Cost of a D1 TDI swap?

MuleShoer

Adventurer
I live on the north side of Big Walker Mountain...go north on int 77 off int 81 about 10 miles then head east 7 miles I am near Dismal falls. I usually head to mount rogers with the mules great country. where you out of?

I looked at the 200 TDI swap but I don't really have a good supply chain for finding parts. I thought the 300 tdi drivetrain had lenght issues



Where in the south west Virginia mountains are you? I drive my Disco down to White Top and Damascus sometimes.

Steve
 

piper109

Observer
I live on the north side of Big Walker Mountain...go north on int 77 off int 81 about 10 miles then head east 7 miles I am near Dismal falls. I usually head to mount rogers with the mules great country. where you out of?

I looked at the 200 TDI swap but I don't really have a good supply chain for finding parts. I thought the 300 tdi drivetrain had lenght issues

I live in West Jefferson NC which is a little south of you. I know Big Walker mountain tunnel, been thru on the way to Bluefield in my Railroad days.

Its my understanding that the 300tdi will fit if you change the bellhousing on the R360 for a shorter version. I'm not a series enthusiast so its just hearsay.
I have a friend with a Daihatsu diesel (non turbo) that was pulled out of a rusty III series that should drop into his IIa but I doubt if he will ever do it. If you are interested, I will ask him. Its not very powerful, about 70 HP I think but it was a popular swap in the UK at one time.

Steve
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
The only parts I brought in that I ended up not needing were the transfer case (used the one off the V8), the expansion bottle and some EGR parts that I chose not to use. The problem I see in having other people choose and send you parts is that they will likely send you Britpart stuff which sometimes has a bad reputation. I bought some new parts while I was still in the UK and put them into the same packing crate. Fortunately the rad was only a few months old.
I'm not a businessman and I guess I dont know any donor/dealers here or in the UK and rather than buy a pig in a poke, I chose to see the beast and drive it round the field, albeit after I had technically bought it. I was not on tenderhooks wondering what would be in the box when it arrived. That way I was relying on my own experience and abilities and had only myself to blame if things didn't pan out.
I grew up working on a shoe string and I suppose I still tend to.

Steve

Wasn't trying to say it doesn't work as there are exceptions. Generally those exceptions don't take into account the time spent which in most peoples worlds does have some sort of cost.

Your version of how to obtain a low budget Tdi is really commendable and I'll bet it was a pile of fun in the process as well as ultimately quite satisfying.

I do have the advantage of being a business and having some good resources as well as being able to source parts. I don't let anyone "choose" parts for me either.
As a business that does a fair amount of conversions and diesel repair etc I do get a little annoyed at the frequent misinformation and or lack of useful and accurate information that I see in regard to diesel conversions in particular regarding the cost (and benefits).
 

MuleShoer

Adventurer
Junkyddog11 & Rovertrader
I am quite aware that "Anything" is possible given enough time and money. Care to share any tribal knowledge on a 300tdi swap into a series?


If this proves interesting I will start a new thread or go to a PM, I don't want to hijack this thread just close on the previous staements
Pete
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
The basics are that you need to make room for the extra length. Use a 200tdi flywheel housing and a short bellhousing r380. the transmission will need to be moved back about 4-5 inches and lowered about 1 1/2 inches to get a better angle for the very short rear driveshaft. The radiator support will need to be substantially modified to allow the radiator to be moved as far forward as possible. A power steering conversion is highly recommended......in fact it may be necessary (haven't tried without this) as the steering gear all gets in the way of the custom radiator intercooler. The battery will need to be relocated (it can stay underhood if desired).
It's a ton of work and much custom fab work. To be honest I have not done this to a IIA and am basing this advice on Series/V8 conversion's which I have done and which take up slightly more room (length) due to the adapter (V8 to Series / short R380)
You can save much work by running the tdi naturally aspirated.I have not done this but have read about guys in UK doing it. Would save some considerable work and I wouldn't hesitate to run it with the Series trans
The 2.5 na that Rover trader referred to is really almost a bolt in as it does not require much change at all other than some minor mounting and clearance issues with the battery and a slight alteration to the exhaust as well as a return line to the fuel tank if you are replacing a petrol motor. Use the Series trans.

East Coast Rovers has done a 300tdi into an SIII which is a bit easier due to not having to deal with the head lights in the radiator support but still not "easy". I'm sure you can find this swap on their site.
 

