CountryRoamer (DIY Hard-Side Truck Camper) Build Thread

ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member
@1000arms I'm also reconsidering using composite panels instead of sandwiched foam-board. I'm having a tough time finding a place that sells panels, though. My Google skills are failing me. Most of it is super thin veneer kind of stuff.

Is there a source that people here use (beyond Total Composites, who sells prefab shells, of course)?
 

1000arms

Well-known member
@1000arms You mentioned 3" thick walls above. I had been thinking 2" thick walls: 1.5" thick rigid foam board sandwiched between 1/4" thick marine-grade plywood. Probably thicker for the floor.

At a minimum, that seems like it would be far better insulated than our commercial travel trailer. No?
I mentioned 3" thick walls only to keep the math simple regarding counter/cabinet depth. :)

For what you are doing, I suggest (about) 2" thick framework, 2" thick rigid foam insulation, and 1/4" plywood skins.

A bit better insulation, a much stronger frame if 2" x 2" is used instead of 1.5" x 1.5", and a bit more meat for any screw/bolt point-loads you might inflict on your camper. :cool:

Cutting 3/4" plywood in to strips 2" wide allows one to build up the floor framework with overlapping strips. One could use butt-joints, or even "scarf" them.

The same thing could be done for the walls and roof.

3 pieces of 3/4" plywood are a bit over 2" thick, allowing 2" foam to fit well (with all the adhesives involved).

 
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ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member
I mentioned 3" thick walls only to keep the math simple regarding counter/cabinet depth. :)

For what you are doing, I suggest (about) 2" thick framework, 2" thick rigid foam insulation, and 1/4" plywood skins.

A bit better insulation, a much stronger frame if 2" x 2" is used instead of 1.5" x 1.5", and a bit more meat for any screw/bold point-loads you might inflict on your camper. :cool:

Cutting 3/4" plywood in to strips 2" wide allows one to build up the floor framework with overlapping strips. One could use butt-joints, or even "scarf" them.

The same thing could be done for the walls and roof.

3 pieces of 3/4" plywood are a bit over 2" thick, allowing 2" foam to fit well (with all the adhesives involved).


Ah, interesting! I'd been thinking I'd be using 2x2's for the framing. Never occurred to me to cut and/or glue plywood to size for that.
 

1000arms

Well-known member
@1000arms I'm also reconsidering using composite panels instead of sandwiched foam-board. I'm having a tough time finding a place that sells panels, though. My Google skills are failing me. Most of it is super thin veneer kind of stuff.

Is there a source that people here use (beyond Total Composites, who sells prefab shells, of course)?
Some people are making their own panels.

Keep in mind that the F-550 chassis cab is a common truck to mount a body/bed/... on, so you might want to look at commercial insulated "van bodies" that you could use as a base.

Searching this forum can be a bit of a pain, so, you might want to use your favorite search engine and search for (Your topic "expeditionportal.com") or (Your topic "expeditionportal.com/forum").

Make sure to put the ExPo part in quotes, and put it after your search terms.
 

1000arms

Well-known member
Ah, interesting! I'd been thinking I'd be using 2x2's for the framing. Never occurred to me to cut and/or glue plywood to size for that.
Doing so would also allow you to build in some 3/4" plywood panels where you need to put holes in the exterior for intakes, outtakes, portals, windows, ... .

Just use the panels to bridge a couple of "studs", "joists", or "rafters" as part of the framework buildup.
 

ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member
Priced this build out this week, and realistically, I'm probably looking at around $100k (roughly) once you factor in the truck.

I think that's very reasonable considering what poorly built motorhomes of a comparable size sell for, but also probably a bit beyond what I can spend this year. I'm not wondering if a mid-sized Skoolie might hit a lot of the wish list items are a lower budget.

Of course, doing a school bus reno comes with it's own set of challenges...
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
If you don't need 4WD, a Skoolie is a good choice to build out. So many size options you can find the one that fits your needs. There are some really good builds on YouTube
 

ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member
If you don't need 4WD, a Skoolie is a good choice to build out. So many size options you can find the one that fits your needs. There are some really good builds on YouTube

Absolutely! Though, from reading through the various how-to articles and watching tutorials, it seems a lot more daunting in many ways because...
  • Each bus is a unique snowflake
  • Retitling and insurance are a huge PITA
  • None of the walls are square
I really wish the truck market wasn't so insane right now. I'd be happy to buy something used, especially since with a flatbed camper you can always just move it to another truck.
 

1000arms

Well-known member
Priced this build out this week, and realistically, I'm probably looking at around $100k (roughly) once you factor in the truck.

I think that's very reasonable considering what poorly built motorhomes of a comparable size sell for, but also probably a bit beyond what I can spend this year. I'm not wondering if a mid-sized Skoolie might hit a lot of the wish list items are a lower budget.

Of course, doing a school bus reno comes with it's own set of challenges...
I've read that people ordering a truck and waiting for it to be built are getting much better pricing than those buying a new (or used) truck off the lot. (You may already be aware of this.)

