Yep, the sierras have their share of rocks as well. Granted, my Coopers survived the Rubicon in pretty good shape but the last trip, which didn't include anything extreme, put a serious hurt on them.
Still, I've not seen that sort of wheel damage. I'm going to chalk that up to a combination of C rated tire, possibly too low air pressure, amd maybe some hard use. Regardless, it's another reason to shop for E rated tires on these rigs.
Still, I've not seen that sort of wheel damage. I'm going to chalk that up to a combination of C rated tire, possibly too low air pressure, amd maybe some hard use. Regardless, it's another reason to shop for E rated tires on these rigs.
Jwestpro
Explorer
"dumb" was a poor choice of words on my part but your comment regarding Dukes of Hazard and broken end links sure sounded like it's at least partially driving style. Basically it's mostly the driver causing things. I've had my fair share of undesirable moments.
How are your sliders working with the air compressor? I had to make some changes when the compressor was changed due to shape differences. As it is now though the lower section they made isn't necessary since I moved mine up and forward.
Have you had your lr3 weighed lately? There's a way to calculate ideal psi for highway travel.
DiscoNels
Adventurer
I'm still using a Hitachi compressor so don't have any fitment issues with the sliders. I did recently weigh my truck and it came in at 7k lbs so add some gas, two people, and some gear and I'm around 7500 lbs. How would one calculate the optimal tire pressure for that, I'd like to know.
Here's a basic summery pinched from the 4wp website:
The tire maker defines the ideal tire pressure for loads of various sizes. You can get the chart for your tire from your tire maker, a tire shop, or online. A less accurate alternative would be a generic chart from the Tire and Rim Association. These recommendations are available in the most popular sizes, but the stated pressures are not specific to your tire.
Weighing your truck. The next step is to obtain the front and rear weight of your truck. Do not estimate or assume that your loaded truck weighs the same as it did when it rolled off the lot. You'll get a more accurate result by packing your equipment onto the truck, filling the gas tanks, and even inviting some passengers to come with you to the scales.
Scales are typically available at scrap yards, recycling centers, landfills, and, of course, truck stops. You need to determine the amount of weight on your front tires, and then, separately, the amount of weight on your rear tires. If there's a race shop near you, you may be able to use its portable scales to get these weights quickly.
At a truck stop, you'll have to take three different weights. First, drive up and stop when only the front tires are on the scale. Record the weight. Next, drive your truck forward until all tires are on the scales. Take another reading. Lastly, drive off the scales so that only your rear tires are being weighed. If you've done it right, the sum of the front and rear tire readings should be roughly equal to the total truck weight. You may learn that your truck carries more weight on the front than on the rear. This isn't that uncommon with pickups.
Next, divide the weight on your front tires by two to get the weight on each tire. Do the same with your rear tire weight.
Finally, consult your load/inflation chart again. Round the calculated weight up to the nearest tire pressure and add another 10%.
Check your results. To check your results, you can measure the tires and add pressure to balance them. Before you measure, make sure your truck is parked on flat ground. Then, along the centerline, measure the distance between the ground and the edge of the wheel on all four tires. As noted, if there are differences, add pressure to even things out. The profiles should be almost the same from front to rear.
The advantage of this method is that you should end up with the optimal pressure. Optimal means you are balancing fuel efficiency, the quality of your ride, handling and braking performance, and uniformity of tread wear.
This disadvantage of this method is that it's tedious and could give you the wrong answer if you weigh or calculate incorrectly.