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
I agree totally on the 2.5 NAD, as that is the route we chose to avoid spending a ton of time and $$- and it is about as bombproof as it gets. On the other hand, the very little gains obtained going to a 300 vs a 200 is not the least cost effective. The short bellhousing R380 alone is like finding hens teeth, or empty the wallet on a new one. Lastly, the 200 fits same as a 2.5NAD. One last pearl- avoid at all cost the 2.5TD, usually considered the worst motor Rover ever did.

Mule- feel free to pm if you like, or give me a ring. I would steer you away from the 300 as the cost/benefit ratio is highly skewed in the wrong direction. And, if you feel up to a ride- feel free to come by and drive the 200 in my XD, and even the 2.5NAD in my father-in-laws S-IIa.
 

tacr2man

Adventurer
my 10c worth from other side of the pond , have to agree better buying a runner , they can be had cheap , esp if bought private , like this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-LAND...0261125?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item43acb39d05

be aware when buying an auto they early ones were just mechanical injection, no different from in defender . the later ones were still mech inj but were edis , which had computer controlled timing etc , these were about 10bhp higher output , flyby wire accelerator pedal . These later ones you need the alarm immobilizer unit and key fob to make operate , ie the computer wont work unless it gets the ok signal from the immob unit .
I recently fitted a 300tdi edc auto into a 90 for my daughter , its not that difficult to sort the wiring and it had the bonus of having immobiliser when finished .
The crossmember fits no probs from disco to 90 and the engine with auto box lines up same as with a V8 . The rad is in same position as in disco, so engine oil cooller pipes are right length. It would be a good idea to get new rad at same time as quite often the fins rot off in UK due winter salt , this quite often lleads to o/heating at speed on motorway having had no probs normal running around . The 300 tdi auto are 1.2 :1 ratio and work OK in 90 with 285/75x16 tyres (just) as they are set up for discovery size tyre sizes. 1.4 box in a disco would be bit low with standard tyres . the V8 autobox change point etc are wrong for a 200/300 tdi , so best get tdi autobox HTSH

I agree best way to ship would be chop down , i.e. cut chassis behind transfer box, roof off at bonnet(hood) level, no hood ,doors, front outerfenders, front axle. That way you will get anything you possibly need .:wings:
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
, the 200 fits same as a 2.5NAD. .

errrrr.....not really. It has the flywheel housing with the right bolt pattern to fit a Series trans or the short bellhousing R380/LT77 (the reason you'd use a 200tdi flywheel housing to fit a 300tdi to those transmissions) but other than that it actually fits much more like the 300tdi with all the added work/cost. Also running a 200tdi (or a 300) in front of a Series trans is really a little much (it'll work but is definitely pushing it unless you go NA) hence the suggested use the R380 (or LT77).

Not trying to be disagreeable Dale. I'm actually laid up at home and bored out of my scull keeping busy spreading my wealth of semi useless info around the internet. I'll be able to get back to work in a couple of days........phew....LOL
 
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Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
no worries, I always go with the LT77(or 380) and LT230, removing all the Series stuff, but that is just me.
Hope you recoup well and quickly!!
 

Red90

Adventurer
You can still get brand new stripped 300TDI engines and they are not that expensive. If I were to do one now, that would be the safe route. Get the rest of the bits from a UK junkyard and away you go.
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
You can still get brand new stripped 300TDI engines and they are not that expensive. If I were to do one now, that would be the safe route. Get the rest of the bits from a UK junkyard and away you go.

I'm sure buying the parts that are the most likely to be junk....the injection pump and the turbo.......from a "UK Junkyard" is the "safe route". It works if you have good connections and someone who is willing to strip what is most likely a good motor if the rest of the parts are any good. There is a lot of parts missing on a stripped motor. I just can't imagine this as a very cost effective way to do things.....but then we usually disagree on just this point LOL.

Hey I might be out in Crowsnest pass area this fall racing motorbikes. Is that near you? Have to get together for a beer or something eh?
 

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
The Series is a coiler, and we changed to Disco axles and stayed fulltime, but I have done an Atlas to allow 2wd also, but never converted the LT230 to part time, though I am sure it can be done.

NOTE: The Atlas has to be the one for Toyota, cannot recall the name, but it allows both right side diffs
 

mongosd2

Adventurer
Matt's 65hundski is a pretty good estimate...Even with a well maintained donor drivetrain you're looking at 1k worth of preventative maintenance to make it a viable daily driver and another 1k to make it happen...and that's doing it yourself
 

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