The ability to simply switch chassis cab trucks as needed is quite useful.

I know you want to build a truck camper rather than tow a camper trailer, but considering your financial realization, perhaps you might (for the time being) consider a double axle utility trailer and a DIY camper?

Keep things simple. Water jugs instead of tanks, LED headlamps, propane stove, coolers with extra insulation, and lots of wipes and sponge baths.

Avoid really hot camping unless you have installed a small 120V AC and have access to 120V outlets. Avoid really cold camping unless everyone sleeps with fresh water to keep it from freezing. :cool:

Although lumber and plywood are much more expensive than a few years ago, building and using a camper like this might get you using it quite quickly and relatively cheaply. It would also be a bit of an experiment to see what works for you.

When you do build and use your truck camper, you could also pull your trailer camper if you want the extra room (or adult privacy).

Depending on the age of your kids, they might be interested in using the trailer camper at home (if it is safe enough for them to do so).

...............................

It was a number of years ago, and the plywood and Rustoleum paint may have changed, but, you might find the following interesting:

A while back, I designed and built a small camper trailer to tow behind my Jeep. 45 degree angle at the back for departure angle. Same size rims and tires as on my Jeep. Same track-width. Torsion axle stubs. I welded up my frame with a receiver hitch front and rear on the trailer. Pintle ring inserted in to the front receiver on the trailer. Pintle hook in the rear receiver on my Jeep. Tongue long enough that combined with the pintle hook-ring setup, I could turn with the tongue more than 90 degrees from straight ahead towing, without Jeep body to trailer body contact. The trailer body was built out of 2x layed flat and 3/8" plywood, with 3/4" plywood floor. Silicone on every joint and sheetrock screws. No insulation or interior sheathing, so very easy to see how all the joints held up. I painted the outside with Rustoleum white metal paint. I towed it across the US. It spent a lot of time in the Pacific Northwest rain (and some snow), but had no leaks when I sold it 5 years later. :)

I "glued and screwed" every bit of the perimeter, on every panel, to something solid. The "glue" did the sealing and the screws pulled the panels tight and clamped them until the "glue" cured. I was careful to avoid pushing all of the "glue" out of the joints.

I painted multiple coats of Rustoleum metal paint (white) and let the ACX plywood soak up all it could, especially the edges. It was just ACX plywood from the store with the cheap orange buckets. :cool:

The camper trailer was easy and cheap to build and seal. :)
 
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ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member
@1000arms That's a really neat idea, though, honestly, I'll likely still with the travel trailer we already have for the time being.

Unless, of course, I can find one of those mythical $12k or less heavy duty trucks the people in those DIY YouTube videos talk about purchasing.
 

ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member
I'm currently trying to work out two things...

1. Epoxy and color

I think I'd ultimately like the exterior to have a "retro camper meets boat" kind of look: dark blue on the lower half, white on the upper, with the natural marine plywood as a horizontal "racing stripe" in the middle.

Do I use a waterproof paint first, then clear epoxy over it? Epoxy, then paint? Colored epoxy? Something else?

2. Attaching the camper to the flatbed

Would y'al recommend just a traditional tie-down system (like hapijac) attached to the flatbed side rails? Or should I look into a way to bolt it directly to the flatbed in a few places?
 

1000arms

Well-known member
I'm currently trying to work out two things...

1. Epoxy and color

I think I'd ultimately like the exterior to have a "retro camper meets boat" kind of look: dark blue on the lower half, white on the upper, with the natural marine plywood as a horizontal "racing stripe" in the middle.

Do I use a waterproof paint first, then clear epoxy over it? Epoxy, then paint? Colored epoxy? Something else? ...
See chapter 15 of "The Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction book".

West System (Epoxy) makes the PDF (of the entire book) available for free. See the link on:

 

1000arms

Well-known member
... 2. Attaching the camper to the flatbed

Would y'al recommend just a traditional tie-down system (like hapijac) attached to the flatbed side rails? Or should I look into a way to bolt it directly to the flatbed in a few places?
Although you have mentioned removing the camper to (occasionally) use the flatbed, I think you would be better served by planning to leave the camper "permanently" attached.

Doing so might let you (go through some steps and then) register your rig as a motorhome, which might reduce registration fees and/or insurance fees.

Doing so would make it easier to have a pass-through from truck to camper.
You might consider replacing the truck-cab's rear-window with an aluminum "frame". Essentially a piece of thick aluminum, with a hole cut out of it and a lip (for attaching a boot to your camper) welded on, that replaces your rear-window. When planning this, keep in mind that your rear-window (and windshield) are part of your rollover protection.

Doing so would allow you to bolt the camper body to the flatbed without having to worry about insects/water/... passing through the holes when dismounted.

While you are planning your under-flatbed boxes (for snowboards, tire chains, vented propane lockers, vented generator lockers, warm-weather water-jug lockers, ...), contact the manufacturer about also adding bolting points for your camper. It will likely be faster and cheaper than designing a fully custom flatbed.

If you want a pass-through, make sure to plan enough space in the "headache rack" of the flatbed.
 

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