Corax's 1st gen RN61 4runner
- Thread starter corax
- Start date
corax
Explorer
Thanks! Being unemployed (soon to change) I have some time on my hands. I just wanted to condense a few of my previous write-ups into one thread in case the ideas are of use to anyone else.
corax
Explorer
22RE polyurethane engine mount
thanks, just in time for another one
I don't claim to have figured this one out on my own, I heard about from a guy that did this on his lifted, long travel early 80's Celica. I haven't, however, seen anyone else write it up so it's worth a few minutes to spread the word about a $20 polyurethane engine mount. It's an Energy Suspension GM transmission mount, part number 3.1108 (R or G for red or black). Before I ordered one I measured the stock 22RE engine mount and found it nearly identical. While I don't have a 22RE in my truck anymore I did reuse the 22RE mounts, so this will work on any 22R or 22RE. This might also work for other applications, so hear are the measurements so you can see if it will fit.
Note the interlock that will prevent the mount from pulling completely apart if the polyurethane fails. Only the center hole is needed and the supplied bolt is just about the same size as the stud on the factory rubber mount.
Installation is pretty simple, here's the package I got in the mail. It should be noted that there's a flat piece of anodized metal with 2 holes that comes with it, this needs to go under the mount to line everything up a bit better and provides some kind of preload to the bushing.
I only replaced the driver side mount since this is the one that's under tension, and most likely to tear, when driving forward. 2 bolts (14mm wrench) to the mount pad and 1 nut (17mm) on the engine bracket is all that's holding the old one in. Of course, the engine has to be jacked up a bit to get the old one out, but the new one goes in much easier since there's no stud that has to go through the engine bracket. Also, I heard that the corners of the mount ears might have to be filed down to sit on the factory pad, but I didn't have to file anything to get all the holes to line up. The bolt for the center hole of the engine bracket comes with the Energy Suspension piece along with the appropriate lock and flat washer. If you want, you can use the stock metal cover over top of the mount, but polyurethane is oil and gas resistant so it's not necessary.
I took if for a drive and didn't notice any engine vibrations from the stiffer mount, but then again my inline 6 is a pretty smooth running engine.
thanks, just in time for another one
I don't claim to have figured this one out on my own, I heard about from a guy that did this on his lifted, long travel early 80's Celica. I haven't, however, seen anyone else write it up so it's worth a few minutes to spread the word about a $20 polyurethane engine mount. It's an Energy Suspension GM transmission mount, part number 3.1108 (R or G for red or black). Before I ordered one I measured the stock 22RE engine mount and found it nearly identical. While I don't have a 22RE in my truck anymore I did reuse the 22RE mounts, so this will work on any 22R or 22RE. This might also work for other applications, so hear are the measurements so you can see if it will fit.
Note the interlock that will prevent the mount from pulling completely apart if the polyurethane fails. Only the center hole is needed and the supplied bolt is just about the same size as the stud on the factory rubber mount.
Installation is pretty simple, here's the package I got in the mail. It should be noted that there's a flat piece of anodized metal with 2 holes that comes with it, this needs to go under the mount to line everything up a bit better and provides some kind of preload to the bushing.
I only replaced the driver side mount since this is the one that's under tension, and most likely to tear, when driving forward. 2 bolts (14mm wrench) to the mount pad and 1 nut (17mm) on the engine bracket is all that's holding the old one in. Of course, the engine has to be jacked up a bit to get the old one out, but the new one goes in much easier since there's no stud that has to go through the engine bracket. Also, I heard that the corners of the mount ears might have to be filed down to sit on the factory pad, but I didn't have to file anything to get all the holes to line up. The bolt for the center hole of the engine bracket comes with the Energy Suspension piece along with the appropriate lock and flat washer. If you want, you can use the stock metal cover over top of the mount, but polyurethane is oil and gas resistant so it's not necessary.
I took if for a drive and didn't notice any engine vibrations from the stiffer mount, but then again my inline 6 is a pretty smooth running engine.
expeditionist
Observer
Dude... :drool:
Toyotero
Explorer
Wow, that's an awesome switch panel... I guess you don't take the top off much?
corax
Explorer
So, I know Toyota manual trans aren't the quietest transmissions, and I know what the typical input bearing noise sounds like (in neutral, clutch pedal up). However, recently I started to notice a new noise in 5th gear. I also noticed that the shifter will distinctly move straight forward about 1/2" when I get on the gas, and it moves the same way rearward when I get off. It's a very "notchy" type of movement and it only does it in 5th gear, so I don't think it's anything to do with drivetrain movement or mounts. What I think is happening is the countershaft bearings are worn allowing the countershaft to move forward and back just a little bit depending on whether it's under load or on decel. Since the 5th gear synchro is the only one on the countershaft, that is why the shifter itself is moving - shaft moves, making synchro and shift linkage move with it. Immediately before my recent move to Oregon I drained the trans fluid through a paint filter and didn't find any metal, but I wasn't hearing this noise or seeing the shifter move at that point either.
It's not engine noise in the video . . .
W56b 5th gear noise
It's a shame because, while it's 4 years out of warranty, it only has 50k miles on it and still shifts great. I found a few local ads for used transmissions, so that might be the route I need to take. Does anyone know someone in Oregon willing to lend a trans jack for the day? I was thinking about buying this one, but I really don't have anywhere to put it after I'm done. Any idea where I could rent on for a day or two?
It's not engine noise in the video . . .
W56b 5th gear noise
It's a shame because, while it's 4 years out of warranty, it only has 50k miles on it and still shifts great. I found a few local ads for used transmissions, so that might be the route I need to take. Does anyone know someone in Oregon willing to lend a trans jack for the day? I was thinking about buying this one, but I really don't have anywhere to put it after I'm done. Any idea where I could rent on for a day or two?
corax
Explorer
I wish it was just the shifter seat, I installed Marlin's shifter seat when I first bought the truck and had to replace the trans. This noise has been getting steadily worse and got real bad today - it almost sounds like a dog box transmission, or what the trans sounds like when it's in reverse
The engine is actually pretty quiet in the video, most of that noise is the transmission. On the plus side I found a local equipment rental place where I can get a trans jack for $18/day, just waiting to hear back from a few ads on Craigslist for the trans. I'd love to go with a Marlin trans, but they usually have a few weeks backlog and I can't wait that long.
The engine is actually pretty quiet in the video, most of that noise is the transmission. On the plus side I found a local equipment rental place where I can get a trans jack for $18/day, just waiting to hear back from a few ads on Craigslist for the trans. I'd love to go with a Marlin trans, but they usually have a few weeks backlog and I can't wait that long.
PirateMcGee
Expedition Leader
when I dropped my tranny I just bolted a piece of steel to my regular floor jack and used ratchet straps to hold er steady
Toyotero
Explorer
I had to change out the transmission in my 88 V6 4Runner (later sold) a few years ago and I didn't want to buy a jack that I'd probably never use again, so I used a jack like this:
and I just welded two u-shaped pieces of 1/2 inch rebar to the round plate to hold the transmission. It took some effort to get it rotated to the correct position to install, but it worked well.
and I just welded two u-shaped pieces of 1/2 inch rebar to the round plate to hold the transmission. It took some effort to get it rotated to the correct position to install, but it worked well.
corax
Explorer
That's a good idea with the floor jack. I did a bunch of searching though and found out that I could rent a trans jack with the tilt tray for $18/day from the local equipment rental place. Now I just have to find a decent used trans so I can keep driving while I send my current trans to Marlin for a rebuild (currently working on a 6-8 week backlog since their trans guy had surgery)
Magnum Johnson
Observer
For driveway transmission work a modified floor jack and some tie straps have always worked for me. I really like the LED lighting in the cab too, any pictures of it at night?
corax
Explorer
I got another tip about using 2 ratchet straps around the frame rails and under the trans to drop it out of the truck. Oddly enough, the first used trans I called on is being held by a company that does 5VZ swaps into older Toyotas - never heard of them, a place called Toy Only Swaps. So I might be running over there to take a look today and grab a transmission.
I tried to take night pics of the interior lighting, but they never seem to do it justice + the slow shutter speed with my point and shoot makes it a blurry mess without a tripod. If tonight is dry I'll give it one last shot.
I tried to take night pics of the interior lighting, but they never seem to do it justice + the slow shutter speed with my point and shoot makes it a blurry mess without a tripod. If tonight is dry I'll give it one last shot.
corax
Explorer
first used trans made more noise than the original, so I'm hoping the guy I bought it from gives me back my money when I take it back tomorrow - he seemed cool enough and already said he'd make it right. This allowed me to take my Marlin Trans out to have new bearings put in at a trans shop - 3 hrs labor + $150 bearing kit = $20 less than I spent on the used trans . Since the rain finally cleared up enough to work on it I got the old one out yesterday and the new one in place this morning :wings:
BTW -- 2 ratchet straps, 2 u-joint sockets, 3 deep sockets, various 3/8" drive extensions, 2 ratchets and 1 wrench was all I needed. Didn't even have to jack up the truck to get the trans out :coffeedrink:
. Since the rain finally cleared up enough to work on it I got the old one out yesterday and the new one in place this morning :wings:
BTW -- 2 ratchet straps, 2 u-joint sockets, 3 deep sockets, various 3/8" drive extensions, 2 ratchets and 1 wrench was all I needed. Didn't even have to jack up the truck to get the trans out :coffeedrink: